Larrys INSANE 34

[riptide1]

Larry, how much clearance between the esc and hatch will you have?

[LarrysDrifter]

Not much. Ill guess between 1/4" and 3/8". Shes pretty tight. Ill try to get some pics up later.

[LarrysDrifter]

I finally got back on this build after a while of being un-motivated. My friend Suckmywake (Bob) cut my rails from 1/8" ply and I took care of the rest. These are shorty style because Im going to make a battery retention system similar to Properchoppers but with my own twist on it. Ill post some pics of the battery hold down thing later after I get going with it. This is my 1st build with rails, and I can say they make it a pain to work on things and limit easy access, but it could also be the syle I have going and being they are tall too. I fought with the stuffing tube to get it spot on. I think I made 4 different ones until I finally got it where I want it.

[properchopper]

I finally got back on this build after a while of being un-motivated. My friend Suckmywake (Bob) cut my rails from 1/8" ply and I took care of the rest. These are shorty style because Im going to make a battery retention system similar to Properchoppers but with my own twist on it. Ill post some pics of the battery hold down thing later after I get going with it. This is my 1st build with rails, and I can say they make it a pain to work on things and limit easy access, but it could also be the syle I have going and being they are tall too. I fought with the stuffing tube to get it spot on. I think I made 4 different ones until I finally got it where I want it.

Rails are rather touchy to get everything lined up before the glue-down. Definitely takes a lot of lining up & pre-fitting bit the final result is worth the effort. Helps to take one's time ! Your CF looks great, and LOVE those trim tabs

[LarrysDrifter]

Got the motor plumbing done. I do like the motor/esc in the rear. Makes for less cooling lines running everywhere and keeps the water pressure high too. I mounted the thru-hull water fittings on the transom and the outlets on the deck in the rear. Came out nice and clean and I can see the water shooting up instead of fighting to see it coming from the transom. I also dont like water outlets on the sides, just looks crappy to me. I like everything to stay centered in the hull if at all possible.
I began plumbing the esc, but one bad thing about the new Hydra Ices is the water lines they install are too close together, so I decided to tweak them a bit so both silicone lines will go on. As I did this, two of the aluminum lines popped off and the other two broke, so I made my own and used a bender to tweak them how I wanted them. Im not 100% satisfied with the brass job I did, so Ill probably make more in the near future.
The servo is mounted nice and high and I can get to the bolts retaining it easily with a ball end driver. The servo is perfectly aligned with the rudder arm so the steering rod needs no bend in it. Something else I was shooting for was a straight rod for the steering. I used brass for the thru-hull penetration and used the bellow on the inside for a clean look.

[LarrysDrifter]

Another thing I forgot to mention on the last post of the last pic is the hatch just BARELY touches the silicon lines on the esc. No biggie though as taping the hatch will take care of it. I do need to elongate the 2 bolt holes at the front of the rails to lower the wire end of the motor just a bit, so that will probably take care of it.

[LarrysDrifter]

Thanks, Tony. Im building this with a lot of help from you, whether you know it or not. Im always refering to your own build thread for reference. I appreciate your help and your build thread. The CF came out okay. It was my first time using it and it was a pain. Ive used it one more time after on a buddies build and it went in better. I ordered the boat layed up double thick all the way around, so I doubt the CF was needed, but I like the way it looks with the red.

[properchopper]

A few years ago at RCX, Jan and I talked to Patrick at RCX. I showed him how the cooling tubes on the Hydra 240 were too close together to slide both cooling lines on, and that the shrink wrap needed to be trimmed away from the tube inlets. He said he'd address that. Yeah, right !

When I built my IB 34 and mounted the T-180 with an Etti cap board on top, it had hatch clearance issues. I machined some material off the attachment points for the SC mounting plate to lower it a tad & now the hatch just clears.

Nice job, keep going & git 'er done !

[properchopper]

Thanks, Tony. Im building this with a lot of help from you, whether you know it or not. Im always refering to your own build thread for reference. I appreciate your help and your build thread. The CF came out okay. It was my first time using it and it was a pain. Ive used it one more time after on a buddies build and it went in better. I ordered the boat layed up double thick all the way around, so I doubt the CF was needed, but I like the way it looks with the red.

Larry, I learned from hard experience that the more time you take building a bulletproof rig like you're doing, the less tools you need at the lake.

[LarrysDrifter]

I should have it tearing up the water this weekend. Not much more to go. Ill see if Eric will post the video as I dont know how to do it. Ill be running 6s2p with 7650mah and starting with an X447/3 to start. The big Neu should turn an X450/3 but only testing will tell.

[LarrysDrifter]

After months of not caring if this boat ever got done, it finally hit the water yesterday. The build isnt 100% done. I still havent made the battery hold down assembly yet as I wanted to run the boat 1st and see how it did with the batteries against the motor and further forward, so I layed down some velcro on the floor and let it eat.
Yesterdays 1st run was with an X450/3 cut down to 47mm dia. Second run was with an ABC H-7. The ABC "looked" to have more top end, but eyeballs cant measure speed. A highly inaccurate guess would be low 60's. The stinger was nuetral and the tabs down a bit. Boat ran wet and does a roll/bounce in the turns. I installed the XL turn fins and the problem was still there. This is the 1st generation of Jeffs 34" monos, so it has the long strakes, which MAY be the problem with the turns. Im going to do alot of tuning before I sand the strakes shorter.
Im new at data logging, so Im still learning with my Hydra Ice 240. The max amps it drew with the H-7 was 182.7 amps. Other than that, Im still learning what everything is.

[LarrysDrifter]

Heres a crappy cell phone video at near sundown from today. I raised the stinger and trim tabs a bit and put an ABC 1918-10-50 prop on and ran in a too small pond again. Data logger read 177 amp peak. Boat ran very loose when it got on plane and hooked up. Full throttle time is very limited at this location. This pond is only 5 minutes from the house, so its somewhat decent for a test run. This weekend, it will be run at a big lake with plenty of room. Hope to get a better video and better light. This video is mainly just to show how it runs when turning. I dont know how to post the video here, so its going to be a link.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MMoQq5xs51o

[rearwheelin]

I would be really curious to see how the boat handles with no gap on between the drive dog and strut, you will need thrust washers up for the job but the wierd flip flop rolls in the turns I have been reading on this hull could be linked to the position and angle of motor and thrust forces of cable.... If you could place thrusting point on strut would be interesting to see the difference in handling

[Rumdog]

I don't know why you keep pushing this idea. It isn't good advice... At all. Notice how everyone that knows what they're doing will run a gap. The cable needs room to compress, it's pretty simple

[rearwheelin]

I don't know why you keep pushing this idea. It isn't good advice... At all. Notice how everyone that knows what they're doing will run a gap. The cable needs room to compress, it's pretty simple

You are real work know it all and all I am trying to do is help him under stand as well as others a concept that you will never understand..... Your claim to know what's best for everyone shows in your posts and when you go ignored you act like a big baby..... I have seen several builds with odd handling problems and I know they could have been corrected with a tweak to the drive so go act like a decent person or something and not like your better than everyone....... I have never had a cable drive on any of my boats go backwards so obviously to me you have...... Something is not right with larrys boat and I find it hard to believe as bad as some of the patrons on here have commented on this boats bad manners in the turns the strakes are 100% at fault and only a simple suggestive test on cable gap could show a world of difference ... We are at odds on this forsure but do you need to be so bashing and rude ? You need to chile out and drink stronger beer or get more sleep or something and stop trying to be a laude mouth know more than you /to me...... Dude if you have problems with me as I see you do there is also prozack...... Sorry Larry