proboat electronics worhtless??

[Diesel6401]

I just dropped the idea, if you are looking for pb electronics there are some good deals out there, if you are looking sell, you might as well keep it. I sold a nip speedcontrol for $40 shipped and that was posint for a while, I've seen a combo that a guy has on ebay for a few weeks and a $100 is not taking it home.

The market is simply over saturated, just like with the SV's. For a long time at any given day their was like 4 or 5 sv's for sale just here on OSE, people couldn't give them away does that mean the SV is junk? Your OP is bashing PB electrics, when it's not the fault of PB. They made a great product a lot of people on here of had them and used them and know what they can do so we move on to the next and sell. I just sold a motor last month for around $35 because that's what is was worth because of the market no fault of PB just a lot of people trying to sell at the same time.

[Darin Jordan]

I have been told to put 5mm connectors on the motor leads but all that will do is create a hot spot as energy can not flow past those connectors any faster than a 3mm bullet set due to wire gauge resistance. Asides from that, the amount of solder needed to attach a 5mm bullet to an 18 huge wire will create even more resistance than necessary.

I'm going to just politely disagree with this premise... The bottom line, from many years of experience with these exact systems, is that adding larger connectors to any of these RTR systems keeps them from melting off the small contacts. It provides more heat-sink area and dissipates the heat much better. Plain and simple... IT WORKS!

As for the wire gauge and contact sizes... I can only say this... there is a pure racer and engineer involved with ProBoat bits and pieces now... it's not something that has gone unnoticed...

[Diesel6401]

Befu, that was very well explained. I have been an electrician for 15
years and could not of explained it any better.

My main concern with the PB electronics is the usage of small calliber wires. The MG motor uses 18 gauge wire and the ESC wires are no bigger. I have been told to put 5mm connectors on the motor leads but all that will do is creat a hot spot as energy can not flow past those connectors any faster than a 3mm bullet set due to wire gauge resistance. Asides from that, the amount of solder needed to attach a 5mm bullet to an 18 huge wire will create even more resistance than necessary.

But I will add the caps to the power wires and the resister to the positive leas onjelp the flow of initial energy to the stock caps slow down, hopefully helping the ESC last longer.

Problem with the 3mm was they were de-soldering real easy and causing failures, change them out problem fixed, now that's not a technical answer even though I do have a electrical background, but it works. K.I.S.S ( Keep It Simple Stupid), we can over think the situation or do what works. I have been bashing my 45 amp esc for the last few months with a motor that can pull more constant than what the esc is rated for, still works still runs cool and im waiting to see how far I can push until she lets go. All I did was change all the connectors and dis-able the bec.

[Boomer]

Where are you fellows getting the "caps" you are chatting about, and how to do you select the correct "caps" for a given ESC?? If one of you gents could post a few pictures of this procedure, I for one would appreciate it!
Thank you
Boomer

[GP73]

I buy mine at a local electronics store, 35V 220uF or more and I solder them in series. You can also get 63V caps if you are running HV setups.

The idea is to have at least double the voltage that goes in and as much capacitance as you can fit in the space. Other people prefer fewer larger capacitors (1 or 2 1000uF) instead of smaller ones in greater number (4 to 8 220uF or 470uF).

I'll leave the quality and type of capacitors discussions to experts, but you can buy this stuff in pretty much any electronics store or online (mouser.com)

Where are you fellows getting the "caps" you are chatting about, and how to do you select the correct "caps" for a given ESC?? If one of you gents could post a few pictures of this procedure, I for one would appreciate it!
Thank you
Boomer

[JackBlack26]

I'm going to just politely disagree with this premise... The bottom line, from many years of experience with these exact systems, is that adding larger connectors to any of these RTR systems keeps them from melting off the small contacts. It provides more heat-sink area and dissipates the heat much better. Plain and simple... IT WORKS!

As for the wire gauge and contact sizes... I can only say this... there is a pure racer and engineer involved with ProBoat bits and pieces now... it's not something that has gone unnoticed...

I agree that changing to bigger contacts will keep them from melting off, but most times when they melt off it's from bad solder jobs like with what used to be found in the tabs of mass produced Zippy LiPos. Simply taking the time to unsolder them and make sure that they have made good contact and aren't "cold soldered" is more than enough to prevent any issues. We have to remember that in mass produced electronics it's quantity that maters not quality so bad solder jobs definitely make it through and IMO causing the failures we see most of.

You may see the larger connector as a "heat sink" but I see it as a hot spot, as will an infrared camera, specially when covered in heat shrink. It may work for many racers who only run for short bursts, or less time than the "average" RTR customer would; and I will not argue that because I do not have that kind of experience. I would however like to be able to run 4-5 packs through my boat on the same outing if possible, not just a few laps around some buoy.

It's great to hear that they are looking in to the small size wire leads in these systems. If I could do it without voiding my warranty I would upgrade them to larger wires from the origin.

Please don't take any of what I have said as an argument. I don't want to start any trouble and respect your views. It's simply my point of view from experience with working on electrical systems. It's how I was trained to think when it comes to power delivery. Bigger and less resistance is only better when the whole power delivery system is of the same, adequate size from start to finish.

[JackBlack26]

I buy mine at a local electronics store, 35V 220uF or more and I solder them in series. You can also get 63V caps if you are running HV setups.

The idea is to have at least double the voltage that goes in and as much capacitance as you can fit in the space. Other people prefer fewer larger capacitors (1 or 2 1000uF) instead of smaller ones in greater number (4 to 8 220uF or 470uF).

I'll leave the quality and type of capacitors discussions to experts, but you can buy this stuff in pretty much any electronics store or online (mouser.com)

Awesome info! Thanks

[LiPo Power]

Right on!!!!
So soon enough will see RTR components with better connectors and wires...

I'm going to just politely disagree with this premise... The bottom line, from many years of experience with these exact systems, is that adding larger connectors to any of these RTR systems keeps them from melting off the small contacts. It provides more heat-sink area and dissipates the heat much better. Plain and simple... IT WORKS!

As for the wire gauge and contact sizes... I can only say this... there is a pure racer and engineer involved with ProBoat bits and pieces now... it's not something that has gone unnoticed...

[befu]

Bahh....Mechanical Engineer trying to teach us about electronics.....go design a bridge

Double "Bah" back at you! Someone else trying to tell a mechanical Engineer to go design a bridge.... That is a civil engineer's job!

Mechanical engineers would be better suited to build a boat.... Um, bad example. Never mind.

Brian

[LiPo Power]

Double "Bah" back at you! Someone else trying to tell a mechanical Engineer to go design a bridge.... That is a civil engineer's job!

Mechanical engineers would be better suited to build a boat.... Um, bad example. Never mind.

Brian

[Doby]

Double "Bah" back at you! Someone else trying to tell a mechanical Engineer to go design a bridge.... That is a civil engineer's job!

Mechanical engineers would be better suited to build a boat.... Um, bad example. Never mind.

Brian

OK,,,go design a toaster

[JackBlack26]

You guys crack me up

[LiPo Power]

Same here, LOL....

[befu]

OK,,,go design a toaster

OK, now that is funny! Actually, I started this when I was looking at making a 4' long vacuum forming machine.... Odd, ain't it!

Brian

[dano1]

I just orderd a octura x642 balanced. I seen diesel's posts on this combo and am running all stock m/g hardware with 8000 lipos, havent had any problems, this prop won't harm me........will it?? You guys are scaring me!!!!!!!!

Dano