proboat electronics worhtless??

[GP73]

HK, $50 plus shipping, just make sure you set a notification when they have it in stock.

Or in alternative you can buy the Swordfish 120A here on OSE, not as cheap but good enough.

tell me where i can get a seaking 120 for 55 bucks pls ...i need one lol

[Doby]

Looks like hobie and roadrash "have left the building"on this topic.....

[Doby]

GP,,,keep your Stilletto wet side down.

You don't need to replace the caps....leave them where they are and add new ones to the main power wires and you should be good to go!

Besides, didn't you just buy a new tunnel...now you have 2.

[GP73]

I knew this was coming...

Depends on how good you sealed it!

My sentiment is that they could shave at least $20+ bucks off the STLO ESC and still make money... I'm sure they will in few months anyway like they did for the BJ/MG ESC.

Then I'll buy one.

How many times can you "dunk" the Seaking???

[GP73]

I did replace caps, the ESC didn't start, I think I fried it good with that stupid Feigao.

(EDIT: I've fried another Suppo 70A with that motor before cluing in )

I should have read more about the motor before using it with the stock ESC, I totally deserved it.

As for keeping the wet side down... no problems, there is no wet side anymore, not until spring anyway...

Sigh.

GP,,,keep your Stilletto wet side down.

You don't need to replace the caps....leave them where they are and add new ones to the main power wires and you should be good to go!

Besides, didn't you just buy a new tunnel...now you have 2.

[befu]

If these components were all rated in the same unit of measurement, with mins and max listings, it would be much simpler to match them. Instead, we have to know a bunch of conversion formulas to insure a safe combination of batteries, ESC and motors and of course, we have to know that different sized props can change the amp draw.

Let's see batteries are rated with volts and mAh, number of cells, and another fun number the "C" factor or discharge rate. Motors are in KV, ESC are rated in AMPS running and burst, but the motor can draw only to power it thinks it needs for the power source for a given task, and it can kill itself or the ESC by demanding more power than it can take. So, I have to be smarter than the motor and ESC. That's a problem!
<... shortened quite a bit...>

Who the heck thought of this? Thank you
Boomer

Wow! Writing like that you could be an engineer!!!! Oh, and that is pretty much who came up with stuff like that. Engineers and scientist.

Ohm is a unit of resistance
Amps is a measurement of current, or coulombs per second, not power
volts is a measurement of electrical potential. One volt across one ohm of resistance will produce one amp!
None of these are energy or power, but are components of it.

energy is capable of doing work and electrical energy is measured in watt-hours or 3.6 Joules I believe.

Electrical power is one volt flowing at one amp is 1 watt of power. Since our ESC's simulate 3 phase power, on the motor side of the ESC you also get into effective power, but I do not want to make this complicated.
Basically, power is the rate at which energy is consumed or used.

OK, those are the basics and are basically laws, you can not change the units on them as they are all different items. It would be like calling a cow, bike and mountain the same thing to make it easier.

Now, the motors are different stuff. There are some tutorials on here that help to explain it much better than I could in a single post, plus I would probably make mistakes or have to go back and read it again or just plagarize, non of which is very good.

I agree, it is very confusing and it isn't done to try to get new people, but you are dealing with complicated design items that can not be simplified. I had a professor in college that said people typically over complicate things, or try to simplify them to the point that they are just wrong.

before you start modifying items, take some time and do some studying. It is not easy, but once you learn the knowledge, you will really enjoy the design portion of the hobby much more! It really is fun stuff.

Go ahead and spend the time reading, you will find out that you really are much smarter than an esc and motor!

And yes I am a mechanical engineer. Try living that life, it ain't easy being an engineer out in the social circles!

Brian

[Doby]

Bahh....Mechanical Engineer trying to teach us about electronics.....go design a bridge

[7500RPM]

Bahh....Mechanical Engineer trying to teach us about electronics.....go design a bridge

Google Calgary's Peace Bride what a joke!

[bwells]

That appears to be a very long span! I guess if you drive across it, you will hope the engineer knew his stuff.

[LiPo Power]

Me too


[QUOTE=GP73;260052]I knew this was coming...

[LiPo Power]

If I dunk my PB ESC and it wont work after that, will the warranty cover the repair?

How many times can you "dunk" the Seaking???

[Darin Jordan]

If I dunk my PB ESC and it wont work after that, will the warranty cover the repair?

Don't know... you'll have to call ProBoat....

[roadrashracing]

Looks like hobie and roadrash "have left the building"on this topic.....

I just dropped the idea, if you are looking for pb electronics there are some good deals out there, if you are looking sell, you might as well keep it. I sold a nip speedcontrol for $40 shipped and that was posint for a while, I've seen a combo that a guy has on ebay for a few weeks and a $100 is not taking it home.

[ron1950]

seems to be a market for the 60a esc but noone is selling that i can find.....

[JackBlack26]

Befu, that was very well explained. I have been an electrician for 15
years and could not of explained it any better.

My main concern with the PB electronics is the usage of small calliber wires. The MG motor uses 18 gauge wire and the ESC wires are no bigger. I have been told to put 5mm connectors on the motor leads but all that will do is creat a hot spot as energy can not flow past those connectors any faster than a 3mm bullet set due to the wire gauge resistance, of the small wire. Energy will basically "bunch up" at the connector creating a hot spot. We see this a lot in electrical panels, on breakers that ate bolted in place with screws that are too small or being over drawn.

Asides from that, the amount of solder needed to attach a 5mm bullet to an 18 gauge wire will create even more resistance than necessary, specifically if it has lead in it.

But I will add the caps to the power wires and the resister to the positive lead to ease the flow of initial energy to the stock caps, hopefully helping the ESC last longer.