20161107_201733.jpg That is a 12 inch ruler I am using .157 or 3.99 mm thick.
The Voracity tuning thread
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It's never too late.Proboat Voracity-E 36" , Proboat Zelos 36 Twin , Proboat Miss Geico 29" , Traxxas Spartan, Fightercat Daytona, ZondaComment
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I got a x450/3 I just got from him too.Proboat Voracity-E 36" , Proboat Zelos 36 Twin , Proboat Miss Geico 29" , Traxxas Spartan, Fightercat Daytona, ZondaComment
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Picked up a set of Boca 5x16x5 ceramic bearings. My motor has been dunked one too many times. A cooling hose came loose last weekend and flooded the boat, which was the last straw. How the heck do I remove the old bearings? After a quick look, there doesn't seem to be any lip to press the front bearing out, and the rear is pressed into a cap with no center access hole at all. I suppose they could be pried out.
2017-06-09 17.08.34.jpgVac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)Comment
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Mine was pried out bud. Stuck something in the holes at the top and off it came.Proboat Voracity-E 36" , Proboat Zelos 36 Twin , Proboat Miss Geico 29" , Traxxas Spartan, Fightercat Daytona, ZondaComment
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You can take the end with no holes, set it on a socket or something bigger then the bearing, put it in the oven at 250 degrees, you don't have to let it get quite that hot and then use a cooking glove to pick it up and slap it down on a hard surface like a board or something with the socket and all. It will fall right out. No damage done, let cool off and press in new bearing.Comment
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I had considered heat, but ultimately, the lack of access to the rear bearing for lubrication lead me to just drill out the rear cap. I used a 3/16" bit to drill the cap and was able to tap out the bearing with an appropriately sized punch and jewelers hammer. Popped the Bocas in with an 11mm socket, screwed everything back together, and had the boat back in the water today.You can take the end with no holes, set it on a socket or something bigger then the bearing, put it in the oven at 250 degrees, you don't have to let it get quite that hot and then use a cooking glove to pick it up and slap it down on a hard surface like a board or something with the socket and all. It will fall right out. No damage done, let cool off and press in new bearing.
2017-06-09 21.53.37.jpg2017-06-09 21.53.49.jpg2017-06-09 21.54.10.jpg2017-06-09 22.00.15.jpgVac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)Comment
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So it sounds like the ABC 1914 is a good sport running prop for the boat with all stock electronics?
I'll be upgrading the trim tabs and maybe getting a dual pickup rudder as well, just having trouble getting the boat up on plane. From a stop I can give it full throttle and it'll take 2-3 seconds to get up on plane.Comment
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I would say it's a pretty good start. I ran a 1914 on stock electronics last summer and I think it ran 55-56mph when the hull was really aired out with only just the last bit of hull in the water. The temps were all in check. I've been running a 1915 recently and while faster (62.2mph), it's putting a considerable amount more load on the electronics and my run times are only about 3.5 minutes if I want to keep the batteries above 3.8V. Today the ESC was about 150*, motor was 134*, batteries were 120* and the motor wire connectors were 220*. I then switched to a 450/3 prop that's cut down to 47mm and ran 57mph with cooler temps.So it sounds like the ABC 1914 is a good sport running prop for the boat with all stock electronics?
I'll be upgrading the trim tabs and maybe getting a dual pickup rudder as well, just having trouble getting the boat up on plane. From a stop I can give it full throttle and it'll take 2-3 seconds to get up on plane.
2017-06-04 22.16.53.jpg2017-06-10 11.34.39.jpgVac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)Comment
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How was the handling with the 3blade?.NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s
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