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When I say Space Shuttle, I mean: Hit the throttle and the thing jumps five feet into the air. WAY overpowered.
Remember, there is no cooling, so the temps are right there.A nation of sheep breeds a government of wolvesComment
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Good point on the cooling. And since it is an outrunner, you can't really wrap the case in copper pipe.
There are a few inrunners from HobbyCity with cooling jackets, so maybe I will try one of them in the MP with one of the HC watercooled ESC's (they have them in 30A and 60A flavors). Or maybe on the MSC instead... not sure which would be the better boat to try it on. Heck maybe I'll try it on the MTH.
Well, I guess you could not punch the throttle so hard.. that might keep it in the water on launch :)
Edit:
So which link is it, and which boat is it?Comment
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After last weekend's full-speed, head-on collision, I was looking over the boat to find any damage (there was none), and I noticed a small amount of flex at the motor mount. The mount is firmly attached to the hull bottom, and that was the source of the flex. The thin plywood of the center bulkhead where the motor mount supports attach does not provide any support in the bending mode. Plywood is great in shear, compression, and tension, but lacking in bending.
All future builds MUST reinforce the tunnel floor in the motor mount area with fiberglass or CF mat. Prototype 2 will use the CF mat. In order to stiffen prototype #1, I added some small CF rod that ties the top of the motor mount to a rigid area on the center bulkhead.A nation of sheep breeds a government of wolvesComment
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Building Prototype #2
Slip one motor mount on one of the support brackets, then the other motor mount making it "double thickness". Be sure "Up" is up. Do this with the other support bracket. Note that everything is a tight fit and you may need to hit the sides of the brackets with some fine sandpaper to get the tabs to slip into the holes. Don't get carried away here, just a light touch is all that's needed. When everything looks good and square, hit it with a drop of thin CA. Glue this assembly to the bulkhead. Make sure you have it on the correct side of the bulkhead and that everything is square.
I like to put the bulkhead on a piece of glass, then put the supports in the appropriate slots and hit it with a drop of CA. Then, you can slip a single-edge razor along the glass and it just pops off. This works in other places on the framework as well. Glue the front crossmembers together. Glue the stringers onto the bulkhead. Glue the front crossmember assembly to the stringers. Glue the transom on, and finally, glue the center stringer on.
To determine the length of the stuffing tube: First, use a small rat-tail file to file out the I.D. of the tube to fit the bearing. File on the thick side of the tube. Next, fit the bearing, then the shaft and insert the stuffing tube assembly into the framework until the prop shaft hits the motor shaft. Mark the tube and trim it so that only 1/16" or so goes past the bulkhead. The transom doublers and turn fin doublers will come later.A nation of sheep breeds a government of wolvesComment
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Do you foresee any changed happening to the formers? (ie, should i wait for the next rev?)Comment
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KK.
I'm placing my boat order tonight. I'll send you payment for the formers tmrw at some point.Comment
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Here is the template for cutting the stuffing tube hole in the hull. For the few that have prototype #1 frames, the hole is centered in the hull. This drawing reflects the "offset" drive.
Print the template to scale, cut it out and put the transom edge on the transom inside the hull. Mark the stuffing tube location on the tunnel floor and cut out the hole.Last edited by Dr. Jet; 08-27-2008, 09:36 AM.A nation of sheep breeds a government of wolvesComment
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nice, thanks for that.
I ordered 5 boats last night, two hydros, two MP's and one MSC. Yes, the MSC is supposed to be the faster boat, but I think the others look nicer, and I plan on hitting these with the airbrush and when not in use they will sit on a shelf somewhere in the apartment so they need to be esthetically pleasing.
I'll paypal you tonight for 2 former sets.
random question, how big of a boat would this motor require?
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...r_(WaterCooled)Comment
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I figured that would help the builders with an often "challenging" task.
Good question, I don't have much experience with them. That said, something like a Campbell Hydro, or maybe an SV-27-sized hull would be where I would start. Maybe the 22" Vortex hydro Steve has listed on this site.A nation of sheep breeds a government of wolvesComment
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I received my new Solinger Micro Turn Fin today!
Thanks Joe for the VERY plesant surprise!
I have all the necessary bits to assemble Prototype #2, either in my possession, or "in the mail". Some of the revisions I will do are to move the servo forward for balance, maybe do the same with the receiver. I want to be able to take more weight off the prop. I will spend a bit more effort making it look good and I think I will paint it as the (can you guess??) the "Short Circuit" Turbine.
Hey, Darin does everything as Oh Boy Oberto, why not do my fleet as Chuck Thompson's boat?
I have some over-the-top ideas on making the MTH look really cool. Randy's tape-down sub-hatch gives me some ideas.
Stay tuned........A nation of sheep breeds a government of wolvesComment
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Post some new pictures please, check out my bobkat save those scraps thread I have like 70 pictures although some border on redundant.Peter Eells; Fun, and Helping others To Have Fun!!!
http://rcboatsbypetere.blogspot.com/
[email protected]Comment
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Randy shipped the hulls the other day. I expect them to arrive today or tomorrow. I'll post more photos when they arrive.
I want this build to be crystal clear so those who have frame sets can follow them without a glitch.A nation of sheep breeds a government of wolvesComment
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Ya, I can't wait for my hulls to get here...Comment
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