45" Dumas Scarab

[flraptor07]

Probably a few other ways to do this but the metal worked out well. I heated the tube with a propane torch and the metal came out pretty clean. With it still hot I shoved a packed paper towel plug through the tube and it cleaned any residue out.

With the tube held in position I can move the strut around and the flex cable is pretty free. Let me ask this. The flex cable has this open area between it and the tube. What can be done at the end of the tube to center the shaft and prevent grease from working it's way out? When I mount the motor I'll mount it so it centers the flex cable, but is there any sort of seal to use?

Not much you can do about that, some people use a piece of silicone water hose and put it over the stuff tube then push the cable through it. That usually makes a pretty good seal, and keep it packed with grease.

[Ken_NJ]

Figured so.

For securing the tube, I've seen JB Weld and Gflex used. What about Marine Tex? I have Gflex.

[flraptor07]

Figured so.

For securing the tube, I've seen JB Weld and Gflex used. What about Marine Tex? I have Gflex.

I've never used Gflex, but JB or Marine Tex would be fine. I saw a test on a full size boat with Marine Tex. They put it on a Gil Bracket then took the bolts out and ran the boat, 22' with a 225 Johnson. It's amazing stuff!

[Ken_NJ]

Any of them are probably OK. Went back to this post that Shawn pointed me to.

http://www.kbbforums.com/stuffing-tube-installation-mysteries-declassified-t227.html

[srislash]

Probably a few other ways to do this but the metal worked out well. I heated the tube with a propane torch and the metal came out pretty clean. With it still hot I shoved a packed paper towel plug through the tube and it cleaned any residue out.

With the tube held in position I can move the strut around and the flex cable is pretty free. Let me ask this. The flex cable has this open area between it and the tube. What can be done at the end of the tube to center the shaft and prevent grease from working it's way out? When I mount the motor I'll mount it so it centers the flex cable, but is there any sort of seal to use?

So the stuffing tube goes right into the strut? Or is it just exiting the hull and the cable runs free into the strut(all old school like).

If it runs into the strut a piece of heatshrink will do seal it.

If it is free run there is of course the old Teflon tube. On these bigger cables Teflon is pretty solid, mind you so is the cable. I don't know how much 'whip' could occur.

[Ken_NJ]

I was asking about the motor end. Something to keep the grease contained since there is a gap between the flex cable and the tube.

On the strut side, the tube fits perfectly into the strut. Inside the strut, there will be a gap between the stuffing tube and the bearing for grease. I could use heatshrink like you mentioned.

The flex cable is 1/4", the brass tube I used is 9/32. The brass tube that came with the Teflon liner is 5/16. So if I wanted to use the Teflon liner, I'd have to rip out the 9/32" one and replace it with the 5/16" tube. I'll stick with the 9/32 tube and plenty of grease. I have the motor, flex cable and stuffing tube lined up OK. Should be able to start gluing the stuffing tube in on Sunday. And then the motor.

[srislash]

Ahhh, sorry Ken, I was just rushing through the post as little time has been available. My bad. As flraptor said, the silicone tube works best but if you wanted to spend money on 'bling' there is a seal and I think Steve here has them now.

[srislash]

Hey Ken, just thought I would post this here. I found those seat bolsters, just scroll down a bit http://www.kehrer-modellbau.de/zubehoer/
And keep going through the pages.

[Ken_NJ]

Giving me some ideas on the seats. Still looking for the figures to use. Will have to go back to Walmart and look again.

[flraptor07]

Ken, this boat is beautiful I can't wait to see it in the water! In the right setting it'll look like a full scale....

[Ken_NJ]

Thanks, me too! Unfortunately this hull is not the same hull as in my avatar which I am modeling it after. The whole deck is different. Dumas made a 55" model which more closely resembles the 39' Scarab that Betty Cook had.

Have the strut mounted and glued the stuffing tube in with G Flex. Added a drop of pigment to whiten the G Flex. Created a dam and filled in the rest of the hole. Used Saran wrap on the bottom of the hole to contain the G Flex. Filled the outside of the hull with the Evercoat and sanded to shape.

[Ken_NJ]

Used G Flex again to glue in the motor mounts. First a coat on the bottom to glue in place. Then tilted the hull and poured glue on one side, tilted the other way to glue the other side. This created a fillet on either side of the mount. They are in there for good!

Drilled holes for the rudder and trim tabs. Should I try without the turn fins? Blurry pic.

Trail fit of the ESC on the motor. I might have to add an inch to one wire for it to reach the motor. Have to figure away to secure the ESC so it does not slide forward or backwards.

When I coated the Turbo vents with poly resin, they warped a bit. Had to add these stiffeners to straighten the side out. These Turbo vents will be glued to the hatch.

[flraptor07]

I've got the same configuration of motor/ESC mount in my 1/8 scale Hydro 10s 73mph so far, using two Velcro straps and the ESC has never moved. Nice job on the latest stuff BTW....

[Ken_NJ]

Thanks, yea I guess a little Velcro would do the trick. 73mph!! I think I would be happy around 40. Want this to be fun, and reasonable.

I tried silver soldering the flex cable, no matter what I tried never could get the solder to wick in, kept beading off. Have a local place ordering me some Loctite 603.

[srislash]

Thanks, yea I guess a little Velcro would do the trick.

I tried silver soldering the flex cable, no matter what I tried never could get the solder to wick in, kept beading off. Have a local place ordering me some Loctite 603.

Lots of Kester paste is the only way it has worked for me. OR... just glue it.