New P Sport Hydro 2015!

[detox]

D - That yellow boat looks beautiful. If I remember, you were using two part automotive paint, correct?

I used Summit Racing's Single Stage Urathane (paint, catalyst, reducer). The Klasscoat is a better and cheaper route for hobbiest

[detox]

The insane fin seemed a little small to me. Never tried it though, but I've heard they work well on the FE30. I've found that a consistent width fin (just as wide at the bottom as the top) with an aggressive curve towards the very bottom (not a gradual curve from midway down) works best. Oh, and it has to be as thin as possibleand sharpened with a gradual taper at least 3/4" into the blade. Just my experience. We played around with these last year (probably about 50+ runs with different fin designs).

Thanks for the turnfin tip.

Yea, I hear if turn fin is too aggressive it will cause the boat to plow and slow down in turns. Your boats look very fast and free in turns.

[jfrancisco892]

Are you running 2 boats in P sport hydro? (why are you painting 2 hulls)

Are you gonna be running your Pete sport Hydro?

[T.S.Davis]

Haha. I primed two boats today too.

[longballlumber]

Are you gonna be running your Pete sport Hydro?

I originally was working to have it finished for spring Flint event. As usual Life gets in the way of this stuff. I've been doing a great deal of work on 2 of the 3 bedrooms upstairs. We also have the basement that needs to be repaired from the flood. It was more important for us to fix the "livable" area first then work in the basement later. Actually most of our "stuff" from the upstairs was in the basement at the time of the flood as I was working up there at the time. Being a one man band in these house repairs doesn't leave much hobby time. Not to mention, my wife and I work through some very unique challenges with her back issues on a daily basis. I could go on... Time is not my friend.

When I do get time to do boat work, I am focusing some some different stuff this year. I am looking to do some racing/traveling with my Dad this year. That means playing with some Nitro boats again.

Later

[longballlumber]

I am so jealous that you guys have functional garages... I would like to see a tree fall on mine. It's good for nothing!

How did the Klass Kote work and how did you keep the over spray from going all over the place in a closed up garage?

[ray schrauwen]

You have no clue, how much this is going to help me when I do mine. Thank you and keep up the great work...

P.S. You might want to cover up: "The Property of TRW Fowlerville...

People were asking about how I paint things (I'm not a painter, but I've had some mild success). At this point I've brushed it, vacuumed it, hit it with air, and cleaned it with acetone two times. I will clean once more with KlassKote reducer when I get to the shop.

Going to use the forum to think through the paint application. Oh, and one of these things on the turn fin mount (photo) works good for hooking and maneuvering while painting.

Believe it or not, there is actually a method to the madness to avoid overspray on finished surfaces:
1. Spray transom.
2. Spray front and tips of sponsons.
3. Spray backs of sponsons.
4. Spray sides.
5. Spray bottom.
6. Spray top.

To sum it up, the entire operation is an absolute pain in the a$$.

[Shooter]

Chris - that insane hardware (strut/rudder) is probably the best out there!! Nice choice.

Mike - one of the boats is V5.3, and the other is V5.5(deeper air bleeds). Jimmy will be running the V5.3. Hoping to compare performance.

Sanded for about 3 hours today!!

[flraptor07]

Chris - that insane hardware (strut/rudder) is probably the best out there!! Nice choice.



Sanded for about 3 hours today!!

Well you had mentioned it before, when I was asking you to make me one of those setups you made for yours. SEE I was listening!

[Shooter]

Wow. You are on a very short list of people that listen to me!

Both boats are very close. I filled in a few spots and sanded thru the primer in a few areas. The rest of the surfaces are taking on a nice sheen. I used mostly 800 paper (dry). One more coat of primer...probably next weekend.

[T.S.Davis]

Sanded for about 3 hours today!!

Me too.

[Shooter]

finishing.jpgLet me preface with....I have no idea what I am doing. Anyone with 3D machining experience on a shopbot using MDF, please chime in! Here's what the software thinks it will look like. haha. I'm sure my first try will just be a complete mess.

I think I have the roughing parameters down. It's the final pass I'm finding controversial info on. I plan to run a 1/4" ball nose @ 12K with 0.025 stepover (10%) <- - I want good finish, but is this overdoing it? Feed = 2in/s, Plunge = 1in/s. I'm taking 0.075" per pass. Am I just going to make a bunch of dust? Chip load seems low at 0.005. Thanks.

[Shooter]

Had to take some liberties and modify the cowl a bit. The scoop just didn't make sense after I added the exhaust header locaters. If there's a V8 in there, then the intake should be above block, in line with the exhaust ports!!! Made some additional tweaks to the cowl. I think it looks pretty cool now.

new3.jpgc8.jpg

[detox]

That looks cool, but will there be enough clearance between brushless motor and cowl if I decided to mount the motor more rearward. Instead of chopped off look, can you taper it back more toward transom.

Big four tube headers would look cool exiting cowl.

[flraptor07]

Pete, I think it looks even better now, Did you droop the nose a little more too?