HPR 010 Mono: Very Slow Build

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  • boredom.is.me
    Senior Member
    • Jun 2009
    • 595

    #16
    The rudder is on the way.

    I started working on some of the mounting hardware. I don't seem to have any luck lately as all of my cuts have completely screwed up lately. The mounting face was the only piece I was able to salvage. I'll try again today. I still have to make a drill jig for the sides of the mount. That is what I'm really nervous above. I haven't done any side drilling yet.

    It has also been a week since I heard from Hans. I do a lot of things, but composite body work is not one of them. How do I fill in a 7"x1" recession in the side of the hull? I'm scared of it just peeling away. Quite a few other spots require heavy sanding and filler as well...
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    • Tamelesstgr
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • Jun 2014
      • 1516

      #17
      What are you using to machine the brackets, looks darn good by my standards.
      NEVER SATISFIED RACING
      Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6s

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      • boredom.is.me
        Senior Member
        • Jun 2009
        • 595

        #18
        Thanks. I'm using a CNC shark (which is an utter piece of crap). I tried to apply a two sided bevel which sort of worked. The alignment is very hard to achieve when flipping the model even though it's bolted down and designed as a mirror. It came out usable, but not nearly as nice as it should have been. I'm going to focus on making the other pieces in 1/8" before coming back to the mount.

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        • Espresso
          Senior Member
          • Jul 2011
          • 233

          #19
          Why is your hatch opening partially cut out? Did you opt it like this?

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          • StevenBryant
            Senior Member
            • Nov 2012
            • 359

            #20
            In Europe we fit flood chamber to self right the boat, I presume that's why it's not cut out on this boat.


            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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            • boredom.is.me
              Senior Member
              • Jun 2009
              • 595

              #21
              Originally posted by Espresso
              Why is your hatch opening partially cut out? Did you opt it like this?
              Not at all. The front edge is a safe 9mm at the most narrow part.

              Originally posted by StevenBryant
              In Europe we fit flood chamber to self right the boat, I presume that's why it's not cut out on this boat.


              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
              I didn't even think about that, but who would put a flood chamber on a boat like this?



              Here is the difference between a good day and a bad day. Now I just have to tap it. There will be one more similar piece for the rear strut supports. I'm hoping I can trade what I got for the matching set like what's in the picture, but I don't know if they even work on the mono.

              produkte_hpr_115_antrieb_1.jpg
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              • Tamelesstgr
                Fast Electric Addict!
                • Jun 2014
                • 1516

                #22
                Wow, that is quite a difference, I looked up that machine, it's not cheap, but is it tailored more towards woodworking?
                NEVER SATISFIED RACING
                Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6s

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                • boredom.is.me
                  Senior Member
                  • Jun 2009
                  • 595

                  #23
                  I have the original version which is no longer shown. The machine is made for very light duty work. Even hardwoods would stress it. I got this one for a steal, but if I could make my money back on a new build I would, but I can't afford to sink $2k into it with no return. The mark up on these machines are asinine. I'm sure I can build the Shark for $1000, but they want to charge $2,500 (or something like that). I get that they have design time and a few resources in it, but it's not something that calls for that extreme of a price. Not only that, but it was designed by engineers. I went to school for engineering and let me tell you that that is not good. Anyone who actually uses a tool will find it's flaws way quicker than a CAD program will. But I learned enough off of it to know what not to do.

                  I've been designing my own. Here are 1x2, 2x2, and 2x4, all of which actually exceed nominal travel by about 4" on x/y axis. Integrated vacuum table, proper spindle, proper ball screws, some day...

                  Ok I'm finished ranting.
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                  • boredom.is.me
                    Senior Member
                    • Jun 2009
                    • 595

                    #24
                    I have a lot to learn but you can be sure that I am. I'll probably redo the transom backing plate since I messed up the two upper holes on the transom side. All I need is to just put nuts, but I don't plan on half-@$$ing it.

                    I can also use the two "pass through" holes as a mounting platform for something else so we'll see.
                    I wanted to do this for a few reasons.
                    1) Everything will stay parallel during install.
                    2) It provides a better bond of clamp on the mounting points.
                    3) I shouldn't need lock nuts.

                    I will also cut 2mm depron gaskets to fill any gaps and help seal it.
                    Attached Files

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                    • Tamelesstgr
                      Fast Electric Addict!
                      • Jun 2014
                      • 1516

                      #25
                      Man that is slick, nice job on planning it out.
                      NEVER SATISFIED RACING
                      Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6s

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                      • boredom.is.me
                        Senior Member
                        • Jun 2009
                        • 595

                        #26
                        Thanks, I learned from you guys!

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                        • StevenBryant
                          Senior Member
                          • Nov 2012
                          • 359

                          #27
                          I didn't even think about that, but who would put a flood chamber on a boat like this?
                          [/QUOTE]

                          Somebody who want to race the boat in Europe or someone who wants the boat to self right



                          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                          • boredom.is.me
                            Senior Member
                            • Jun 2009
                            • 595

                            #28
                            Axel and I were talking on the side and he made a suggestion to use an outrunner to save weight. I do like the idea of an overall lighter build. He initially suggested the Scorpion 2300kv Watercooled on 5s. I want to stay on 6s though. There really aren't too many options though. I've narrowed it down to the Gartt HF500 1600kv (<favored) and the Turnigy T600 1400kv. I can't find the Suppo/Fightercat 3730 1580kv anywhere. I sent Jason (Fightercat) a message.

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                            • axel
                              Senior Member
                              • May 2007
                              • 127

                              #29
                              have a look here

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                              • boredom.is.me
                                Senior Member
                                • Jun 2009
                                • 595

                                #30
                                Thanks!

                                Man that sight is so sketchy, but I went ahead and ordered the "1850kv". I have no idea how long it will take, but I'm in no rush. The motors were originally $45 each from FC, but the total was $65 ($25 for shipping).

                                Any advice on what filler to use to fix the exterior of the hull? I'm scared of it just peeling away.

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