New P Sport Hydro 2015!

[ray schrauwen]

What are hull dimensions? I've gone over most of the thread and can't find it?

What does a kit include and not include?

I'll pm more questions.

[ray schrauwen]

Thank you, I missed this. Its mod time this winter.

Ray, if I remember I'll post a pic. My ride pad extends all the way to the nose of the boat. So basically the pad is the width of the trailing edge of the sponson. Then feathered to the tips. They're beat to death now but I think you'll see it. I was going to make that tapered mod that Brian used but I think/thought he did that because he was running SAW with it and the lift off that step needed to go away.

It's hard to pick up just looking at my 20. You have to turn it over and really look. I concealed the change at the time. Built that in the winter of 2010. I was still under the illusion that I had to keep my secrets to win anything. DOH!

On the 40 it's easy to see the change because I used black walnut to do it. Nayman inspired me to change that one believe it or not.

[ray schrauwen]

Ken, it's 33-1/2" x 17". Sized right between LSH and Q, for FULL P.

Now I know one answer to one of my questions. More reading. I'm liking this Pete. Answer my PM at your Leisure.

[ray schrauwen]

Finally after reading the whole thread over I Now have about every answer to the questions I sent Pete in a PM.

I would like to be on the list please, thanks!

[Shooter]

Pete....

With the mods you made in Ver 5.7 did you just modify the ride pad on the inside sponson and leave the 3 degree dihedral on the outside sponson?
Also did you switch up the power package on the latest build?

Thanks

Mike

Hi Mike. Not sure how I missed this question, sorry! Both sponsons are flat on ver 5.7. Power package is still the Neu 1515-1Y. I tried the larger motor, but didn't like it.

[Shooter]

Spent 9 hours on Saturday running the laser cutter and the vacuum former. Frames done on (6)kits. Need to run (2) more frames and the skins Monday night. Anyways, all that time watching the laser and I started to think.....am I crazy, or do you think this would work (see third photo). It would completely alleviate the need for an aluminum motor mount. Obviously it would need to be covered with glass. Thoughts???

[jfrancisco892]

The only thing that concerns me is heat dissipation and warping.

[flraptor07]

Personally, I'd rather do it in aluminum. That way we know for sure it's not going anywhere..

[ray schrauwen]

Spent 9 hours on Saturday running the laser cutter and the vacuum former. Frames done on (6)kits. Need to run (2) more frames and the skins Monday night. Anyways, all that time watching the laser and I started to think.....am I crazy, or do you think this would work (see third photo). It would completely alleviate the need for an aluminum motor mount. Obviously it would need to be covered with glass. Thoughts???

I'll take that. I can replicate it in aluminum or just add a plate to motor side.

[bozo586]

pete----it works for me too! would be stronger across the sponsons!

[T.S.Davis]

Wont work for me. I'll break that.

[TRUCKPULL]

Even if you use Flat and Lock washers on the motor.
The ply compresses a little bit and the motor is a little bit loose.
I would say stay with the aluminum.

It may be ok for the spec motors?

Larry

[ray schrauwen]

Whatever works best, toss it in the bag. I'll be using aluminum to mount a motor as the boat originally was designed.

[TRUCKPULL]

Pete
You should put some extra holes in it to match the air vent holes on the front of the 1515
The extra air flow would not hurt.

Larry

[Shooter]

Good input. Thanks guys! Just to be clear, the boats will ship out with the original design (wood template to create an aluminum plate mount). I was just fishing for thoughts.