50" P1 Fountain mono build

[Fella1340]

I do have some ebay carbon sheet that would have run around $40 for a 1.5mm 300mm x400mm. I believe it was in a matte twill. Not all that much for a small boat. I will be looking into vacuum bagging and making my own eventually. I am here to stay. I have burned through a lot of hobbies, nothing has come even close to the satisfaction I get from these boats!

[rickwess]

I can appreciate wanting to mess around in wood as it gets pricey, especially when you don't plan properly. I buy from Acpcomposite, USA company that has everything you can imagine. You can get there cf in matte finish and gloss, different weaves to choose from. A 1.5mm twill matte finish one side/gloss the other in a 12" x12" is going to run you about $60. There are cheaper places on ebay but I have my doubts of what's in between. Just layering some weave and joining with resin leaves an incredibly strong piece. This took 1 1/2 ounces of resin, most of which was rolled off and could have been used on the other side if I had done it. The light makes it appear glossy but it is matte and the surface finish is textured to the feel. It turned out excellent. I have enough plate to do my boat. When I build my whip 40 I will use this type for strengthening. Here's a pic of 1/8 birch ply with 5 harness weave cloth. The second picture shows a cut I made into it with a hacksaw. 4-5 strokes to travel almost 2 inches. Cut like butter with a clean edge. I cut a piece of 1.5mm carbon plate just as easy. I clamped a wood block on one side to support. So you don't need a bandsaw! I wanted to see how this worked to. None of the cuts required any real effort. A hack saw handle that leaves the blade end open is only a few dollars. Just showing it doesn't take much to make cf parts with a professional look once done. Let's see. Some cf plate in your boat Rick!

There is just something so stress relieving working with wood. Sure you use the power tools to get it to 98% of it's final shape, but that last 2% is just a piece of sandpaper to finesse the final shape..........LOL.

I have been thinking about my next build(s). It's a toss up between a ML Boatworks GP310/335 and/or a large mono in the 45" to 50" range.

On the pics, is the core 1/8" ply sandwiched between layers of CF or just layers of CF?

[Fella1340]

I was only kidding around with you. Making little pieces for the boat out of cf is easy. I will say the slivers areas absolute nightmare. I got two in the same day on different fingers. To small to see but the body really doesn't like them. Badly infected within two days, the details aren't pretty but healed up good now. I see a carbon fiber,sorry wood mono with twin engines in your future. I am looking forward to the whip 40 build, love some of the ml kits but didn't know much about them so I have the whip. Hopefully somebody will give me some good advice on what I am doing. I will take the good and bad. Don't worry about my feelings, I will take an honest opinion over them anyway! Got to finish the cf plate for the transom!

[rickwess]

I know you were messing around. I like the idea of a large mono have having ample space to work with. It would most likely just be a single motor.

Seriously though, I'm trying to understand your pics. The 3rd pic looks like part cut out of CF plate (I assume that's protective film showing). The first two pics have me thinking though. "Here's a pic of 1/8 birch ply with 5 harness weave cloth". Does that mean the core is 1/8" ply?

[Fella1340]

Your correct, the small piece is cf with protective film over I cut with ease with the hacksaw. The other piece is the same 5 harness weave used in the boat. I mixed up way to much resin so I grabbed a piece of 1/8" x 18" x 24" piece of birch ply and cut a piece of cloth just larger. Used up the excess resin plus a little more. I really love the feel of the harness weave, it's a 10.9 oz cloth so it has a real solid, almost silky feel to it. Not to exciting to look at but it worked great in the boat. I have no idea what I will use the sheet for yet. I don't have enough of the same to cover the other side as its going into a 33 chev coupe my father is building. It was a good practice and the sheet has the nice texture of the weave to it.

[Fella1340]

I am looking for some opinions. I want to make sure these long rudder extensions stay nice and straight at speed and also stays together barrel rolling at full speed. It's not an "if" question but a when it happens. The pictures I took were some cobbled together pieces I had lying around. The finished product will have all arms uniformly machined up. The rudders will be mounted higher as well, almost an inch higher. The rudder stand offs will also be tied together. I need this to be functional as well look nice. Please share your thoughts, all feedback welcome!

[rickwess]

Would you be able to machine a triangular piece that would attach to the outboard side of each rudder brackets? That would help with the lateral forces. Each wedge could have a a vertical component that would mount to the transom and help with the longitudinal forces.

[Fella1340]

I could do something like that though I am growing found of the lateral support turn buckle whatever you want to call it. It's going up on top of the hull I wasn't sure of. The whole area is more than reinforced enough to handle any load it may see up there though. I will have all hardware mounted tommorow so I can start playing with different ideas and hopefully more will share thoughts once they see things inplace. Mounting a solid plate on the outside of the extension bracket would work well, I was thinking something a little more out there though. Not sure I see exactly what you mean though.
Please keep ideas coming in!

