Miss Geico Race Prep

[ray schrauwen]

It comes in bottle & bomb. It's acrylic lacquer. They have nice pearl clear etc. Lots to choose from but, expensive. Tape downs didn't seem to peel up any paint at all, not even the clear coats. If you try to lay it too heavy too fast the colours can run but, only if you rush it like I did in one spot.

I'll try to find pics of that mono in red, white & blue.

I'm going to try, or at least check out the Molotow bombs, a store not too far sells it.

[Brushless55]

Spastix makes chrome pain for polycarbonate bodies. I wonder if it would work on the outside, instead of on the inside like lexan bodies are painted....Hmm...now I have to try a little on something and see what happens!

it will work on the outside, it wont look the same but you can try it

[Darin Jordan]

FINALLY got a chance to race my MG this past weekend. Didn't do too badly, considering that it was really my first time REALLY racing the thing. Course was REALLY tight on the ends (MAYBE 25ft radius turns... MAYBE), and the conditions went from bad to misserable, AND, the driver needs to get some BALLS and learn to drive this boat on the pins, but overall, it did pretty well.

Bone stock, except for the mods described in this thread... re: bottom trued, offset rudder, 5.5mm contacts... and I put in a 60A PB ESC instead of the 45A stocker, just because I had one and needed to use the boat to test some other things for PB while I was there...

Not quite there on speed yet, but there is more in the tank. We'll build up to using it all.

[brian6989]

Great video looks like fun

[ron1950]

looked like just another sunny day in the northwest lol

[d.a.v.e]

what prop were you running?

[Darin Jordan]

what prop were you running?

I tuned it down a tad for the crappy conditions and so I could get some other aspects dialed in, so I was running an ABC 45x55, which is a reliable performer.

There is quite a bit more speed in the setup, but, as you can tell from the video, I need to work on getting the handling and the timing down so I can stay on the course before I worry about making the boat faster. The gap to 1st wouldn't have been nearly what it was if I'd just stayed on the buoys...

When I tested props for just speed previously, this prop was good for 43-45mph consistently...

[Darin Jordan]

looked like just another sunny day in the northwest lol

No doubt... this was the very last heat of the day... and the skies opened up just as we got started. Gotta love packing up in the rain!

[ron1950]

spectrun needs to make a rain cover for the 3s and 3r lol i know id buy one...i hate it when u are racing and it opens up on ya...nowhere to hide that tx

[john722010]

Darin,
I think I have covered every thread on both the MG and the Mystic Cat looking for a detailed description of how to blueprint a hull. Even check Youtube.
I just got my Mystic Cat and ran on 4S stock 34 MPH. I have a 642 prop comming and I need to dial in the strut, but blueprinting seems to be a major step in improving performance.

Are there any sites or videos, that you know of that will provide detailed description on how to blueprint, beyond what you have provided?

What type paint do you use to paint the bottom of the boat after blueprinting?

This is my first Cat and I don't want to do this and make a mistake.
Thanks
John722010

[TheShaughnessy]

Darin,
I think I have covered every thread on both the MG and the Mystic Cat looking for a detailed description of how to blueprint a hull. Even check Youtube.
I just got my Mystic Cat and ran on 4S stock 34 MPH. I have a 642 prop comming and I need to dial in the strut, but blueprinting seems to be a major step in improving performance.

Are there any sites or videos, that you know of that will provide detailed description on how to blueprint, beyond what you have provided?

What type paint do you use to paint the bottom of the boat after blueprinting?

This is my first Cat and I don't want to do this and make a mistake.
Thanks
John722010

This thread gives about all the detail you should really need. Rattle can paint has worked for me in the past, just ask the guy at the paint shop.

[ray schrauwen]

Look at Darin's pictures in ppost #43.

I use a Great planes 1 foot long sanding block with adhesive backed paper. Started with rough 80 or 100 grit ro rough it up slightly first and see the dips in the sponson flats. but, Darin's method with angle aluminum would have been better in my hindsight now this thread came back.

Then sand the divits by hand so filler will stick. I used spot putty and an old bank card to level them off after a bit more sanding. You want to be able to lay a ruler along the length of each sponson and have it nice & flat.

Like He said, tons of info in here near the front 4 pages on the sponson work.

OK... FINALLY got around to doing some prep work for the Miss G for Offshore Racing...

Pretty basic. Fist step, Get the sponsons flat, true, and sharp.

After block sanding just a tad, it is obvious that filler is necessary, so used some Evercoat light body filler and a flat spreader and filled in the ride pad surfaces, then block sanded once it was set. One pass was plenty. They flattened out nicely.

Next step was to sharpen the edges. To do this, material needed to be added. Again, using the same filler, I used some pieces of aluminum angle, that has perfect 90-degee inside corners, to spread the filler along the inside edges of the sponsons. I trimed down a piece of angle to make it small enough to spread the filler on the trailing edges of the sponsons as well.

[john722010]

Thanks, all this helps.

[4343]

so will sanding my geico hull flat on bottom get rid of my bouncing or will it not do much at all?? Ive just put in a leopard 3674 1650 kv motor to add some weight, see if it helps.

[d.a.v.e]

No sanding will not help with the bouncing most folks do this to help flatten/sharpen the sponsons. Sharper corners help with better turning and somewhat with speed.

To eliminate the bouncing you just need to play with the strut and battery locations and eventually you can get it pretty well eliminated.