Blueprinting UL-1 Motor Wires
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Thanks guys. Yes, I machined it on the mill with a saw cutter. Took 3 stinkin hours! There is a separate thread on it... 'Endbell Heat Sink'. Didn't mean to hijack Tony's thread.....just wanted to mention other ways of addressing the wire insulation issue.Comment
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just wanted to bump this thread as I lost a UL-1 motor this past weekend during our finals .....
not sure if quality has dipped but the motor had 2 or 3 laps for testing a few weeks ago then Sat. it went up in smoke going into lap 3 during the first heat of the day....NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8sComment
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I'm starting to wonder the same thing. Maybe the 1800kv motor will work better, that's what I might try.Nortavlag Bulc
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just wanted to bump this thread as I lost a UL-1 motor this past weekend during our finals .....
not sure if quality has dipped but the motor had 2 or 3 laps for testing a few weeks ago then Sat. it went up in smoke going into lap 3 during the first heat of the day...MODEL BOAT RACER
IMPBA President
District 13 Director 2011- present
IMPBA National Records Director 2009-2019
IMPBA 19887L CD
NAMBA 1169Comment
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For me LSH, I have melted 3 motors in my PTSS and haven't finished a race in a while. Of course I could be guilty of too much prop and not enough setup/pond time. I'm sticking with a 42mm prop from now on.Nortavlag Bulc
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When are we going to admit that those motors suck. I have gone to a nue 1515/1y in all my spec setups. More reliable and better built.
My 20 SGX rigger clicked at 63mph on an H7 and 120 seaking. 85 degrees on the motor.
I think we made a big mistake picking cheap motors. I have burned up too many. We all would have saved money by buying better quality from the start.Comment
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AGREE! That would kinda make it P-sport hydro then sort of but, unless they are handing out spec props for LSH these motors are costing too much imo. A Castle 1515 1Y would be not too bad also. With spec props, all you have to tech is the diameter I mean, nothing over XXmm in diameter and the CD has a Template to check. You can work it any way you want and have any pitch you want just not over a specific diameter, just a thought.
When are we going to admit that those motors suck. I have gone to a nue 1515/1y in all my spec setups. More reliable and better built.
My 20 SGX rigger clicked at 63mph on an H7 and 120 seaking. 85 degrees on the motor.
I think we made a big mistake picking cheap motors. I have burned up too many. We all would have saved money by buying better quality from the start.Nortavlag Bulc
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Here we go.....Grand River Marine Modellers
https://www.facebook.com/search/top/...ne%20modellersComment
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I replaced a UL-1 motor I had in my LSH for the last 2 yrs with a new one at the beginning of summer. It only lasted 3 runs before frying on the same setup as the 2 yr old motor. I put the 2 yr old UL-1 motor back in and haven't had a problem since doing that.Comment
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That sucks. Hope that isn't the new norm.MODEL BOAT RACER
IMPBA President
District 13 Director 2011- present
IMPBA National Records Director 2009-2019
IMPBA 19887L CD
NAMBA 1169Comment
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While I really want to cautiously avoid "stirring the pot" on this topic, I'm sitting on a mountain of shared experience in the P-Ltd realm in which the AQ2030 motor is the bread-and-butter powerplant and there seems that some "discussion" may be warranted regarding the durability of later-model versions of this motor.2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
'11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /MonoComment
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