Aeromarine 44" hydro

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  • AntronX
    Senior Member
    • Jul 2008
    • 333

    #46
    Originally posted by Ub Hauled
    It seems to me that I have to find a charger that is capable to charge my cells at 5C...
    I have this problem with A123 cells. I want to charge them at 4C, but most powerful charger for RC is 10A. So i am researching if this would work: http://www.xantrex.com/web/id/252/p/1/pt/25/product.asp with this: http://www.schulze-elektronik-gmbh.com/LiPoProB-e.htm

    Xantrex XW outputs 60A max current, and i only need 40A. The down side, is that i would have to carry four 12 volt batteries to the lake with me to get 48V to feed this beast. We don't have electricity at our club lake. Schulze Lipoprofibal only can do 15A, but tech support told me to use solid state relay that can handle the current i need. Sounds like a piece of cake.

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    • AntronX
      Senior Member
      • Jul 2008
      • 333

      #47
      Small update. Received props today from Jim at abcprops. Sharpened and balanced H2016 3 blade. First i ran 51mm carbon prop to make sure my amps were reading the same as another day. Next i put that 2016 on. That prop did not want to catch for 3 seconds, but once it did... Boat shot up to about 60 mph. The rooster tail was 10 feet high and sound of that prop was amazing. Then i looked at the amps - 170A peak . I graphed data from recorder and average current was 150A. I was running Hydra 120 HV... Did not expect that tiny prop to draw so much. But it was awesome to see and hear. But that 120 survived and runs good. Was it luck?

      Right now i am trying to fix burned power board from another Hydra 120 HV i have. I want to try and connect that extra board to the working Hydra to make it 180 amp. I am pulling good transistors from one board to replace 6 burned ones on another. Both boards have burned FETs. Mouser.com sells them, but i want to have it done by the weekend.

      Comment

      • duncanjerry
        Member
        • Dec 2007
        • 73

        #48
        Glad u went with one motor and esc. Here's sosme pics of my setup ,it may help you. 3060 ,10s2p ,40-160. My hatch cracked at 60 mph, I'd take raydee's advise and build a sub hatch, this could save you serious$$$$. Glue some wooden strips under you hatch opening creating a ledge, cut lexan to fit and tape it down. Now you have a second defense against water. Have fun John.
        Attached Files

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        • AntronX
          Senior Member
          • Jul 2008
          • 333

          #49
          Hey John, cool setup. Its nice to see someone else doing what i am doing. Can you post some more pics how you mounted your motor. Also, you got some videos of that thing? I will post some more pictures of my setup later today. I am more worried about flipping doing 60 mph and losing the hatch along with the batteries. Right now i got Velcro holding my LiPos. Can you also show your 10S2P setup? I am thinking of ordering four 5S1P PQ-5000-XQ packs from rclipos. Do you run teflon liner? What about thrust bearing or thrust washers on the strut? What's your amp draw and speed? What's your motor's Kv rating?

          Comment

          • Bill-SOCAL
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • Nov 2007
            • 1404

            #50
            Just as an FYI, there are a couple of other FE Sport Hydros out there. Mark Ferreria set a new NAMBA SAWS record with a Neu 2230 powered SpeedFreek sport hydro of 100.5 mph. Best pass was 105 and change. 10S and a 40.160 controller.

            The RC Lipos packs are great packs. I use them all the time. Let Pat know you are a boater, he likes us!! Email him first about what you want before ordering.

            Most of us with big boats do not run a Teflon liner. I do not use thrust bearings, although some people do.

            Here's a diagram of how to connect 10S2P packs:

            10S2P Diagram
            Don't get me started

            Comment

            • duncanjerry
              Member
              • Dec 2007
              • 73

              #51
              Thanks bill for the 10s2p diagram. You'll want to go to 10s2p cause that big ol neu's going to want more amps. My motor is mounted using ring mount, its bolted flat to the floor on a piece of ply. I don't remember the kv, but the 3060's more like the 2215. I usualy run a x450/3 which puts me at about 60mph in oval trim. I think we hit 67 w/ x457. I don't use teflon on big boats,and this one has no thrust washer. Not to say you should or shouldn't, you should ask a pro. As for amp draw I use the "that feels about right method" I start with a small prop,
              x450/2, and run a few laps, stop check temps, prop up, check temps, repeat the last two steps till temps feel about right with my hand-o-momiter. I like everything to be hot after 10 laps. My rule of thumb is it shouldn't be too hot to touch.

