Ran her today (video below). The angled air bleeds seem to be working beautifully. Very stable and no signs of blow over whatsoever at 63mph, but that bouy paid the price. No damage other than the nose cone and some small paint chips. Having a very difficult time steering though (OBVIOUSLY!!!). It hooks drastically at the exit of the turn if you give it too much steering input. Too little, and it doesn't turn at all. Very very touchy. Any advice here? Talked to Terry about turn fin curve and the location with respect to CG, etc...???
New P Sport Hydro 2015!
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Runs real nice. Looks like another winner!! I'd run a few more times before messing to much with the steering since you haven't been out since what last October? but heck what do I know..see what some of these more experienced guys got to say...JOHN A. GROSS
MILLBROOK, AL
Crickety Crack Racing TeamComment
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Pete, It's running nice, I couldn't get a real good look at it but it looks like it could stand to be a touch looser. I don't know if that will effect the hooking problem or not. that bouy hit didn't sound good.... OUCH!!! we use pool noodles on our course, they just clip right off, no damage just go out and hook another one on. We've got them weighted so they stand strait up about 14" tall.Comment
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I like that pool noodle idea. We have a lot of 'bouy happy' people in our club.
Haven't solved the turning problem yet. The entrance of the turns are fine. It's on rails. Then, at about the apex, the steering gets more aggressive and it hooks on the exit of the turn. I'm using the mini-rudder.
Some thoughts were:
1. Turn fin flex (bends when going into the turn and unbends and returns to position at the apex and pulls harder)
2. CG vs. Turnfin position
3. Weight distribution
4. Turn fin curvature (too much?)Comment
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I have been using "dobblers" to minimize the flex of my turnfins with sucess on my riggers and sport hydros.....maybe you can try it.GillAttached FilesGO FAST AND TURN RIGHT !
www.grsboats.com.brComment
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looking from the outside on my twin fe rigger.Gill
BTW she's running great.CongratsAttached FilesGO FAST AND TURN RIGHT !
www.grsboats.com.brComment
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Box From Pete
Well I just got a box in the mail from Pete today and it's the hatch and nose for the P Hydro. VERY NICE stuff Pete! I know you have a lot of time in these and it shows. I'm really exited about getting started on this nowAnd again VERY NICE job on the vacuum formed parts and thank you very much!! DSC03050.jpgDSC03051.jpgDSC03052.jpgDSC03053.jpg
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Well I just got a box in the mail from Pete today and it's the hatch and nose for the P Hydro. VERY NICE stuff Pete! I know you have a lot of time in these and it shows. I'm really exited about getting started on this nowAnd again VERY NICE job on the vacuum formed parts and thank you very much!! [ATTACH=CONFIG]131231[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]131232[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]131233[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]131234[/ATTACH]
We ran 6 races between the two of us. Nose cones stayed in place....and one of them was glued with a gap and was a loose fit! So far so good.
I think Terry could be right regarding CG. I also talked to a full size guy. Says our outer sponson may be leaning into the water towards the end of the turn, catching, and causing it to hook.Comment
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Pete, does the bottom fit inside the top or do they butt together? If the Sponson is causing the hook, that could be a easy fix by either rounding the outter edge a little more or putting a thin angled ride pad on the outside Sponson? Oh and what did you end up naming this boat?Comment
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Hi Chris. The bottom slips inside the top. I use Plastruct Plastic Weld. I will add the procedure to the instructions. There is a certain way you want to cut it out as well. BTW - I didn't see your decals in the photo. Did you get those? Two windshield pcs and two scoop pcs.
We talked about names 'P-shooter', etc... but never ended up with one.
As for the steering, I failed to mention that this boat has 3° dihedral on each sponson ride pad. A lot of the more recent race boats (whip, PT, etc...) have a flat (0°) inside sponson to avoid cutting into the water during a turn. This is another possible root cause to add to the list, but I doubt it.Comment
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They say that a hydro that is too tail heavy will want to spin out in turns. Hang your ready to run boat sideways at center of turn fin using strong finger. Hull should hang evenly or very slightly tail heavy. Think of hull being tied to turn fin by string and going round and round in circle on water.
Is your prop cavitating exiting turns? More tongue will help exit turns faster and get on plane from dead start faster.
Servo problem ?Last edited by detox; 04-28-2015, 03:31 PM.Comment
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Hi Chris. The bottom slips inside the top. I use Plastruct Plastic Weld. I will add the procedure to the instructions. There is a certain way you want to cut it out as well. BTW - I didn't see your decals in the photo. Did you get those? Two windshield pcs and two scoop pcs.
We talked about names 'P-shooter', etc... but never ended up with one.
As for the steering, I failed to mention that this boat has 3° dihedral on each sponson ride pad. A lot of the more recent race boats (whip, PT, etc...) have a flat (0°) inside sponson to avoid cutting into the water during a turn. This is another possible root cause to add to the list, but I doubt it.Comment
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