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Thanks Derric: smile:
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Got mine to run a bit better with a few more adjustments...........still porpoises a bit though......just not as bad.
One thing i have noticed is the use of some pretty cheap "wood" in the boat............or epoxy...................i have managed to rip both of the battery trays out by trying to remove my batteries..........why use such cheap stuff in an otherwise quality boat?NEED PARALLEL CONNECTORS?? QUALITY 5.5MM, 8MM, 8 AND 10 AWG, GET THEM HERE:
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...est!&highlight=Comment
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Battry tray coming out
If you are talking about the MG29 mine seems solid but I do know from the past with other boats that some are better epoxied than others of the same model. In the case of my Miss Geico I decided to order an extra hull just in case and this hull has more epoxy than my rtr. boat came with but so far it's still holding up. You only need to fiberglass it in or at least epoxy it and it should not give you any more trouble. By the way, what kind of adjustments did you make for the porpoising issue? My home made offset rudder bracket took care of it for me.
Good luck,
EricLast edited by ecoovert; 10-19-2011, 10:29 AM.Comment
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IMAG0667.jpgIMAG0671.jpgIMAG0670.jpgIMAG0668.jpgSpent whole morning on the boat:
Sanded and blue printed hull
Replaced all connectors to gold 5.5mm (motor and esc)
Replaced zip tie on esc with velcro strap
Zip tied all water cooling lines at fittings
Stuffed two 12" foam noodle pieces up the forward sponsons
Slightly shortened water lines to motor to keep from pushing against the lid
Shaped, balanced and balanced new X642 prop
Added small racing decals (still have alittle graphic work to do)
Figured CG and added velcro to flimsy battery trays (I want to stiffen these up in the future)
I can't believe I have had the boat this long nd haven't got it out on the water yet. Think it all started with the painting. All well, I do that with most of my models.Comment
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You did a nice job. Can't wait to see it on the water.Comment
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Me too!!! Probaly will take her out tomorrow. I did configure the jumper with 5.5mm connectors but might not need it ....will just hook batteries together without it.Comment
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I know how you feel. My boat has been ready with it's new 4082 motor for weeks but I havn't been able to get to the lake and may not be able to for quite some time. I went from the stock motor to a 4074 motor with 180 amp seaking esc.... I have ran it with the 4074 setup several times and wow! That thing is fast and stable with the offset rudder. Now I have even more of a beast of a motor, several sharpened and ballanced props up to an x645, Everything ready to run 2200kv. on 6s along with an offset rudder setup I made myself. I am just akin to get this beast on the water.Last edited by ecoovert; 10-20-2011, 09:30 PM.Comment
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Eco, I would highly recommend not running a 2200kv motor on 6s. And if you decide you have to, small prop for one short pass. That's over 48000 rpmComment
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Awsome paint job! I have done some nice paint jobs on rc trucks but working with a simple can of spray paint on a $40 clear body is easy next to having to sand the hull and gel coat everything once you are done on a $195 hull. Do you ever do this for others?Comment
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+1!
Please refer to this thread on the subject: http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ession-with-6sLast edited by Diesel6401; 10-21-2011, 04:02 PM.Comment
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Maiden was great on stock prop. I love this boat. I flipped her once and the flimsy battery tray pulled out on the left side. Didn't have the hatch taped and everything inside was bone dry after fishing it out.
The trays in this boat are disappointing. I went ahead and removed the right tray with very little effort. I read somewhere that someone had this problem too.... but stated his had just a few drops of epoxy here and there down the length of the tray. Mine was glued on both sides down the whole length. The trays are to thin as you can here then crack and flex when you mount the lipos. My other issue is that, IMO...the trays need to extend to the very back (second step). To get the CG at at stock location (7 inches from 3rd step, or 9 inches from second step) the lipos sit half way off the rear of the trays and are bout an inch or two from the transom. I have added some foam up front but in any case I rather not have any amount of the lipo pack not being supported.
I'm thinking about fabbing new trays from little thicker ply and running a block of foam down its backbone under the tray. Maybe adding alittle epoxy between foam and bottom of boat. Before I glue them in I'll tke the oppertunity to add veclo straps. There is enough room to go radical and put them in in their sides. This would make it easier to load and unload. Might have to think that through.
The small piece of wood the retaines the servo with two screws was cupping pretty bad so I will be doing something different there too.
I hope to do this without adding any more weight.
IMAG0672.jpgIMAG0673.jpgComment
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Also noticed sunlight shining through the fiberglss resin on the inside edge of the left sponson. I sanded the sponsons and it got alittle thin here for my liking. I layered 5 minute epoxy in these edges on both sides while the trays were out.Comment
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Looks nice........................what is the "jumper" for? You just connect one pos. lead from a batt to the neg lead of the other batt for series.NEED PARALLEL CONNECTORS?? QUALITY 5.5MM, 8MM, 8 AND 10 AWG, GET THEM HERE: http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...est!&highlight=Comment
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Yeah..no jumper needed...just went wild when soldering. The lipo leads are long enough to connect.Comment
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Well... I've went back to touch up the sponson edges and painted them a bright orange. Might be a good color if I'm laying dead in the water during the race. HIGH VISABILITY!!!
I ended up cracking the tip off one side of my X642 prop as I ws pitching it ever so slightly.
DANG IT! Anyway...I have since rounded the tips and pitched into the rounds. Maybe this will work out still. Probably will still re-order another one.
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