Miss Geico Race Prep

[ron1950]

i am liking the ul1 in a geigo more all the time....just dont have 60 bucks to get one right now lol.....its my next project,,..question....will the ul1 burn up my 45a proboat esc or do i need to get the 60amper? the stiletto motor in it right now runs cool and all but not enough power....

[airman66285]

Ah........... On my last runs with the original Kintec bracket, most of the bounce was eliminated. It still has a little at the top end. I attribute that to it not having the power to carry the bow. If I put more power in there, I am pretty sure the boat will carrying the bow without any bounce.
Another option is a different prop that has more lift. If you watch videos of the real race boats, while they have all the power in the world, they bounce too. Some of that is due to the waves, but even on glass, their bows lift and fall. If you have ever seen really fast drag boats, you'd see that they take a "set" once on plane, and if it doesn't crash, will run throught the 1/4 mile almost fully out of the water. That is pure HP. I have been watching some of the videos of Miss G, and observe that the more powerful set ups run smoother than the ones closer to stock power. Thus my conclusion.

Hey, it's all fun! Cool boat.
Boomer









Thanks for the clarification.
Boomer

Boomer,

Before I added the modified Kintec bracket, I should have ran my MG with the new Leopard 2000kV motor and stock rudder set-up to establish a better baseline for the bouncing problem. Right out of the gate I ran the boat with the modified Kintec bracket and Leopard motor and there was absolutely no bounce - just a very fast cat! My lake is now ice so my fun is over until spring. It will be great if I can use the stock rudder with the Leopard 2000kV motor and not have any bounce because I think the offset rudder looks gay on a cat.

[Darin Jordan]

i am liking the ul1 in a geigo more all the time....just dont have 60 bucks to get one right now lol.....its my next project,,..question....will the ul1 burn up my 45a proboat esc or do i need to get the 60amper? the stiletto motor in it right now runs cool and all but not enough power....

I've tested the 2030 KV motor in the MG with an EagleTree, and using the stock Stiletto prop (Prather 215... same as the plastic MG prop, only stainless).... It's pulling well above 60A average, with regular trips above 90Amps... I'd ESC and prop accordingly...

I sure wish people would get out of the thinking that more KV means more power... that's simply not the case. All else being equal (can size, stator/rotor weight/size, etc.) the more KV you have, the less torque you have to work with. RPMs go up, prop size (pitch) has to go down. The net is that you end up with similar speeds.

Handling might be improved, or affected in some way, by the difference, due to prop sizes, etc., but, in general, these motors have a certain amount of power to give. Some give it through RPMs, others through torque. The prop choice is what determines the final speed.

The 1500KV motor at 14.8V might require a 2.7" pitch prop to achieve a speed of 45mph... the 2030 motor will only need a 1.97" pitch prop to do the same speed.

If the boat can handle the larger props, then the 1500KV motor, in theory, might get 50mph using a 2.97" pitch prop, etc...

Overall watts used, however, are likely going to be pretty similar, so it's a matter of matching the prop to the application, regardless of which motor you are choosing. I think people would really go a long ways to spend some time working and tinkering on their own props. You'd be shocked at how much more performance can be had by some simple tweaks to the prop... It is, after all, the gearing and "traction/grip" (tires) for your application.

[tiqueman]

Definitely a cool boat indeed. Ive got mine a littel better out on the next trial of tuning, but still not there. I took the bottom bolt out of the rudder and kicked it back a bit.. trying to get the lead edge perp to the water as the boat is on motion. Seemed to help a very small amount. Certainly at its best so far but still has quite a bounce. Ive seen some vids on here of it running a lot more tru. I checked the sponsons for hook. They are actually pretty good. Id say a 32nd or less hook, and about half that side to side. waiting for another set to peak out and Ill get her back out and continue.

Darin, as for you suggesstion on adding power. Usually Id go for that anyday of the week. But, I want to keep it elegible for Spec Offshore. Perhaps the 1800KV PB motor? Or the UL-1? would be a better choice. What are your and others thoughts?

[tiqueman]

Ha you posted as I was typing... good read there and makes sense. So to stay in its class I may be better off just keepin on the tweaking w/ what I have?

PS, prop I am trying to tune on is a 642, sharpened, balanced, detongued and very slightly cupped. I went to a sharpened and balanced only 442 on my last outing for the last pass to see if it settled it anymore and it did not.

[Darin Jordan]

Darin, as for you suggesstion on adding power. Usually Id go for that anyday of the week. But, I want to keep it elegible for Spec Offshore. Perhaps the 1800KV PB motor? Or the UL-1? would be a better choice. What are your and others thoughts?

Well... first off... moving the rudder FORWARD (bottom of rudder) will have the affect of lifting the bow in the turns. I've done this on mine and I believe it helps.