[Fella1340]

I am considering using this servo for my twin rudder setup. It comes with a heavy duty ball bearing top set eliminating the need for a separate load bearing assembly used in giant aircraft for rudder control. It has 377 once of tore at 7.4 volts. The distance between the rudder pivot arms isn't much greater then push/pull systems used on the big cats and has substantially more torque then most I see used sucessfully. I am also considering using two separate servos on a "Y" harness to feed both servos off one channel, hv as well. The power bottleneck in receiver is eliminated by the use of the gryphon power regulator I will be using to provide power to the servos. Each channel is capable of 10 amps. Using a high end, 12 bit high resolution servo on each rudder should provide precise movement. I was thinking having them completely separate but I could use an arm from rudder to rudder to make sure travel is exactly the same. Just some ideas I am throwing out there. I could really use some help before I just decide and order. Either way should work very well theoretically but experience may dictate otherwise. please help! I may put this question in the question area as I am not getting the feedback I was hoping for on the build. If there is a reason why please let me know
Rear cf transom plate is in. 5.5mm thick (2pcs laminated together) and gflex'd onto the 1/8" birch ply I had already installed. layout is complete on transom and I am mounting all the fun stuff today. Modifications to rudder assembly still needed to be able to use in a double setup. They are not designed to be used this way so a little work is needed. I look forward to your feedback. I am obviously not keeping things simple and the more I add the potential for failures increase. I have faith in the quality components available to us these days!

[Fella1340]

I got the transom drilled and fitted up with all the hardware. Everything turned out square, plumb, inline and A O.K. I spend hours doing the layout and double, triple checking everything. The holes are drilled out to their corresponding size, example a 3mm bolt hole is drilled 3mm. The clearance on the hardware side was more than enough for any adjustments. Things are in loose at the moment, time to start really planning the servo for stinger adjustment, servo for trim tab control and of course steering. It's needs to be compact to keep the motor as close to the rear as possible. It was a front heavy boat to begin with and I haven't helped that much! Please share any thoughts or experience you have.
A big thank you to Shawn (srislash) for all the help and advice he has given me. Without his knowledge and helping me gain the perspective I needed to make this happen. I would still be staring at these parts wondering where they should go, second guessing everything. He didn't even try to talk me out of my plans and goals for this boat! Thanks for your knowledge AND patience! Here are some photos. The bottom arms on the inside transom shot are for the servos
Adjustment. 30-35 degrees moment of them will give me all the travel I need, timing them exactly will be a bit of a challenge. They operate off a 3 start thread that pushes an oringed plunger in and out. There is zero backlash with this arrangement, one part of this build that should be straight forward!

[cacofonix]

very nice hull !!

where have you buy stinger ?

[Fella1340]

The stinger is available from kintec. The trim tabs here at OSE. Make plans for an 1/8 scale servo in the 40kg range for position holding when running, I am going to find out if that is enough!

[srislash]

Good work buddy. All looks straight and true.

[lenny]

Looks real nice,
But that is a lot of leverage hanging off the transom.

How long are those rudder brackets ?

[Fella1340]

Thanks Shawn, I appreciate it! Hi Lenniy, it is a huge amount of leverage! From transom to rudder trailing edge is 7". I kept it mind to when I did the build. Just. A little background on the build...The boat got 2" carbon fiber all around the boat from bow to transom at the seams ( 2 layers total 360 degrees around) The upper deck was also wrapped down onto the hull and the hull cf over layed up onto this. The transom was treated the same way the rest of the boat was and bottom, sides and top were wrapped on it kinda like a jig saw puzzle. There were a couple of spots that weren't covered but cf was used to bring everything to the same height. I spent a long time getting it the way I wanted as it was important to me that the transom be "one" with the bottom, sides and top of the boat. The transom got a layer of 1/8 birch ply gflex'd to the carbon layered transom and finally it got the carbon fiber plate gflef'd on. It was a layer of 3mm and 2.5mm cf laminated together and then attached to transom. It was quite the lengthy process. I have seen numerous race boats with extensions as long without the treatment this received. That said if you look at the earlier photos I am planning on spreading out the tremendous forces that are being put on the tiny rudder bracket itself. I am surprised not to see more of it out there. There's a ton of 3-4" rudder extensions being run out there, even ones that have a large "jog" to make the rudder itself offset. When I got back into boats I was surprised at a lot of the rudder mounts (almost all) but they. are being run with great success. I plan on tying the to rudder bracket together and make something similar to one of my earlier posts to spread the load. I believe regular running even when really pushing the boat the rudders will stand up well. My main thoughts for the addition of rudder bracket strengthening rods (or whatever I settle on, they will be to achieve the same thing) is to minimize the chances on bending things for the inevitable crash that will happen. The transom is a busy piece of real estate's it is and I would prefer to leave it as is (other than tying rudder brackets together) but I feel strongly it needs additional help to spread the loads off the tiny footprint where the join the transom. Those are my thoughts. Please bring any concern with this or anything else you you see to my attention. My background is machine building and I have built many things over the years but I am new to rc boats and could use all the help i can get to make this build successful. Sorry if I missed anything I am very tired today. Thanks for showing interest Lenny. I welcome your experience.
jeff