ProBoat's new 29" Mystic Brushless catamaran

[martin]

Ive always found a loose liner always works it way up towards the coupling,Also re the spiral direction of the flex it should auger water away from going up the tube into the boat. But as we all know the opposite is the case & water goes up the tube into the boat. Martin.

[7500RPM]

You will find if you use Octura cable and stub shaft, it rides just shy of the stock front bearing, what I did is remove the stock bushings and ran a drill bit in a drill press into the strut and removed the inner stop for the bushings, then the strut will take 3 Octura Lead Teflon Bushings in the strut, this works much better and it supports the stub staft better! remember to spread the Octura bushing a little for a snug fit!

[ecoovert]

Just arrived at our new home in Lenoir, NC. 5 days ago. We are still getting things unpacked and set up. Still havn't found my laptop so I'm using my work computer to post replyes for now. I did have the chance to install my 4082 Nemesis Gold 2200kv motor in my Miss Geico but as I havn't replaced the car I sold in Bellingham, WA I am unable to get to a lake to try it out I went with 6.5mm. plugs for mine but the 5.5mm. should be plenty for your boat unless you plan on installing a beast of a motor like what I did. When you plan on upgrading I would add support to the back of the motor as the XL motors put a lot of stress on the hull. I just picked up a water cooled motor mount which provides front and back support, cut the front part off and am using the back section to add support to the rear of the motor. The reason I cut the front of the mount off is because I'm using the existing stock mount to hold the front of the motor. Trust me, that's a very simple to enable your hull to handle the massive torque the motors produce as well as when the boat hits the waves at over 70mph.

Hope this helps.

P.S. Chris at finedesignrc.com has a few of the same motor I got in stock. He sells them with the Leopard water jacket for $119.95. The motor is so big I can't use the sub hatch so I will have to use tape which I was doing anyway. You can also find Tacon 4074 motors online for under $50.00 and pick up a water jacket for about $16.00 which will give you 3.46 horse power. Not a bad upgrade for $66.00

[Make-a-Wake]

Well.............i'm about to start leaving the Mystic at home. Third time out, 6 sets of batts, multiple batt positions, several strut adjustments, and................WAH WAH WAH.................does this boat ride smoothly ever................been on ripples and glass....................hmmmm?

Any suggestions?

[tiqueman]

I think weve all been there w/ this hull. Maybe now all the "offset fixes it" guys will realize it was other changes that did it. I have a very minimal bounce in mine. However, once the water drops another 10 degrees or so, Ill go back to an M445 and the bounce is completely gone. This is w/ the 1500 motor, not the 18. I ran the 1800 for a bit and ran a 642. The boat was all over the place and I could not get the bounce out. I currently run a 43.6mm and its very slight. I havent adjusted the strut at all since the dialing of the M445, perhaps I could get it out, but I havent tried. All I can tell you is only adjust one thing at a time. I have seen 42mm props and such run with little to no bounce. One thing at a time, if it helps, try more, if it doesnt, adjust something else. It takes quite a while to dial one of these. I ran for a good couple months before I got mine to settle. At least a dozen sets of packs.. at least. Stick with it, once you get it, its a beast of a boat.

[desmobob]

I've had good luck with the strut 1/16" below the bottom of the boat, dead flat, and the batteries even with the front of the motor. I get just a hint of porpoising only at full throttle. When I ran the strut even with the bottom of the boat, it was fast and light... a little too light; it would easily flip when I put on a prepped x640. I also tried the strut even with the bottom, but angled down a degree or two (with the stock prop). The boat ran flat and slow; too wet I guess.

I'm new to all this and have found it hard to spend an outing doing nothing but changing my set-up. I'm too busy having fun! And it seems like the few times I HAVE gone to the lake with the purpose of tuning the set-up, the water conditions are so rough it's impossible. Maybe this weekend....

Take it easy,
desmobob

[ecoovert]

I knew it would be in stock as soon as I had no funds! Argh! haha.

