HPR 06 in Saudi Arabia

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  • nata2run
    customcfparts.com
    • Nov 2011
    • 1837

    #16
    Thank you Tom, kindly said. If you have the time and can be bothered, I would strip those red servo pulls and polish to chrome. Also based on your ESC's size (remember to cut those aluminium spacers) you should be able to fit the servo under the top plate. It does look a bit better that way and you also lower the servo a bit, which will help you to align the pull/pull setup. Good luck with the build, its going to look amazing!!

    Pull pull top1.jpg
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    "Follow someone's footsteps and you will always be a step behind"

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    • bigtommy79
      Member
      • Jan 2013
      • 54

      #17
      Finally got the hull through Saudi customs, so sorry for the long time between posts. I'm very impressed with the hull, it is certainly top quality. Having never seen a "bulletproof" hull before I was expecting it to be much heavier, not a complaint just an observation.
      All the hardware that came with the hull from HPR is very impressive too. The quality of the components is really exceptional, I just hope I can do the build justice.
      Does anyone have tips on how to hold the nuts inside the hull when fitting the drives? My hands seem way to big to be able to get inside the hull. Is there an easy way of doing this?111220131044.jpg111220131046.jpg111220131051.jpg111220131054.jpg111220131055.jpg

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      • bigtommy79
        Member
        • Jan 2013
        • 54

        #18
        Here are some more pics of the Hull....111220131046g.jpg111220131056.jpg131220131058.jpg

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        • nata2run
          customcfparts.com
          • Nov 2011
          • 1837

          #19
          Looks very nice. I miss the bulletproof 115!! I use either a screwdriver with a bit of silicone tube on the end to hold the nut in place or my pair of sergic clamps. Good luck with the build, let me know if I can be of any help. I do have a 115 build thread on here that may help installing the plate and other parts.
          Visit www.customcfparts.com | Custom Boat Building | Custom Carbon Fiber Parts | Custom Graphics | LMT Premium Dealer | MGM Premium Dealer | YouTube | Facebook
          "Follow someone's footsteps and you will always be a step behind"

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          • bigtommy79
            Member
            • Jan 2013
            • 54

            #20
            Sorry for the long time between posts, I have been very busy with work and other things.
            However, some progress has been made the last few days. The drives are now installed, as are the hydraulics for the rudder. I found the brass stuffing tube was exactly the right size for marking out the hydraulic brackets. The Rudder mounting bolts are now installed too. I have to enlarge the holes for the rudder to get the alignment just right. Now I just need to do the epoxy pour. Is 12mm the right volume to use? does anyone have any tips for this? I'm hoping to do the pour next weekend if Irudder 1.jpgrudder 2.jpgrudder 3.jpgrudder 4.jpgrudder 5.jpg can find some slow cure epoxy. It is proving difficult to find here unfortunately, can only get rapid cure in the hardware shops.

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            • tiqueman
              Fast Electric Addict!
              • Jul 2009
              • 5669

              #21
              Looking good Tommy. Have a look at my 135 build thread. Im pretty sure i mentioned how i do my hpr rudders. As long as the fast cure is quality it will be fine. Just do not pour in one layer and apply each layer soon after the previous has gelled and not fully cured. Just pay attention to heat and you will be fine.
              Geico epoxy laminate hatch sale thread Black Jack epoxy laminate hatch sale thread
              HPR06 6S Twin HOTR Genesis (SOLD) Vantex 32" cat Geico racing
              WEST FL MODEL BOAT CLUB www.scottskiracing.com

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              • nata2run
                customcfparts.com
                • Nov 2011
                • 1837

                #22
                Looking good!! I think 12-15ml of epoxy was what I did. I used the 24h epoxy though, as I was worried about heat but I'm sure it can be done with faster curing epoxy also. I poured the epoxy before I drilled the holes. What you're doing should be fine as long as you can align the tubes. Are you using CA glue to tack them in?
                Visit www.customcfparts.com | Custom Boat Building | Custom Carbon Fiber Parts | Custom Graphics | LMT Premium Dealer | MGM Premium Dealer | YouTube | Facebook
                "Follow someone's footsteps and you will always be a step behind"

