Phil Thomas Supersport 45

[phil t]

Flipping my bracket and rudder to the right side of rudder. Friggin set screws stripped. They were very tight. What's the secret to loosening these without stripping them? No machine shops close enough for me to have them drill the set screws out and re tap them. $40.00 down the drain.

If the rudder is a Speedmaster the steel pin is not notched. Set the bracket on something solid and use a punch to tap it out. The screws shoulnt be tight then, you should be able to work them out..

[worriedsick4u]

Thanks Phil. Thanks for the awesome hull.

[phil t]

Canard template/dry fit. I've seen these in numerous set ups. I was told to give it as much down draft as possible so the nose stays down at high speeds. That's a 28.8 degree which I believe is good. Any thoughts before I cut the canard and apply it?[ATTACH=CONFIG]72734[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]72735[/ATTACH]

That wide wing is special, it is one piece epoxyglass with a foam core, not like the two canard wings that are glued into the sponons and nose. You could make that wing adjustable with some small nylon angles, and not glue it to the nose, Goldberg models sell the angles for aircraft.
IF you epoxy the wing on, cut slots in the sponsons and glue the wing into the slots. If not, the joint will crack and your wing will fall off. You can glue the back of the wing to the top of the nose,and notch the nose not the wing.

Post some pictures of your battery and motor position to get it balanced ok.
I wish I have one setup FE myself, I have a UL motor and esc in one of my 30 inch Stealth.

[worriedsick4u]

Already cut and fit. I did cut the sponsons and have approximately 3/16" inserted in them. Just have to fill and sand. Ordered another Speedmaster rudder. Will try the punch this time. I set everything in it earlier and found COG 18 5/8" from transom. So basically it should balance on COG fully loaded. Right?
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[worriedsick4u]

I got the new rudder and this one came apart with no problems. I centered the stuffing tube box and centered my holes for adjustment. Drilled and mounted the box. I tried something that came to me late one night. Instead of drilling 2 holes and using a dremel, I ran a 1/4" drill bit through the box and through the boat. Cleaned it up with a file and the stuffing tube fits very snug. After paint it won't take much epoxy to set it. Also set canard and filled as needed.
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[worriedsick4u]

Mock motor, battery and ESC set up. ESC is gonna have to ride on the batts. Any ideas?
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[LarrysDrifter]

Are you going to bush down the stuffing box to fit the 1/4" stuffing tube? I notice that 1/4" tubing flops around in the box...

[worriedsick4u]

Yes. I've already made one. Nice boxes, huh?

[LarrysDrifter]

Yes they are. Thanks for the link. Im thinking about using the zerk fitting for greasin the flex. Ive got a Neu 1527/1.5/D in my 34" Insane mono, and its a beast. This motor would rock in the PTSS45!

[phil t]

Those aluminum boxes are too much work to line up i would think. If you install the box before the motor mount how is it lined up perfectly with no friction?
I always get the strut mounted and the motor mounted then cut a slot for the tube.
I just use a short tube one size larger that is glued into the hull, the shaft tube can slide into that and be removed with out messing up alignments.
With the shaft up thru the motor collet, using a short brass tube shim that fits on the cable and into the shaft tube the alignment is done. I tack in the tube with ca then tape up the slot on the bottom and fill good epoxy.

IM sure your setup will work ok, just more parts to line up.

[worriedsick4u]

When buying the mount you have an option of buying the alignment tool with the mount. For a couple extra bucks it's worth it. Lines up nice and good. And pretty much friction free. Thanks for following the thread and giving me the much needed advice. I appreciate it.009.jpg

[phil t]

When buying the mount you have an option of buying the alignment tool with the mount. For a couple extra bucks it's worth it. Lines up nice and good. And pretty much friction free. Thanks for following the thread and giving me the much needed advice. I appreciate it.[ATTACH=CONFIG]73122[/ATTACH]

Looks good more than one way to do it. What size cable will you use?

[worriedsick4u]

A hughey .187 . What's your thoughts?

[ksm2001]

Nice work! I like the grease Zerk idea, now you got me going on adding it to mine, thanks.

I agree with Phil on using a tube epoxied in place then the stuffing tube inside, if anything should happen to the stuffing tube you just R&R with another one. Take a look at my album, I have a pic with the bottom showing mine if it helps. I bolted the strut and rudder in mine first then ONLY set the outer tube, stuffing tube, stuffing tube block (which has a fixed angle),flex cable tightened to the coupler and motor with motor mount all connected as one unit. I then marked the exact motor mount angle and holes for the stuffing tube block then drilled. This made for a perfect alignment. The 1/4" hole you drilled will be good for now so things don't bind while adjusting to fit if you decide to use my way. Once its all mounted in place you just have to epoxy the slotted area and remove the block and stuffing tube before paint.

Phil, I like the extended canard that goes across to both sides of the sponsons to help keep the nose down even more than the 2 piece. On my hull I have the 2 piece canards that mount to the nose so I filled the hollow core with west systems epoxy to be able to bolt a pair of extended spoilers to create more down force with out adding weight to the hull if needed.

Larry the 1527 1.5D and 1Y make this hull FLY very nice, it still scares me when I hit some chop at 60+mph but right after that it amazes me every time how it can handle it. So are you getting the itch to start yours?


Keep the pics and build info coming.

Ken

[ksm2001]

A hughey .187 . What's your thoughts?

That's whats in mine.