Larrys INSANE 34

[LarrysDrifter]

How much do they get shortened? Im going to run mine as-is, then make the mods as I see they need be done.

[LarrysDrifter]

Dont hold off, Tony. Im always listening. Put that zipper back where it goes.

[Greg Schweers]

In my opinion, if you want to race this boat you have to shorten the strakes. The outside of mine is 7" shorter, and the inside one is 2" shorter. But I've also cut on these 3 times already trying to find the sweet spot. I started out with a turnfin that was 3" long, to a turnfin that's only 1-5/8" below the bottom of the boat. Now this boat doesn't do anything stupid; it's rocksolid going down the straights and turns extremely good now. Are you going to have room for 4 trimtabs on the back of your boat? I can only put 2" wide trimtabs on my boat; but I also like a big turnfin bracket on mine. I like to mount the trimtabs 1/2" away from the stinger.

[LarrysDrifter]

I still have to mock everything up on the transom. Most likely, I wont have room for 4 tabs-if so, Ill use 2 and save or sell the others.

[properchopper]

I still have to mock everything up on the transom. Most likely, I wont have room for 4 tabs-if so, Ill use 2 and save or sell the others.

Larry,

To get the most clearance for the tabs, mount the rudder as high as possible (the rudder is very long, so no prob there, you'll probably want to trim it some anyway although mine is left rather long - maybe why my particular 34 doesn't seem to have the glitch in the turns). You'll want to make a reinforcing backing plate since when the rudder is mounted up high the top bolts miss the stock backing plate. (hard to see in the pix, but my CF backing plate is the thing that has the servo rod tube going through it)

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[ksm2001]

Beautiful boat Larry! I like what you did with adding the carbon/kevlar for both extra strength and looks. Your boat should rip with that setup. Those adjustable trim tabs are very nice. Looking forward to seeing it completed.

[LarrysDrifter]

Made a bit more progress last night on the Insane. The wife has always wanted me to name a boat after her, so I figured I'd finally ablige her! . I fitted the hardware on the transom and got the holes drilled. Everything turned out exactly as I wanted, except I cant fit my second pair of billet tabs, but, oh well. Next up is to rough in the motor location and bend the stuffing tube. Suckmywake is going to help me make the rails for it-hopefully this week sometime.

[properchopper]

Larry, lookin' really nice. Good luck with the rails-hope there's a belt sander in your house (mine's in my kitchen right next to the drill press) The offer for a rail template still stands. I'm just finishing off Stephens 34, check it out.

[LarrysDrifter]

Thanks, Tony. Might half to head to Harbor Freight and get a belt sander. Thank you for the offer, but I dont think Ill be needing the template. I'll definitely get ahold of you if I think I'll need it. On my way to snoop around Stephen Insane.

[properchopper]

Larry, after my fourth build with rails (without benefit of a right-angle dremel drill attachment), I've come up with a way to get everything lined up, especially the flex/collet and get the motor mount holes located & drilled "dead nuts" in the rails. If you want to know how it's done (hint: the red paint on the motor mount by the bolt holes) LMK; I'll share my technique

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[LarrysDrifter]

I got the motor/jacket/esc assembly together last night. The Castle esc has provisions for mechanically fastening it to a mount. I was able to use 2 of the holes as the esc plate is narrower at the opposite end. If this esc proves to be reliable, Ill inquire about having a new plate made that allows me to use all 4 mounting holes. For now, I used velcro in conjunction with the 2 bolts.
The 1st motor I'm going to run is the 1.5/D. I figure if this one is too fast for the boat, I'll use the 1/Y with a bigger prop and put the 1.5/D in my PT Sport 40 hull. Note in the pics the esc is raised on the opposite end of the mounting hulls. I realize this is because there are no bolts on the other end of the esc.

[LarrysDrifter]

I have some 4mm bolts that I cut down to length for the motor mounting. I believe this is the newer style Neu with the different end bell. The 2 I have have 4 mounting holes in 3mm and 4mm sizes. Seems handy to me. I used the 4mm for more strength. I still have to grind a flat on the motor shaft for the collet and cut the motor wires on the esc shorter. It looks pretty sweet with the esc on top of the motor. This is the 1st time Ive had this type of mount, so Im kind of proud of it. Pete does great work and his help will always be appreciated. BTW, this newer 1527 cooling cans have clockable water nipples. These are an extremely welcome feature with cooling cans. It makes it much easier to tidy up the cooling lines and give the interior a much cleaner look.

[ksm2001]

That looks Great Larry, Yes Peter has some cool ideas in building mounts, makes it look very clean and simple to install or remove as a unit.

[LarrysDrifter]

Thanks. I hope my SS45 turns out as nice as yours too. I read your build thread. You have done a great job on that hull.

[ksm2001]

Thanks for the kind words Larry.

That’s one of the nice things about OSE, guys are willing to help other and we get ideas from others and add to it if we want to our builds. I used some ideas from reading other SS45 builds when building mine, if you have any questions when you start to build yours please don’t hesitate to ask.