Well this is my first build thread on this forum and my first electric build in almost 30 years! I have built and raced many nitro and gas boats over the years but I am new to the FE scene so here goes! I used to have a VS-1 with a modified K&B outboard with a Irwin pipe that I really enjoyed so I decided to start with that hull and convert it to electric. I just really like the way a wood tunnel handles. I really wanted a ML PS295 but they are no longer made and very hard to find.
Blandon's P-Limited tunnel build
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Marked out my cut lines and ready to saw a chunk out of the middle of this bad boy so I can build a sunken down battery/ESC box.Attached FilesComment
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Nothing like hacking up a brand new boat that I haven't even owned for 5 hours!!! LOLAttached FilesComment
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Cut through the birch and just have to remove the foam and start mocking up my new radio box.Attached FilesComment
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The hard part is done! Foam removed, interior of radio box is scraped clean and sanded, side rails of the box are made and starting to figure out my layout. My outboard unit should be here tomorrow and then time to get the boat balanced out so I can figure out the permanent locations for everything.Comment
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Nice mod! BTW make sure to reseal all edges...I have seen many with water leaking through the top and botton.GillGO FAST AND TURN RIGHT !
www.grsboats.com.brComment
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For my power system I went with a UL-1 2030KV motor, Turnigy 120a esc, MaxAmps 5450mah 4s lipo, and a Lawless drive. Fred from Lawless was really great to deal with and he by far makes the most well laid out and best outboard drive you can get. He now also streamlined the process with his new FE adapter set up for his drive. The adapter requires no other plates it just mounts directly to the drive itself and Fred includes all hardware for mounting the motor to the adapter and the adapter to the drive. Very sleek and clean look and it keeps the motor nice and low.Attached FilesComment
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It has the left hand thread and screws into the unit like the K&B but the OS shaft is longer so Fred has to make a couple changes to the drive to make it fit correctly. If you look close at the picture you'll see a spacer that is actually tapered at the back and clamps the lower output of the drive when you tighten the prop shaft.Comment
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