As for motors... For Offshore, It's my opinion that the UL1 motor will eat up too many mAh to make the 4-minutes distance... but I do know that there are guys running this setup and winning National level races with it.

I'd personally opt for the 1800KV motor. Good combo of torque and RPMs... But... testing has only begun. We'll have to see what people come up with.

[tiqueman]

I think the offset rudder looks gay on a cat.

That is great.. and so tru in my book. Unfortunatley/ fortunatley though, the offset for carrying speed thru a turn is worth it on this set up.

[tiqueman]

Well... first off... moving the rudder FORWARD (bottom of rudder) will have the affect of lifting the bow in the turns. I've done this on mine and I believe it helps.

As for motors... For Offshore, It's my opinion that the UL1 motor will eat up too many mAh to make the 4-minutes distance... but I do know that there are guys running this setup and winning National level races with it.

I'd personally opt for the 1800KV motor. Good combo of torque and RPMs... But... testing has only begun. We'll have to see what people come up with.

Yup I learned pulling the lead lower edge forward (or tucking it in as I refer to it) lifts the bow and helps plant the rear in corners on one of my big gas cats. It was recommended to me at the races this past weekend to move the lower edge back to try and help square it to the water while running in a straight line. The theory sounded right to me. Since I was dealing w/ a straight line issue and not cornering I figured what the heck

[Darin Jordan]

PS, prop I am trying to tune on is a 642, sharpened, balanced, detongued and very slightly cupped. I went to a sharpened and balanced only 442 on my last outing for the last pass to see if it settled it anymore and it did not.

I would work on an X642 to start with... it's 2.64" pitch... With the stock setup, that theoretically should be good for about 43mph, depending on how you calculate slip (I'm figuring around 20%) and how much Voltage your batteries have under load (I'm assuming about 15 Volts, so I'm being generous, or figuring early in the run)...

If you pitch that X642 up to give it 3" of pitch, it should give you around 47mph.

My guess is that the power system can handle MUCH more than that. My other guess is that I'm being too generous on the amount of "slip" in the average, unworked prop, so speeds are likely listed as a little high...

A Grim 42x55, pitched up to around 3.7" (Typical UL-1 powered P-OPC Tunnel prop), and using a 25% slip, pencils out to around 55mph... Right about what the said OPC is capable of under ideal conditions...

Of course... a higher KV motor wouldn't require some of the prop work, perhaps, and a standard 42x55 (2.17" pitch) at 26000 RPM (about what a loaded UL1 motor might provide) would be good for 40.2mph... Might be working harder (building more heat) to make that happen, however. Only testing would tell for sure.

[mike c]

Already dont like the widowmaker

hey guys its mike. just got my access so this is my first post. i just obtained a pb widowmaker, i have lots of experience with rc cars and am always trying to make them go too fast. i am ok with a perfect balance of handaling and speed but would like more speed than the widowmaker hull can take. i really like the miss geico brushless 29. my questions are: does this boat have alot of annoying probs like the widowmaker. and if so what do you run into that needs addressed. thanx

[LiPo Power]

Hi Darin
Could you please make a picture of your rudder mod from the top with measurements?
I was trying to find how fare back is your rudder vs. your prop.
Thanks
Robert

[Diesel6401]

hey guys its mike. just got my access so this is my first post. i just obtained a pb widowmaker, i have lots of experience with rc cars and am always trying to make them go too fast. i am ok with a perfect balance of handaling and speed but would like more speed than the widowmaker hull can take. i really like the miss geico brushless 29. my questions are: does this boat have alot of annoying probs like the widowmaker. and if so what do you run into that needs addressed. thanx

Widowmakers are nightmares. This boat is night and day compared to the WM. You will be 100% happy with a MG over a WM, not even a comparison! Your moving from a Chevy Aveo to a Cadilliac CTS V-series (no offense to those that drive aveo's )

[Darin Jordan]

Hi Darin
Could you please make a picture of your rudder mod from the top with measurements?
I was trying to find how fare back is your rudder vs. your prop.
Thanks
Robert

Robert... I'll see what I can do, but it's basically just slightly aft of the drive-dog. I'd have preferred for the leading edge to be even with the drive-dog, but it seems to work where it is. I'll see if I can take a pic tonight.

[LiPo Power]

Great, thanks!
Robert

Robert... I'll see what I can do, but it's basically just slightly aft of the drive-dog. I'd have preferred for the leading edge to be even with the drive-dog, but it seems to work where it is. I'll see if I can take a pic tonight.

[mike c]

Widowmakers are nightmares. This boat is night and day compared to the WM. You will be 100% happy with a MG over a WM, not even a comparison! Your moving from a Chevy Aveo to a Cadilliac CTS V-series (no offense to those that drive aveo's )

thanx man thats what i was hoping for just wanted to hear b 4 i pull the purchase trigger