Oh well. I've got a sprintcat to build for now to tide me over I guess.
We'll see if there's a Mystic in my future sometime when money is available. Hope so!

Don't worry. I think this one will remain in stock long enough for you come up with the funds to get one. They won't be getting rid of this one any time soon.

[ecoovert]

My problem is I have is having ordered 3 new teflon tubes from Horizon Hobby made for this boat I can't get any of them to slide completely into the stuffing tube. They reach a point where they bend while I try to push them in. The one that came with the boat slides in just fine but it's a little on the short side and needs to be replaced. What I ended up doing is cutting the end of the old one to make it a clean cut and adding a short portion of a new one at the end to complete the length. If I keep doing this I will end up with 6 to 8 1" to 1 1/2" sections of teflon tubing in my stuffing tube. How do you get these teflon tubes to slide into the stuffing tube without bending?

[tiqueman]

Stretch them firs. I usually pull them thru my hands as tight as I can for 2 or three minutes. They will slide right in

[ecoovert]

Stretch them firs. I usually pull them thru my hands as tight as I can for 2 or three minutes. They will slide right in

Thanks, I'll give it a try.

Say, while I have you here I have just installed a Leopard 4082 2200kv motor in my Miss Geico. In the proccess of making everything fit and removing the motor mount several times I seem to have stripped one of the metal sleeves the screw goes into the wooden portion of the hull. The screw is fine but the metal sleeve it screws into is stripped. Is there any way to pull that out and replace it on this boat? I looked all around the wood plate they are fitted into and can't find a way to pull them out from the bottom side. Of course there is no way to pull them out from the top as this would make them come out under stress while running the boat. Is there something I can pore into the sleeve to re thread it? Any ideas would be of great help.

[ecoovert]

I could be wrong but it seems that when I aproach 60mph mine starts to porpoise less. I did however make my own offset rudder bracket which solved the problem all together. Maybe the larger prop simply allows you to reach a more stable speed.

[tiqueman]

There's. Stuff called form a thread. You can get it at the auto parts store. I've never used it in hobby applications but it could work. You could also try some thread locjust snug it as much as possible, wait a few hours and try tightening it. Or do as I did and rip all that wood crap out and put in a real mount etc, more room to work, easier to get batteries in and out and looks better.

[srislash]

I would maybe cut an access hole in the bulkhead under the motor to get to the blind nuts.BE very careful with that dremel though.One of mine stripped on my strut as well.

[desmobob]

Is there any way to pull that out and replace it on this boat? I looked all around the wood plate they are fitted into and can't find a way to pull them out from the bottom side. Of course there is no way to pull them out from the top as this would make them come out under stress while running the boat. Is there something I can pore into the sleeve to re thread it? Any ideas would be of great help.

Those blind nuts seem to be made of some pretty mild steel and they strip easily. I've had that problem in the firewalls of some RC airplanes.

If it was my boat, I think I'd try to make a small hole in the bulkhead under the motor just big enough so I could reach in with a pair of tweezers and hold a conventional nut in place below the stripped blind nut while I threaded a longer screw in from the top through the motor mount. Then you could use a small ignition wrench to hold the nut while you tightened the motor mount screw. (I just bought a set of tiny metric ignition wrenches -- they're handy for hobby use.) If you were worried about compromising the strength of the bulkhead by making the hole, you could always epoxy a plywood patch over it when you were finished. That would make it even more fun to remove the mount the next time...

Good luck with it,
desmobob

[ecoovert]

There's. Stuff called form a thread. You can get it at the auto parts store. I've never used it in hobby applications but it could work. You could also try some thread locjust snug it as much as possible, wait a few hours and try tightening it. Or do as I did and rip all that wood crap out and put in a real mount etc, more room to work, easier to get batteries in and out and looks better.

Thanks for the idea tiqueman. I thought something like that existed but just didn't know what it was called.