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                • tiqueman
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • Jul 2009
                  • 5669

                  #23
                  Sorry, I was looking at the thread from my phone and missed the pic where you already have the tubes for the rudder bracket bolts cut and ready. Just make sure you seal up as best you can when you epoxy to keep runs to a minimum. If you have access to some clay it works great to black resin. Any voids from the clay you can fill from the outside when the inside is all set. Back it with a quality tape though too.
                  Geico epoxy laminate hatch sale thread Black Jack epoxy laminate hatch sale thread
                  HPR06 6S Twin HOTR Genesis (SOLD) Vantex 32" cat Geico racing
                  WEST FL MODEL BOAT CLUB www.scottskiracing.com

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                  • nata2run
                    customcfparts.com
                    • Nov 2011
                    • 1837

                    #24
                    @ Scott don't you have a whole bunch of work to do yourself?? Lol. If you haven't glued in your lipo system, windscreen adhesive is awesome and stronger than silicone.
                    Visit www.customcfparts.com | Custom Boat Building | Custom Carbon Fiber Parts | Custom Graphics | LMT Premium Dealer | MGM Premium Dealer | YouTube | Facebook
                    "Follow someone's footsteps and you will always be a step behind"

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                    • bigtommy79
                      Member
                      • Jan 2013
                      • 54

                      #25
                      Thanks for the comments tiqueman and nata2run. What I am trying to do is glue in the tubes.
                      I have tacked the tubes onto the bolts with some CA so the tubes are touching the bolt head.
                      Plan is to glue the tubes in place, undo the bolts, put a couple of washers on the bolt and re fit the bolt. Hopefully the thickness of the 2 washers will be enough to pull the rudder frame hard up against the hull when I tighten the bolts.
                      Is this the right plan?

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                      • bigtommy79
                        Member
                        • Jan 2013
                        • 54

                        #26
                        I hope someone can help with this.
                        Can anyone tell me the size of the very small nuts and bolts that are used to secure the rudder hydraulic brackets to the hull? Are they M1.6 or smaller?
                        Also what is the size of the bolts securing the drives to the hull, are they M3 or M4?
                        Does anyone know an online store where I can buy nuts and bolts like this?
                        Thank you!

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                        • nata2run
                          customcfparts.com
                          • Nov 2011
                          • 1837

                          #27
                          M2 for rudder and m3 for drives, not sure about online store but make sure it's stainless.
                          Visit www.customcfparts.com | Custom Boat Building | Custom Carbon Fiber Parts | Custom Graphics | LMT Premium Dealer | MGM Premium Dealer | YouTube | Facebook
                          "Follow someone's footsteps and you will always be a step behind"

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                          • nata2run
                            customcfparts.com
                            • Nov 2011
                            • 1837

                            #28
                            Sorry by rudder I mean the hydraulic mounts, the rudder itself is m3 :-)
                            Visit www.customcfparts.com | Custom Boat Building | Custom Carbon Fiber Parts | Custom Graphics | LMT Premium Dealer | MGM Premium Dealer | YouTube | Facebook
                            "Follow someone's footsteps and you will always be a step behind"

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                            • bigtommy79
                              Member
                              • Jan 2013
                              • 54

                              #29
                              Thanks Kent,

                              Surely the hydralic mounts are smaller than m2. They are tiny, they must be something like m1.6 or m1.4?
                              Here is a photo of exactly what I mean...Hydraulic Bolt.jpg

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                              • nata2run
                                customcfparts.com
                                • Nov 2011
                                • 1837

                                #30
                                Tom, I'm 95% sure I used m2, I can't check because I don't have the hydraulics on mine
                                Visit www.customcfparts.com | Custom Boat Building | Custom Carbon Fiber Parts | Custom Graphics | LMT Premium Dealer | MGM Premium Dealer | YouTube | Facebook
                                "Follow someone's footsteps and you will always be a step behind"

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