...
HPR 010 Mono: Very Slow Build
Collapse
X
-
-
Why do you need such large inlets? They look too big for the boat style and serve no real purpose. You could use a tiny brass tube connected to a plastic tube large enough to barely clear the steering cables. And for your previous dilemma, just drill out the drives, don't mess with the flex diameters. Do they at least spin a little in there or way too big? You could put the cable into a drill and just let it spin to break it in.Comment
-
I won't be using the pass throughs.
The shaft needs about .5mm worth of reaming. They aren't close to fitting as is. There is no forcing it in.Attached FilesComment
-
oh, i see. It's been a while since I used those. I'd definitely grind the cable down to make it fit. I'd use a drill on one end, wrap sandpaper around the other and just spin it so it's uniform. Also, I'd add some roughness on the inside of the shaft with sandpaper or a drill bit so you get a better bite.Comment
-
Got the motors! I weighed one of them at 300g.Comment
-
-
Ya, they're beefier than I was expecting.
In other news, I ordered the carbon, servo, couplers, and some connectors. The couplers are coming from China though.Comment
-
The ball links and mount for the servo arm went out for delivery on the 15th. Apparently it was forwarded and has been lost ever since. Aside from that, I have most of the hardware. I got 1/4" brass for the stuffing and will run it without the liner. I already bent it to shape. I just have to cut the middle (for a left and right) and trim to match the motor shafts. I got aluminum tubing in six different diameters. I'm supposed to be getting the carbon, servo, and connectors today (23rd), but highly doubt that. I have the cable as well. I knew it was going to be overkill but wow.
And there's my useless update...Comment
-
Thank you!
I do not mind the wait. The boat will not have it's maiden until the end of this year or the beginning of next year.
I got the 3mm carbon parts done. The four longer cutouts on the battery tray are not perfect so I will finish those up by hand. The endmill took the easy way and deflected to the open inner region during the cuts. The rest is perfect though. The tray has an 80mm adjstment range. I would have gone longer, but didn't due to raw material size. The battery sled itself will be made out of 2mm.
I laminated a 2mm piece over a portion of 3mm. That 5mm piece will be used for the motor mounts. I will get to that as well as a few more aluminum bits on Monday or Tuesday.Comment
-
I made the motor mount side plates made. I couldn't wait. I laminated a 2mm and a 3mm sheet to create a 5mm sheet. You can't even tell it was two pieces. The completed motor mount (without motor screws) weighs 75g.
The battery tray weighs 136g. The estimated sled weight is 67g, so I should be around 220g with all hardware. That is 45g heavier than HPR's version, but is significantly stronger since it is 3mm and not 2mm, and fits the hull much better. My design also gives a little more versatility.
The servo mount (minus aluminum bottom plate) weighs 17.5g.
Above all else, I designed every bit of hardware going inside this boat.Comment
-
I cut the stuffing tubes to length. Should I epoxy them to the transom, or would I be better off using silicone? I will make a support bracket out of 3mm. The main purpose would be to keep the spacing correct during install. I would probably use silicone for the supports.
I finalized the hardware for the battery sled and will have those parts printed. The battery tray will be mounted to the hill with silicone.Comment
-
I'm going to cut the shaft by about 6-8mm. I may extend the flat afterwards.Attached FilesComment
-
I trimmed the motor shafts, and made the stuffing tube connector/spacer. The motor angle is perfect and it's time to glue it in. Should I use epoxy thickened with carbon dust, or should I use JB Weld?Attached FilesComment
Comment