8255 Build

[flraptor07]

I've tried spackling compound and, Byron Jet pin hole filler on a PTSS and a Whip cowl and the schtuff just falls out of holes and whatever, just no darn luck with pin holes. I think that's why I like either gel coat FG hulls or wood to build with. I hate finishing pin holed surfaces, it makes me complete irate.

Ray, I'm pretty sure they're talking about filling pin holes on a Mold Plug not a finished piece.

[T.S.Davis]

Nope, I fill the holes on the finished piece with that too. That works great.

I use a piece of ABS cut with a straight edge like a putty knife. Sorta like when you mud drywall.

[ron1950]

An even better idea for a turbine cowl would be to con Pete into modelling and milling one. Then mold that part. You could still mill it from foam. Then go through the sealing, sanding, priming, polishing, molding process. At least the symmetry would be dead on that way. Hmmmmmmmm



well what about it Pete? lol

[longballlumber]

Epoxy thinner?

Yes, Rather than using the Klass Kote thinner I am using a product from Pittsburgh Paints (epoxy thinner/reducer). I can get you the number if you want. It's not cheap 40-50 a gallon, but I use it to wipe down parts and for cleaning my gun. However, it works and its not something I want to mess with trying to save a buck or two.

I really can't say enough about Klass Kote. I am the furthest thing from a painter and my stuff looks pretty good. AND it's very strong!

Terry, I hope that you either waiting until it warms up or your heating up the garage. There are temp limits for the Klass Kote line of paints. I am sure you already know this.

Later,
Ball

[T.S.Davis]

I have a furnace in the garage but it's so cold it can't keep up. So I bought a propane monster that will heat it right up. Think it's 70000 btu. It's a beast. But there still is the issue of it getting too cold in there before the epoxy even flashes off. I'm not comfortable running an open flame furnace while spraying a solvent. Fire guy. So I'll have to wait at least until we crest the 40's I think. That I might be able to manage. I suppose I could just heat it up to 95 degrees, spray quick, cross my fingers. Not to keen on that idea.

That House of Kolor stuff is $31/gallon. House of Kolor isn't exactly bottom shelf. http://www.tcpglobal.com/HOK_KC10-GL...5#.VO82xS5uMgY

I thought I was doing it right. Maybe it was too cold when I sprayed or a compatibility problem. I was using multiple manufacturers when I sprayed the Tide boat. Anything I can do to NOT have another shedding incident I'm doing. If I have to stand on my head to spray it?........yep.....doing that.

I painted Fred's Thomas with Emron metallic silver. Huge flake in it. Then some Createx Autoair Candy details. About 6 coats of clear. That paint was bullet proof. Guess I'm "gun" shy after that last disaster. After that I felt like I had zero clue what paint even was.

Maybe I should just use a roller. haha

[longballlumber]

Don't know... Paint and chemicals can be such a black magic. If I remember right the paint on the PT boats all separated very cleanly (and in big areas) directly from the epoxy boat surface. How did you prep the surface?

I hit the entire hull with 400 before even shooting primer. After shooting primer (and letting it cure) I wet sand with 400 again. At that point, I let the primer fully cure (min of 24 hours), then clean and shoot pigment

I've only used Klass across the board (prime, paint, and clear). I don't like the idea of mixing and matching.

To be clear, I still use the Klass brand thinner for cutting the paint. I only use the Pittsburgh stuff for cleaning the objects to be painted and cleaning the gun afterwards.

[T.S.Davis]

I had sanded just to 220 if I remember correctly. Then wiped with the HOK solvent. Maybe my actual primer had gone bad. That would explain how it was shedding. I can't remember which primer I used unfortunately. I was using Duratec exclusively for a while. http://www.fibreglast.com/product/Du...aZ8aAmXA8P8HAQ

Priceeeeeey but high build. You can fix a multitude of imperfections in your sanding. Great for plugs. It's what went on Fred's boat. I can't say for sure if that's what went on my boat though. I don't think it was.

I'll be sticking with all Klass on both this Oberto and the old Thomas. Primer, paint, clear. One manufacturer. I'll go back and read their recommendations before I paint too.

[JimClark]

Tack cloth should come from a auto paint supply business not home Depot. Never had a problem. Also make sure there is a filter in line of your air hose as it could spray a little oil

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk

[Shooter]

well what about it Pete? lol

haha! I haven't even machined a slot in a pc of wood yet! We'll see how my first project goes....

Terry - Sorry, not thinner....reducer (Klasskote reducer). Just dabbed it on a towel. Sounds like Mike has you straight though. I sand just as Mike said (400/600 between prime coats, 800 after color coats, then 1000wet, 1200wet, 1500wet, 3M finesse-it polishing comp, and then final polish to remove swirls). Klasskote really responds well to the polish (I never thought it would). I used that method on all the white boats (LSH, Q) and the front part of this boat....

[ray schrauwen]

Why not tack cloth from Home Depot Jim?? I use it, seems to work fine. Does it leave a residue?

Tack cloth should come from a auto paint supply business not home Depot. Never had a problem. Also make sure there is a filter in line of your air hose as it could spray a little oil

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[ray schrauwen]

It must be me or my technique. Maybe product wasn't good either?????

Ray, I'm pretty sure they're talking about filling pin holes on a Mold Plug not a finished piece.

[JimClark]

I think it has to do with what they use to make it tacky it doesn't leave a residue

[T.S.Davis]

Doesn't look like progress but actually is. Top side sealed and wiped. Thanks Mike. Not sure why I didn't remember the wiping part. Asleep at the wheel I guess.

When you seal ply you intend to paint you're not trying to form a finished surface with the resin. That's the job of the primer and paint. Your really only trying to make the wood part of a composite with the wood fiber being the matrix. Leaving all that resin on there is just making work for you to sand smooth.

So slather on some slow cure. Let it soak for 15 minutes or so. Then wipe the surface with an old tee shirt or something. I already spent a lot of time sanding the bare wood. With the wiping method my next sanding dance will be easy breezy lemon squeezy.
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[T.S.Davis]

Also, for all you carbon over everything monkeys, it's not necessary. My Whip 40 stuffed, went all the way to the bottom and was stuck in the mud without carbon run all the way up the tub. No damage.

[Shooter]

I agree. I never really understood the purpose of carbon fiber on the entire tub surface. It doesn't really tie anything together.