HPR 010 Mono: Very Slow Build

[boredom.is.me]

It's really hard to get an actual idea of the color from a picture so I did do a little editing. The blue is a lot stronger than I wanted, but I do like it. If I absolutely had to leave it this color, I definitely wouldn't be disappointed.

[Tamelesstgr]

I like it

[boredom.is.me]

The actual line is the second string of tape. The nose will remain blue. There will essentially be two giant blocks of dark grey with a thick blue stripe between them. The blue center stripe will end where the hatch starts, so there will be a slight band of grey just in front of the tear drop. The tear drop along with most of the rear will remain mostly blue. The canopy decal as well as the latch "vent" area decal are carbon black vinyl. I'm still working out something for that massive blue area in front of the transom. I also have to decide whether the transom will be dark grey or white.

[TheShaddix]

Wow, that looks so good! The paint came out perfect. I really like that side view. Not sure about the striping on the nose, but that's personal preference.

[boredom.is.me]

Thank you sir. That first piece of tape should not be there. That was the line I was originally going to use, but realized that it wasn't nearly enough. Everything in front of the second strip will be blue.

I did finish the masking, except the transom area, but forgot to take pics. I'll post when I get home from work. The tape I was using is too wide to make a the required inside curve for the rear. The slanted stripe on the side is an even 42mm wide. I was thinking about having the same with in dark grey directly in front of the transom.

[TheShaddix]

It'll look great with a blue painted nose then. I have the same gray metallic paint you used, I really like it. I am guessing you grabbed blue metallic of the same type too? If that's the case, that is awesome paint. Are you using vinyl tape for those curved areas? if not, I would suggest you try it. That's all I use for mine.

Also, what are your plans for the clearcoat?

[boredom.is.me]

Slight misunderstanding (I think), when I said blue, I meant the greyish-blue that is already on it. I'm using Tamiya 6mm where I need to make curves and 12mm for the near straights. Tamiya also makes an 18mm. I would like to take it to a body shop for a proper automotive clear.

Slight hiccup due to a bit of negligence. I didn't realize that I put one heavy coat too many on the transom until it was too late. I got some runs to deal with, but that's no biggie. I'll sand on Friday with 500, 1000, and 2500. Hopefully the 2500 will get it smooth enough to not need a respray. If that doesn't work, then Ill just put the entire boat in a trash bag and spray just the transom.

The color I used is called "Black Metallic" but it's more of a darker gunmetal with a touch of bronze. It also has a metric fudge ton of glitter. It's dark but not as dark as the picture makes it. I'll get some better pics when the sun comes out.

[srislash]

I like that striping, thumbs up!!

[boredom.is.me]

I'm a little on the fence. I'm hoping it comes together better once the white bottom is exposed. It looked a bit better when I walked by it this morning.

One thing that really surprised me was the paint itself. When I peeled the masking tape, the from points on the grey actually completely lifted away like it was vinyl. It even peeled the grey-blue under rather away. I simply pressed it back down and kept going. Maybe I peeled too soon, but no other section did that.

[golfito]

Great!!

[boredom.is.me]

So it's actually quite dark. I kinda jumped off the deep end with this one, but I'm not entirely dissappointed. But now that it's done, I can get it in the water, which is what really counts.

[boredom.is.me]

Soooo... I said I would let it sit to see if it would grow on me. The longer it sat, the more I disliked it. I tried to strip it and that quickly turned into a disaster. Months went by with it in my room to the point where I got sick of having such a sweet hull going no where. I gave it a 90% sand job tonight. The damage came from the stripper I used. It began to eat into the gel coat surprisingly quick. Here is the result. The sides are covered in small pin holes. There is no actual damage to the boat itself, just the gel coat and of course any paint that was on there.

First thing is to completely finish the sanding. Once that is complete, the surface may still be slightly uneven due to the primer's sanding, but it won't be too off. Then I'll fill the pin holes along the sides and smooth it back down. After that, I'm going to visit a professional body shop to see if a thick primer can be applied to even out the slight layer differences from sanding. I'll give it one final sanding since the primer should be even and uniform. The last step would be a proper paint job. By that, I don't mean flames or lightning bolts. I simply mean from a shop.

For some reason, I'm leaning towards a burnt-ish copper-like orange. I still have all of my decals in both silver and white as well as a carbon decal for the windshield and "turbine" hatches. Because of that, the paint can't be too dark. Ideas?

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[fweasel]

I've always liked "simple is better" when it comes to paint work. You can play with vinyl stripes or graphics to break up large areas as needed which is obviously mush easier to work with and change.

[boredom.is.me]

Simple indeed, but I just don't want plain white or black.

It took me forever to do this. I was playing around with a bunch of different ideas and this is what I came up with.

I disliked the fact that Turnigy decided to put the capacitors so far from the ESC. I also had a little trouble soldering at first (wasn't using flux) and ended up just cutting the wire.

The end result has the original capacitors on some 12awg wire that also connects to the capacitor bank. The connectors going to the cap bank will be shortened and installed at a 90 degree angle.

It may not look like it, but the main power is a solid joint. The cap connection isn't as thorough as I didn't want to compromise the main joint. I can sleeve them together (black) or individually (red and black).

I'm also working on new light buckets. I just have to add connectors (and one resistor for red). The lights are controlled through the tx/rx and runs off of a 3.3v converter.

Also going to add an anti-spark through the balance connector. Both positive and negative will have resistance to completely stop current flow after initial connection.

[boredom.is.me]

Also, each light is color coded.