Aeromarine Team Believer with updated hatch build. Special

[Fella1340]

I really like this build. The thermal cutoff switch is something every esc should have regardless of price. I'm surprised nobody has come up with an aftermarket solution as well. Being able to switch to pump cooling is a nice touch, the larger the boat the more relevant these things become. I applaud your innovative approach to the build. I can see this saving your esc many times over with the long run times your shooting for. Such a large motor in a small boat is going to give you plenty of prop options, again making the system well worth the effort. I would definitely add another check valve to include the motor in the water pump cooling circuit. You could also add another thermal switch to the motor and use a single light for esc over temp and double light for motor over temp. Then there's the batteries, if they start getting to hot.......The skies the limit. There's always telemetry but with how fast the temperature climbs when things start to go wrong it would likely be missed and a melt down already started, plus the thermal switches are virtually bullet proof. I have a build I am already way past the keep it simple part and you've given me some great ideas/solutions to things that had me concerned with the build. How are you wiring the thermal switch in? Is the pump part of the circuit where it powers on when the thermal switch goes open? Any more detail you can think of or things you would do differently next time I would love to hear about. Keep up the great work. Park that dirt bike and get this thing in the water! I really want to see what that motor will do in that boat.

[rearwheelin]

I really like this build. The thermal cutoff switch is something every esc should have regardless of price. I'm surprised nobody has come up with an aftermarket solution as well. Being able to switch to pump cooling is a nice touch, the larger the boat the more relevant these things become. I applaud your innovative approach to the build. I can see this saving your esc many times over with the long run times your shooting for. Such a large motor in a small boat is going to give you plenty of prop options, again making the system well worth the effort. I would definitely add another check valve to include the motor in the water pump cooling circuit. You could also add another thermal switch to the motor and use a single light for esc over temp and double light for motor over temp. Then there's the batteries, if they start getting to hot.......The skies the limit. There's always telemetry but with how fast the temperature climbs when things start to go wrong it would likely be missed and a melt down already started, plus the thermal switches are virtually bullet proof. I have a build I am already way past the keep it simple part and you've given me some great ideas/solutions to things that had me concerned with the build. How are you wiring the thermal switch in? Is the pump part of the circuit where it powers on when the thermal switch goes open? Any more detail you can think of or things you would do differently next time I would love to hear about. Keep up the great work. Park that dirt bike and get this thing in the water! I really want to see what that motor will do in that boat.

Thanks Fella1340 I appreciate it ! I have a ways to go on it still. I plan on plumbing in another check valve and T in to the motor side , I bought the only valves that small my hobby shop had , I'm going to do it though and the water pump seems to push water really good so no worries there ! For wiring I'm basically running it all with a 3s lipo direct. I will run my receiver with a BEC from the 3s pack. Going to add another thermal switch to the motor also and have it light up the same lights , it would be nice to know which switch gets tripped but either way if one ore the other gets hot it will let me know and both will are going to benefit from the cool down time . I just didn't want too many lights all over it lol So far I'm happy with progress , I am going to re do the center lexan piece after I get my stuffing tube built, it's going to have an Aeromarine bearing oiler thingy and will have a oil tank plumbed to that which will get mounted of the cf motor mounts side plates. I was going with .187 cable but decided on 1/4 flex with a step down shaft , just ordered all that so I should be seeing it shortly ! Then I need to find time to work on it again ! My day job kills me lol

[Fella1340]

Keeping the motor and esc on the same lights keeps the logic real simple which is a good thing. After I made my post I was thinking the same thing should you add a thermal cutoff to the motor. It should all work great! A video showing a test of the thermal switch off circuit would be cool. You could your soldering iron on a small block of aluminum against the switch while your running the motor to show us how it works. I would love to see it! Keep us posted!

[rearwheelin]

Keeping the motor and esc on the same lights keeps the logic real simple which is a good thing. After I made my post I was thinking the same thing should you add a thermal cutoff to the motor. It should all work great! A video showing a test of the thermal switch off circuit would be cool. You could your soldering iron on a small block of aluminum against the switch while your running the motor to show us how it works. I would love to see it! Keep us posted!

Will do !

[rearwheelin]

Looks like all parts are in for the drive setup. Bought another check valve too !image.jpg

[rearwheelin]

This oiler is pretty cool ! Will be kind of a tight fit , may need to build some thing to hold it in place because of it's size and my motor position it is taking up floor room I needed to secure the stuffing tube area.image.jpg

[Fluid]

Try a shorter coupler like the MRB, that may gain you 1/2" to 3/8".




.

[rearwheelin]

Try a shorter coupler like the MRB, that may gain you 1/2" to 3/8".




.

Nice tip J !

[rearwheelin]

Ok so she is lining up better than I thought it would .The brass going into the oiler must be 11/32" and the brass that goes into the speedmaster strut is 5/16" . Since the two sizes sleeve together I'm going to make the stuffing tube removable . I'm going to cut the 11/32" brass here(see pic) and run the 5/16" into it. Seems like it would be better to pull the 5/16" brass out to bend a propper adjustment or replace if damaged.image.jpgimage.jpg

I don't know why it always rotates the second pic !

[rearwheelin]

...image.jpg

[Fella1340]

Looks like your ready to finish it up this weekend:-) I like the stuffing tube seal/oiler. I have a few of them here ready for various builds. Not having used one yet I wonder how the seal part of it actually works when the flex shaft winds up and shortens itself while running. Seems like any time the flex shaft is under load there wouldn't be a seal, have you used them before?

[rearwheelin]

In reality it's probably going to be a good while before I'm done . I take a long time because I don't have much time lol I'm not sure how well the seal works ! Seems like it would melt down but I'm going of Aeromarines claim of extensive testing ! ha ha

[kfxguy]

Looks like your ready to finish it up this weekend:-) I like the stuffing tube seal/oiler. I have a few of them here ready for various builds. Not having used one yet I wonder how the seal part of it actually works when the flex shaft winds up and shortens itself while running. Seems like any time the flex shaft is under load there wouldn't be a seal, have you used them before?

I have on a few of my builds. There's no issues I've found except the bearing that comes in it isn't sealed and it's junk. I destroyed it at the rpm I turn. Cheap fix: sealed ceramic bearing. No more issues.

[kfxguy]

Btw, that must be a new design. I'll post a pic of the last one I have.

[rearwheelin]

Sounds good kxf