50" P1 Fountain mono build

[Fella1340]

Hello everyone, I have finally been able to start the boat build I have been planning for some time. Many thanks to the people that take the time to post there builds and take time to answer all the questions. I would not be attempting this build otherwise, so it really does make a difference!
The boat is a semi scale version of the p1 fountain offshore mono and I have always loved the way they look.
Here's what is going in it.
1. TP 5660, 820kv, 6wye motor running on 10s, likely a 2p setup
2. Swordfish 300 pro plus esc
3. Gryphon power regulator Gvr 7020s, Rather than a bec I opted for a power regulator used in the big 3d helicopters, it basically turns your rx into just a control unit and separate power (2s) is supplied to each servo independently. I will be using 3-4 hv servos in this build so it's relevance will be shown as I go. Overkill but I liked the concept of how they worked.
4. Servo controlled adjustable trim tabs, the same ones for sale at OSE. Excellent design and does no require a large servo to control. I will still be using a hv servo on it anyway
5. Servo controlled stinger. It's a nice looking stinger and adjustment is made through use of a cam. I will be using the savox digital SV-0236mg, 40kg of torque and some other nice features. Hopefully it will hold stinger position when running the boat. May need to increase mechanical advantage to do so but will try it based on original design first.
This boat is purely for sport running and I liked the idea of the adjustable trim tabs and adjustable stinger via a few pushes of a button on the transmitter. I added these in for fun. The trim tabs will work, the design is ideal. The stinger I have concerns with, it won't ruin my day at the lake as I can adjust them and lock position with set screws. The fact that this is included in the design really makes one wonder. I will leave it at that and post some pictures. Any thoughts or ideas are welcome (and needed!), especially ones that that can offer experience with some of the quirky things I have added here. Please don't hold back! I am going to post this and then work on figuring out attachments, thought I had that worked out!

[Fella1340]

Some pictures to get started. I first used a 2x2 twill weave carbon fiber and did the entire hull from transom to bow tip, a second layer went from just ahead of the hatch opening all the way to the tip again. Both layers also went up the sides to the topdeck. a layer of 5 harness weave was used from transom to past hatch area overlapping the second layer of twill that was applied upfront. I should mention that 2" 'tape" carbon fiber was used all the way around the boat seem before any of this happened. my idea at first was to do the entire top deck in kevlar for rx and gps signal. I used a twill fiberglass and a layer of twill kevlar on the whole top deck. Another layer of 2" carbon fiber around the seams again. I ended up adding a layer of carbon fiber on the entire topdeck to k transom only leaving it an inch back from the hatch. The kevlar comes all the way to the hatch lip area itself. Additional layers of cf were put on the topdeck where it meets the transom for another idea i may or may not use. The boat is incredibly rigid, it really surprised me how strong the hull now is. There was also the use of directional fiberglass in the hull bottom and a couple of other things added in places. The boat will be heavy, there's no avoiding that now. I had done some practice runs with all the materials and I was able to keep resin use to a minimum. Having the proper stuff really helped after reading countless posts learning all I could.







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[Fella1340]

I got some more done, made a bulkhead that goes almost to the tip. I made another piece for the hull tip a box like layered thing that fit the hull shape and used resin to secure it, also a small resin pour to fill tip, maybe 2 ounces of resin? I didn't get a photo of it! I lightened the main bulk head as best I could and used g flex to secure to keel. The bulk head was made about a 1/16" short of top deck. I used an automotive seam sealer to fill the 1/16 gap and put a generous fillet down each side. Hopefully it will.prevent possible cracking of the paint when it crashes on me. That will happen. It's awesome stuff but what a mess I made! Most of it on me. Bulkhead is secured and then some. I cut foam to fit both sides as close fitting as possible and then places a bullhead sealing everything in there nicely. The whole work involved in front of the hatch was a pita! Very time consuming. I wouldn't have believed these things take so long unless I had done the work myself! On to the transom next.

[kfxguy]

This thing is going to be awesome when you're done! What color are you painting it? You should be done with it next weekend, right? Lol

[Fella1340]

I hope it works out Ok. Paint is going to be black, silver on the sides and some type of detail down the middle and another colour not yet chosen to make it more visible on the water. Though it seems any colours look the same at any distance, just a dot with a big rooster tail behind it! At the pace I am moving at it will be lucky to see water by July:) Things are starting to roll now so it may be sooner. I was just collecting all the goodies together before I logged on. Took a picture so here they are, both motors are the same, one is the older style 5660 (5692) and the other is 5682. They shortened the motor and went to a different bearing that is smaller. I will be running the shorter new style but have to make new side pieces to accommodate the smaller length.

[Fella1340]

I forgot to add it will be twin rudder as well, should have a few challenges ahead of me with the choices I have made

[Rocstar]

I was wondering when you were going to get rolling on this.

