HPR 06 in Saudi Arabia

**bigtommy79** · 03-19-2014, 09:40 AM

Thanks Kent, appreciate your help as ever. I will keep investigating. Perhaps Manuel can confirm!?

**nata2run** · 03-19-2014, 09:51 AM

Tom, thinking even harder, I either used M2 straight up, or drilled the plate to M2 to fit. The reason is I have a few of them with lock nuts as well, all in stainless.

**ManuelW** · 03-27-2014, 10:11 AM

They are definitely M2 and have always been. As a hint, getting the nuts on from inside can be a pain in the ass. I do it now different, I simply bore a 1.6mm hole and cut a M2 thread directly in the laminate. Hull thickness is easily enough, works perfect for me so far and is easy to install.

regards,
Manuel

**nata2run** · 03-27-2014, 08:31 PM

That's a good tip Manuel!!! I did it the hard way first with the nuts attached, but brushed epoxy over the nuts once installed. Then I could unscrew and the nuts would still stay in place.

**tiqueman** · 03-27-2014, 09:32 PM

Originally posted by ManuelW

They are definitely M2 and have always been. As a hint, getting the nuts on from inside can be a pain in the ass. I do it now different, I simply bore a 1.6mm hole and cut a M2 thread directly in the laminate. Hull thickness is easily enough, works perfect for me so far and is easy to install.

regards,
Manuel

Exactly how i did mine.

Sorry i fell of the face of the earth. Got a lot going on.

@kent. I wish they were in bc at that point itd be about wrapped up. Lifes gettn in the way at the moment

**bigtommy79** · 03-29-2014, 08:05 AM

Good tip Manuel, wish i'd known that before drilling the holes though!
Making progress now, water pickups done and epoxy'd in place. Just need to fill and rub down where they exit the hull for a perfect finish. Will add a photo in a day or so when i have finished.
Epoxy'd the rudder tubes in place yesterday, wasn't as difficult as I was expecting.
Hatch bolts all drilled and sorted. I cut some carbon fibre into triangle shapes to re-inforce the corners of the hatch too. Seems to have worked well.
Next job is to loctite the drives and fit the motor mounts.hatch reinforce.jpg rudder tubes.jpg

**bigtommy79** · 03-31-2014, 09:35 AM

Water pickups now installed.
I covered the area to be cut with masking tape and marked out the area.
Drilled a series of holes and filled the opening until it was the correct size.
Tacked the pick ups in place with CA and then completed the installation with some epoxy. All went well but in future I would position the pick ups 2-3mm further out It would make the installation much easier and give me more space to fit the tubing.
Just need to fill and sand the underside of the hull where the water pick up exits to make the water pick up 1.jpgpick ups dead flush with the hull.

**bigtommy79** · 04-09-2014, 09:11 AM

Made some more progress, glued the flexshafts into the prop shafts, used some 2710 loctite that Manuel supplied me.
Also trial fitted the motors and the servo mount plate. Startign to look good!
This weekend, I am planning to cut and fit the stuffing tubes, flexshafts etc.m mount.jpg mount 2.jpg mount.jpg

**bigtommy79** · 04-09-2014, 11:08 AM

Here are a couple more pictures.
Has anyone used Loctite 2710 for fixing the flexshafts? Manuel says it is fine so I have no doubts, most people on this forum seem to use 648 though. Comments welcome!Motor 1.jpg Motor 2.jpg Shafts.jpg

**bigtommy79** · 04-10-2014, 05:32 AM

I have a question, hopefully someone can answer.
I need to order some electrical cable - the wires on the ESC are not long enough to connect to the motors properly.
What gauge wire should I be using for this, any ideas?
Is there a maximum length the cables should be?
Thanks!

**ManuelW** · 04-10-2014, 05:17 PM

Hey,

can you take a picture, just dont have in my memory if you went for the T180 or the 250A 8S ESC from Jochen but on both motor wires should be long enough in my opinion? Apart from that you should be fine with 10AWG, 8AWG would be best. Cable length between ESC and motor is not really important at all, just use good connectors and do the solder joints properly.

regards,
Manuel

**bigtommy79** · 04-11-2014, 09:41 AM

More progress, I have trial fitted one motor, cut the flexshaft and stuffing tubes to length and assembled the stuffing tube supports that Kent kindly gave me as a sample.
Very pleased with how it is coming on now.
Need to order some batteries, charger and radio system now. Does anyone know who can ship batteries to Saudi Arabia?motor mount close up.jpg stuff tube supp 2.jpg stuuf tube supp 1.jpg with ruler.jpg

**bigtommy79** · 04-11-2014, 10:04 AM

Here are a few more shots of one of the motors trial fitted. Very pleased with progress now.
Next job will be to wrap the stuffing tubes in cf cloth.prop shafts and motor.jpg trial fit 1.jpg trial fit 2.jpg

**bigtommy79** · 04-11-2014, 10:35 AM

Hi Manuel,
Yes I think the wires will be long enough. I made a mistake when working out how it will all fit together.
I will take some more photos and post how I am planning to fit the ESCs. I went for the flier 250A in the end, decided to spend the extra money.
This may be a stupid question, but do I need an aerial or will the radio signals go through the hull, can anyone tell me the answer? Does it make a difference if I have a Kevlar hatch?
Tom

**Livewire121** · 04-11-2014, 10:46 AM

Yes you'll need to install a vertical antenna. Having a kevlar hatch does allow for the signal to pass thru the hatch cover, but I wouldn't run without the antenna outside of the hull. The good thing about the kevlar hatch is that you use a gps unit inside of the hull, thats how I run my HPR 115.