traxxas villan build

[j.m.]

That small size probably won't do anything on this heavy hull, but that idea has been used before:


Personally, i filled this seam in on my blast...

Jon

[BRIAN]

Is there some kind of scientific measurement on where the stuffing tube or driveshaft will come out and at what angle i am really interested in doing this to mine

[20psinow]

the stuffing tube will come out flat with the bottom of the hull well thats the plan! and speaking of the stuffing tube and shaft and cuppler and rudder, it came in the mail to day and going to be putting in the order for the motor mount and a fue props (glass or carbon) 35mm to 38mm


and the 4mm shaft is 13.5" long might have to cut it down but dont know were the motor will sit right this min, also settin up the paypal account and going to order that motor and esc so i have money left for other (dont need parts)

[20psinow]

I wouldn't trust those batteries to more than 20 amps constant.

Which ain't gonna happen on your hull.

Even if you did have a reasonable setup, 2000Mah would last about 2 minutes.

That hull is shiny!! Your definitely going to have one of the cleanest Villains out there.

Jon

well can you through up a link to some lipos and a charger (still cheap but not light my house on fire cheap) thinking if i can get away with 1 3 or 4 cell pack and buy 2 of them id be able to have more fun in a day, but i can also make a jumper to run 2 at a time...

[j.m.]

I have this charger:

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=7028&Product_Name=Turnigy_Accucel-6_50W_5A_Balancer/Charger_w/_accessories

It just can't be beat for the price. It's friggin awesome. You'll need a 12VDC power supply, but I already had one so that wasn't a problem. Most nice chargers run off of DC current anyways. My power supply is a converted PC power supply, you can find them really cheap at a pc repair shop used, you don't need anything fancy.

This looks to be a decent battery with adequate specs and an awesome price...

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9179&Product_Name=Turnigy_5000mAh_4S_25C_Lipo_Pack

The zippy flightmax series are aldo good cells, I have a few:

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8584&Product_Name=ZIPPY_Flightmax_5000mAh_4S1P_25C_

Higher discharge rates will give you more punch, cooler temps, and more room to prop up:

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8588&Product_Name=ZIPPY_Flightmax_5000mAh_4S1P_30C_

But your best bet would be to run two packs in the boat at once in parallel. 4s2p with a 9xl and an appropriate prop should give you runtimes in the 6-7 minute range with upper 30s to low 40s in the speed dept. At least that's what FECalc says...

Jon

[Dragonturbo3]

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8578

Way cheap and should be good to 100 amps.

I use the same one but the 40c

I know a lot of people that are running these and the turnigy batteries with good results.

[20psinow]

haha ok well ill go and order the (2) Turnigy 5000mAh 4S 25C Lipo Pack

and the motor,esc,chager tonight and then next week the motor mount will have to hold off for now still have lots to do on the hull till i start installing everything...

[20psinow]

ok orderd the motor mount, 38mm glass prop, and bullet 5.5 (x10) going to have to order the motor and esc tonight and then im broke but the bat's and charger can hold off for now... and did you know OSE has some fast delivery!!

[j.m.]

If you order on the right day, yeah!

Two 2s packs would be an idea, lower weight...

But each 4s pack is probably lighter than a 6 cell pack. I know my hardcase 2s lipo pack is 1/3 the weight of my GP3300's. So the boat will be lighter anyways.

FECalc says you will go 38mph with that setup on a 438, with a runtime of 8.5 minutes which is LONG as far as FE is concerned. ~65 amps constant, it won't tax the esc of batteries. They'll see a little over 30 amps each, of about a third of what they are rated for. The ESC will be a little over half. I.E. a good, reliable sport setup.

The shaft should have a little bit of a downward angle, around 2 degrees. You can't bend the flex coupler THAT much.

The tube that supports the shaft would be best cut so that the shaft is supported right near the flex coupler, and where the shaft exits the hull.

Let me know if you need an extension for that rudder, I can probably fab something up real quick if you give me measurements. The shaft should go out behind the transom at least 2 inches, and the leading edge of the rudder needs to be even with the drivedog (yeah, we've gone over this before).

I can't WAIT to see this go. It will by far be the best villain out there.

Jon

[20psinow]

well thanks jon. i was thinking about how far the shaft will come out behind the transom and thinking 2 1/2" would be about right the rudder has a 1" extension but im going to need to measure that one, the rudder hits the bottom of the deck, the angle of about 2* should not be that hard to get... going to cut that stuffing tube in 2 and cut up some wood to match up on the bottom of the hull on the front of the drive and what not..

[j.m.]

You want the middle of the prop hub slightly above the bottom of the hull. So you can take your shaft with prop and everything, stick it through the hole you will drill in the transom, and measure how tall of a brace you will need at the coupler side of the motor. A ruler held flat along the center ridge on the bottom should line up with the bottom of the prop hub.

You don't want the prop center lined directly up with the bottom of the hub, because a mono won't ride only on this center ridge, it's going to be down just a little in the water. The water flowing past the transom will be even with the bottom though. This smooth surface of water is going to angle up just a little after the transom, and you want the prop half in this water, and half out.

Oh, and I almost forgot!! You need a thrust bearing!! Get the 5mm size.

Jon

[20psinow]

thrust bearing????? can i get that on OSE? whats the perpose of that i thought the shaft just rides on the stuffing tube?

[j.m.]

Yeah, you can. A thrust bearing goes over the motor shaft and sits between the motor case or motor mount and the coupler. This is to make sure that the thrust from the prop isn't trying to move the rotor inide the motor and possibly damage the rear motor bearing.

[20psinow]

well the 9xl motor and 120esc is on its way (hobbyking), the motor mount should be hear next week along with the prop and bullet's and ill have to make one more order form OSE but thats latter on need to save some money! and the glassing will have to be put off its to cold out and its the rain wont let up so when/if we ever get a nice day i will have to glass it then.. so now going to just work on prep for the paint and the out side of the tansom..

[j.m.]

Check and see what the lowest temperature is that your oven will go to. Not sure of the exact temp that abs melts at, but if your oven goes down to 130 or so your golden. That epoxy will dry in no time.