Larrys INSANE 34

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  • LarrysDrifter
    Big Booty Daddy
    • May 2010
    • 3278

    #46
    I dont think the turning issue is with the drive dog gap or thrust point. So far, the concensus from other 1st gen I.B. 34 owners is the long strakes. Most have sanded them down a bit, or completely removed the last 7". Ill be running the boat again this Sunday in a big lake with plenty of room, and Ill have all day to tune. If I cant resolve the problem with tuning, Ill remove the strakes the same as the others have. As far as the flex, I do have a 3/16" gap as do all my boats, and its worked for me.
    I will post more pics tonite. Id like to get opinions on the stinger length. I know where the prop goes in relation to the rudder, but Id have to cut ALOT off the stinger to shorten it. Wonder if this is helping to contribute to the turning issue? Right now, the drive dog ears are damn near flush the the back edge of the rudder.

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    • rearwheelin
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • Oct 2008
      • 1941

      #47
      Originally posted by Rumdog
      The cable needs room to compress, it's pretty simple
      And show me you cable compression data chart !! The inner cables are straight strands that will compress if they did not have a wrap around them to hold them in place... It's also the stuffing tube design that can make or break a setup .... I minimize forces in stuffing tube area my goal is making the stuffing tube a guide rather than a place of force is why liners are not good for your boats because the gap will heat the liner up and may cause it to blow out after the liner melts and grabs the cable.... Linerless is the way to go when running gaps....... There there is 1mm or less gap on my boats but then that would depend on cable length right !? In larrys case I would push the drive dog all the way against thrust washers and tighten collet....... Dam you always got me on the defensive and it doesn't really even matter if someone wants to give this a shot, I'm not the onlyone who thrusts with the transom.... Look at a real offshore boat , do they thrust with the motor or are forces at the transom ..... Whatever
      "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex... It takes a touch of genius - and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction."
      --Albert Einstein

      Comment

      • Rumdog
        Fast Electric Addict!
        • Mar 2009
        • 6453

        #48
        Lol.. Anything else you need to get off your chest?

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        • rearwheelin
          Fast Electric Addict!
          • Oct 2008
          • 1941

          #49
          Originally posted by Rumdog
          Lol.. Anything else you need to get off your chest?
          Ha ha ha ha ... Dan you mo foo got me again !!
          "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex... It takes a touch of genius - and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction."
          --Albert Einstein

          Comment

          • RandyatBBY
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • Sep 2007
            • 3915

            #50
            Randy I have to agree with you. All my struts are set up to take the thrust on the bearing and transfer to the transom and not on the motor mount in the center of the boat. The wind up is a little less than the diameter of the flex shaft for spacing between the drive dog and the bearing.
            Randy
            For ABS, Fiberglass, Carbon hulls and Stainless hardware
            BBY Racing

            Comment

            • rearwheelin
              Fast Electric Addict!
              • Oct 2008
              • 1941

              #51
              Cause according to my cable stretch data chart my cable must not shrink like the rest ! Every detail counts right ?
              "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex... It takes a touch of genius - and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction."
              --Albert Einstein

              Comment

              • rearwheelin
                Fast Electric Addict!
                • Oct 2008
                • 1941

                #52
                Originally posted by RandyatBBY
                Randy I have to agree with you. All my struts are set up to take the thrust on the bearing and transfer to the transom and not on the motor mount in the center of the boat. The wind up is a little less than the diameter of the flex shaft for spacing between the drive dog and the bearing.
                Thanks Randy ! I would just hate to see a beautiful boat sanded ugly without try out the smaller gap thing
                "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex... It takes a touch of genius - and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction."
                --Albert Einstein

                Comment

                • Greg Schweers
                  GREG SCHWEERS
                  • Oct 2007
                  • 92

                  #53
                  I raced the first generation boat one time, and then started cutting 2" off the strakes to the point where they are now on the second generation boat. If you already added an extra layer of cloth in the genI boat, you'd have no problem shortening them to the genII length. As for a prop, I would stick with X-Series Octura and ABC-47x63 or 50x60. These props are non-lifting. If you run a lifting prop you're just going to drive the nose down. Plus, this boat likes rectangle shaped turn fins. I like to keep the CG back, that way when it starts chimewalking I can put a little trim tab in and correct the chimewalking. Changing the gap on the strut on this boat is going to affect nothing on this boat. I run close to 1/8" gap, and teflon liner (monos only). If you're having trouble putting the hoses on the 240 controller, just use silicone spray on the outside of the hose and they'll pop right on.

                  Comment

                  • LarrysDrifter
                    Big Booty Daddy
                    • May 2010
                    • 3278

                    #54
                    Thanks, Greg. I spent the better part of this past sunday trying to get this boat ironed out. I set the fins to 2 3/4" depth per Carls suggestion, and it did help a bit, but she still rolls/bounces in the turns. Im going to try one more day of tuning before I begin to shorten the strakes. I tried a handful of props along with my GPS for some speed runs. My biggest prop is an ABC thats 48mm x 1.8 pitch and it didnt even tax the electronics at all. Motor was 110 degrees, esc topped at 121 degrees. Max amp pulled was still at 182. Top speed with the ABC was 55.1, which was a bit dissapointing. I think the best prop was an X447/3 with no mods. I do have an X450/3, X452/3, and an X455/3, but they need to be done up yet. I have a couple youtube videos posted from Sunday, but they are short and the longest one didnt download for some reason. Look up my username on youtube...its FEnut7. Im still learning with the youtube thing and making a decent video. As far as the esc, I installed new aluminum cooling lines with some slight tweaks to better fit the silicone lines. If I get home tonight at a decent time, Ill post a couple pics.

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