[Fella1340]

Just had to recover from back surgery enough to crawl to the workshop. It's all good. Really excited about this and where it will go. The better I feel the more custom parts go in. It's going to be fun that's for sure.

[rickwess]

Looking forward to seeing this build progress. You guys with the ability and tools to make custom CF parts make me jealous.

[Fella1340]

The here is transom mocked up with stinger, rudders and the servo adjustable trim tabs. What are your thoughts on the rudders being behind the prop. The spacing is far enough a part that at maximum turn there is atleast 3/8" gap from rudder to prop/propwash area. I see a lot of guys run the rudder with the leading edge in line with the prop dog. Some run them further behind out of the prop wash area. I could really use some help on this. This is one of the major areas of concern for me. Advice needed!

[Fella1340]

Hey Rick, cutting and drilling carbon fiber isn't a lot more difficult than doing all that fancy wood work your doing. I have a mill and a lathe but most of what I will be doing is with a drill press and wood bandsaw I put a bi-metal blade on. A jig saw or little scroll saw works good to. I love the beltsander to smooth all my wavy cuts to. Don't forget the Dremel either. You must have some of these tools or you wouldn't be cranking out the nice wood work. Anything short of cnc stuff can be done by with hand tools, for the price of a half decent motor and esc you could have a little shop rocking. Even all this extra stuff I am throwing in this build will be done with basic tools. What problems are you having trying out work with carbon fiber? I found out that kevlar is my enemy. It takes patience to figure out how to get a smooth edge with no little hairs sticking it again everytime you turn your back! This is my first time working with any of this stuff other than practicing on shapes I found around the house and a 24" mono that was my first build. It was much nicer before the cf! The practice is paying off, combined with what I learned here and at KBB. You just have to go for it!

[srislash]

And the build begins publicly.

[rickwess]

Hey Rick, cutting and drilling carbon fiber isn't a lot more difficult than doing all that fancy wood work your doing. I have a mill and a lathe but most of what I will be doing is with a drill press and wood bandsaw I put a bi-metal blade on. A jig saw or little scroll saw works good to. I love the beltsander to smooth all my wavy cuts to. Don't forget the Dremel either. You must have some of these tools or you wouldn't be cranking out the nice wood work. Anything short of cnc stuff can be done by with hand tools, for the price of a half decent motor and esc you could have a little shop rocking. Even all this extra stuff I am throwing in this build will be done with basic tools. What problems are you having trying out work with carbon fiber? I found out that kevlar is my enemy. It takes patience to figure out how to get a smooth edge with no little hairs sticking it again everytime you turn your back! This is my first time working with any of this stuff other than practicing on shapes I found around the house and a 24" mono that was my first build. It was much nicer before the cf! The practice is paying off, combined with what I learned here and at KBB. You just have to go for it!

The lack of a band saw and the cost of the raw material. I can mess up all day long on 3/16" aircraft grade plywood and it only costs me $10.

Where do you buy your CF sheets? I have found this product from a company called Dragon Plate (http://www.dragonplate.com/ecart/categories.asp?cID=91). I like the idea of a matte finish and the textured side would be great for bonding. Still not cheap though.

[srislash]

The lack of a band saw and the cost of the raw material. I can mess up all day long on 3/16" aircraft grade plywood and it only costs me $10.

Where do you buy your CF sheets? I have found this product from a company called Dragon Plate (http://www.dragonplate.com/ecart/categories.asp?cID=91). I like the idea of a matte finish and the textured side would be great for bonding. Still not cheap though.

There is a place in Washington out west here Rick that is Fair ,Protech Composites. I have been hearing Ebay has some deals.

[Fella1340]

I can appreciate wanting to mess around in wood as it gets pricey, especially when you don't plan properly. I buy from Acpcomposite, USA company that has everything you can imagine. You can get there cf in matte finish and gloss, different weaves to choose from. A 1.5mm twill matte finish one side/gloss the other in a 12" x12" is going to run you about $60. There are cheaper places on ebay but I have my doubts of what's in between. Just layering some weave and joining with resin leaves an incredibly strong piece. This took 1 1/2 ounces of resin, most of which was rolled off and could have been used on the other side if I had done it. The light makes it appear glossy but it is matte and the surface finish is textured to the feel. It turned out excellent. I have enough plate to do my boat. When I build my whip 40 I will use this type for strengthening. Here's a pic of 1/8 birch ply with 5 harness weave cloth. The second picture shows a cut I made into it with a hacksaw. 4-5 strokes to travel almost 2 inches. Cut like butter with a clean edge. I cut a piece of 1.5mm carbon plate just as easy. I clamped a wood block on one side to support. So you don't need a bandsaw! I wanted to see how this worked to. None of the cuts required any real effort. A hack saw handle that leaves the blade end open is only a few dollars. Just showing it doesn't take much to make cf parts with a professional look once done. Let's see. Some cf plate in your boat Rick!