              Comment

              • AntronX
                Senior Member
                • Jul 2008
                • 333

                #52
                Here are pictures of my current temporary setup:
                Attached Files

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                • AntronX
                  Senior Member
                  • Jul 2008
                  • 333

                  #53
                  few more..
                  Attached Files

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                  • AntronX
                    Senior Member
                    • Jul 2008
                    • 333

                    #54
                    Update: Got Hydra 180 HV (Thanks, Ub Hauled). X455 prop, Average current = 140A, Peak = 175A.

                    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KTmlheNTOQs (Steven, why no HTML ? )

                    Comment

                    • calcagno45
                      Fast Electric Addict!
                      • Mar 2008
                      • 1006

                      #55
                      Wow! Looks like she's moving pretty well.

                      How did you manage to lose the prop at the end of the run?
                      My prop hasn't been wet in a while.

                      Comment

                      • AntronX
                        Senior Member
                        • Jul 2008
                        • 333

                        #56
                        Originally posted by calcagno45
                        Wow! Looks like she's moving pretty well.

                        How did you manage to lose the prop at the end of the run?
                        I used small prop nut without locktite but held by piece of silicone tubing behind it on a shaft. It was a $50 prop I finally learned how to sharpen and balance props in 30 minutes using 1" wide sandpaper belt benchtop grinder. With that, losing props is much cheaper...

                        Comment

                        • Ub Hauled
                          Fast Electric Addict!
                          • Aug 2007
                          • 3031

                          #57
                          Anton, losing props is part of the game (I know!), medium strength Loctide is the way to go.
                          I just noticed on your pics (nice BTW, Canon?), that little area where the coupler and the clex are located... there should be no wires dangling there man, that is just asking for trouble, get those cables outta there man!
                          Keep Murphy's Law in mind while running FE boats... anything that can go wrong, WILL!.
                          :::::::::::::::. It's NEVER fast enough! .:::::::::::::::

                          Comment

                          • Bill-SOCAL
                            Fast Electric Addict!
                            • Nov 2007
                            • 1404

                            #58
                            Get some real prop nuts. The one in your photo looks like a plain old nut. I use the prop nuts sold by Bill Zuber. He has nuts for both 3/16th and 1/4 inch shafts. Bill Zuber can be gotten in touch with through the contact page at IMPBA

                            Chris at DASBOATA sells some too.

                            But use a nut meant for the prop shaft and you not need to use Loctite, etc. I've never lost a prop using these nuts. Buy a bunch and replace them when they lost their grab.
                            Don't get me started

                            Comment

                            • AntronX
                              Senior Member
                              • Jul 2008
                              • 333

                              #59
                              I cannot figure out how to make youtube videos look better, so i am posting much better quality videos here. Note the file size. They play fine in VLC player and Media Player Classic.

                              1. Me filming good close-ups of the boat (46 MByte h.264) http://antronx.com/big_boat/AntronX_...o_close_up.MP4

                              2. Same video as posted on youtube earlier (37 MByte h.264) http://antronx.com/big_boat/AntronX_Hydro_16x9.MP4

                              Comment

                              • AntronX
                                Senior Member
                                • Jul 2008
                                • 333

                                #60
                                Quick update: ran the boat today with Octura Y547 prop de-tongued. I took the turn fin off. After messing with the strut settings, i got it about right and did 69.2 mph with peak of 188A and once it got above 60 mph average amps fell down to 120A ! Here is a graph attached of that pass from V3. Also had the boat go airborne once. That was scary to watch. It backflipped and landed good so i just drove it back to shore. Everything held up fine. It takes me the full length of my lake to get up to max speed as you can see in my graph. I will do more passes on our club lake this Sunday with video.
                                Attached Files

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