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cool, so you could heat shape it. I've worked with both and plexi chips and cracks quite a bit. I've yet to see lexan crack or split
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Yes it seems like they both have same or similar properties when heating and shaping. When heated both were same, when cold the plex was more brittle like u said, and the lex it said you could use regular wood bits and cutting tools. Looks like lexan is easier to work with when cold, cutting, drilling, ect..Comment
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well no turnig back now! im getting another hatch for insurance when i do some speed runs. i got yelled at for running the dremmel in the study and its gettin late so till tomorrow ill start working on cutting up the hatch. boat windshield pics 022.jpgboat windshield pics 021.jpgComment
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Keeping the Water Out
Precisely because Lexan is so flexible, windows made from Lexan are notoriously difficult to keep sealed. Plexiglass windows are less likely to develop leaks.
Scratch Resistance
Because Lexan is relatively soft, it scratches far more quickly that Plexiglass. Even saltwater spray will cause enough damage to eventually obscure a window made from Lexan.
UV Resistance
Lexan is less resistant to ultraviolet (UV) light and degrades more quickly than Plexiglass.
Price
Lexan costs up to 30 percent more than Plexiglass. Moreover, because it deteriorates more quickly than Plexiglass, it will need to be replaced more often.
In Short
In marine glazing applications where strength is critical--such as fitting windows and ports on a blue-water vessel--Lexan may be more appropriate than Plexiglass. In these situations, however, boaters should also consider tempered and laminated glass. For most recreational marine applications, Plexiglass is sufficiently strong, requires less maintenance, lasts longer and is less expensive.Comment
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I like it Coop,you are gonna have to run some interior lights.Comment
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wow, NICE... how did you cut it so clean ? did you have to file a bunch ?Comment
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Thanks, I spent a lot of time marking out the lines. Pretty hard to measure complicated convex curves with a straight edge and calipers. I dremmeled the corners then close to edges. New sharp cutting bit and steady hand. I got my corners first then with lots of eyeballing and some filling I ground down the sides to match. I do have a question for you, I've never painted or cleared cf before. How should I prep? Sand down with 400, 600, 1000? Then clear?Comment
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now this was the hard part. i got 99% of the holes lined up, its that 1% that makes the whole thing look bad. but i dont think it will be noticable. lots of measuring .Comment
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i started some paint prep work, but you can see for the most part what she will look like. i need to pick up some more bolts tomorrow, and they really dont add that much weight. the bolts are just slid into the holes so they are not flush or down the whole way.
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Thats sick man... If I ever need one of these done I'm gonna send it to youComment
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That means a lot! Thanks man! Originally I was planing on six windows, with five columns. As I started marking it out it seemed like the two windows towards the back were going to be pretty small. I think they would have been overshadowed by the hardware. I dont know, what do you think? I'm going to come up with something, paint or something, trim? Something like that to fill in the area where the window depression is towards the back if I don't cut another window. I dont think I should cut the back windows in, I think it looks good now.?? Any ideas....Comment
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Iv got an idea, I'll be back in about ten minuets,Comment
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i thought something like this purely for aesthetics, the one would be blackened in the channels and polished on the tops and sides, the other idea just polished. no bolts just attached. almost looking like a canopy vent of some sort.
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Where are you finding this stuff? That looks great Cooper.I love the hardware and totally think another window would be too much.What are you going to use for clear?I used U-pol #1 on my Shocker
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It turned out pretty good.Comment
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