ML Boatworks RSX310 , My 1st Outrigger design ever! 31", P/ P-ltd FE Rigger!

[cybercrxt]

I first slide my inside edge plate up through the floor pan slots. Be careful, the slots are tight, and thin. If you break one of the floor pan extentions free, dont panic, it is easy to reglue, and later epoxy solid. Just take your time!

I started with frame CR and CL to square up things:



Now you can see all the frames are installed, and everything is CA'ed in to place. I again, used my angle aluminum along the inside edge to keep the ply square to the floor pan surface..very easy!



Another angle:

[cybercrxt]

I then dry fitted my sponson framework. Woke up early this morning and actually put them on my granite, and glued them up square. I did this even with the Zippkits Long 5/16" rod supports installed by just laying the sponson frames on one corner of the granite, allowing the tube supports to overhand the edges..it worked great!

Here are some dirty pics of the sponsons...more very very soon!









In typical ML Boatworks fashion, the inside sponson top will stick up higher than the finished sponson top deck sheeting. Should help keep airflow on the sponson in the turns, and look really cool while doing it!

[cybercrxt]

I found a Tyndall 1/8th scale fin in the garage this morning..this may just work well.

[Darin Jordan]

I found a Tyndall 1/8th scale fin in the garage this morning..this may just work well.

I'm thinking you may want to make provisions to mount it back further... I would suspect it'll need to be mounted a bit behind the ride-pads... Back more towards the rear boom.

Looking GREAT, Mike!

[T.S.Davis]

That fin is pretty thick for light rigger. I texted Kevin with a note to give you a ring.

Mike, can you give us a close up of how you did the boom tube in the sponson. I've done receivers with brass tube. I've not done anything I liked though. It's sort of a "that should work I guess" kind of thing for me.

[cybercrxt]

I talked to Don about turn fin location, he said leading edge of the fin needs to be at the sponson heal. I will make it all adjustable tho. Its all up in the air right now until I get it running, haha. Also, the sponsons will not be mounted wide like a JAE, more like a crapshooter style width. I think that wide stance is why the JAE fin is so far back, and so big. Yes, this fit is kind huge for this boat. I need something smaller I suspect. Just nothing in hand yet. Here are the boom tube supports I used for the sponsons:

http://zippkits.com/~zippkits/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=561

You have to install the front one before glueing on the outside sponson shear tho, as there is not enough room to slide it in once that shear is installed! That is where a brass open ended tube would be easier, BUT these aluminum tubes are closed ended, so no water can get inside the sponson..AND the boom tube length, and squareness to the tub will never be questioned, as it has a dead end stopping point!

[cybercrxt]

Also, I used these boom tubes from Zippkits:

http://zippkits.com/~zippkits/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=304

And you can get the collars for the tube side from either zippkits, or mcmaster carr...

http://zippkits.com/~zippkits/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=469

and from Mcmaster carr:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#6157K32

Part number:
6157K32

[cybercrxt]

OSE Order so far:

ros-spdr-005	Speedmaster Mini Rudder Assembly
Rudder Style:	- Hydro Rudder 1.5" Setback
ros-spds-005	Speedmaster Sport 20 Strut
Strut Style:	- Round Bottom-spds-005-R-Hydro			-
ose-187L	OSE .187 cable system for 3/16" props
aero-sts-187	STS 187 (Shaft Tube Seals)
dh-ks-brass-tb	K & S Brass Tubing
tubing size:	- pn#8132 : 9/32" Diameter

And 1/4" brass tube for the stuffing tube itself. The 9/32" tube above is for a doubler near the motor to add the shaft tube seal from Aeromarine, STS 187

[cybercrxt]

Now, I need motor suggestions. I am going to run my trusting water cooled converted Castle Ice 200a controller, 4s Hyperion 5400mah pack...Just need a motor????

[Darin Jordan]

Now, I need motor suggestions. I am going to run my trusting water cooled converted Castle Ice 200a controller, 4s Hyperion 5400mah pack...Just need a motor????

Are you thinking P-Hydro??

TP 4050-5D (2310KV) Would be a SOLID choice. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...p?prod=tp-4050
TP 4050-3Y (2100KV) IF a little lower KV is your thing.

LEOPARD 4082-1.5Y (2200KV) http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...?prod=leo-4082

It's also hard to be a typical Castle/Neu 1415 1Y.

[cybercrxt]

Yeah, I like something in the 2200-2700 kv range actually. I love the Castle/Neu 1512, 2650kv. I saw that TP4050-5D 2310kv...Do you think more than a 74mm can is needed tho???

[Darin Jordan]

I saw that TP4050-5D 2310kv...Do you think more than a 74mm can is needed tho???

"Needed"? Perhaps not...

DESIRED, Hell Yes!

For reference, the Castle 1415 1Y is 82mm...

I don't think the extra torque will hurt you, and your ESC shouldn't have any issues with it.

[cybercrxt]

Just ordered the rest of what I needed from OSE!

tp-4050TP Power Brushless 4050 Motor
winds/rpm: - 2310Kv 5D- -FREE Water Jacket! Pick Size?: - ham-TP4050 Jacket(40mmX60mm long)

ose-82000Carbon, Heavy duty water cooled mount for Leopard 40mm Motors
color of metal parts: - Silver color mount and motor ring- -

ose-tubing-1/4-clearOSE Large 1/4" Silicone Tubing
length: - 6 foot piece

aero-2011Aluminum Large Water Outlet x2

aero-2014Aluminum Bulkhead Fitting

[macomb]

Mike if you would like a Turn Fin for this hull let me know.
You could give me a shape and I can make it for you if you would like.
Very easy for me to make adjustments as I laser cut them and use a CNC Roll Machine for the Hook.
I make the fins out of 304-2B Stainless, Thicker on top for the strength and thinner for the part of the blade that is in the water.
A few pics of the Fins I make for the P-Sport Hydro.
PM me if your interested..Kevin

[cybercrxt]

Kevin, I will send you a PM. I really like the look of that P-sport hydro fin. I may want to try and include a nice fin with the kits...we should talk for sure!