How's your canopy fit Rabosi?
Looking for Offshore Warrior or similar
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Hey guys, well finally got my MK2 in the water. Runs the same as you guys mentioned with the stock setup. Being the first run I only did about 4 mins and all temps were less than 110F. I did get a couple tablespoons of water inside but I believe it's coming up the prop shaft since I bathtub check before and had no leaks. May have to silicone the area where the strut meets the transom. btw I used some weather seal type foam around the lip of the boat to make a seal with the canopy and had good success with it. Fully submerged in bathtub for about 20 sec and only had a couple very small drops which could have possibly fell in when I opened it up. I bought one of the TFL x432 and threw it on (not s/b). Boat seemed a tad quicker but still too low in water. Overall I'm actually happy with it. Of course I'm already contemplating my next speed upgrade.Comment
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You need to seal where the stuffing tube goes into the strut, also on the coupling end of the stuffing tube fit a short piece of silicon water tube over the end of the tube so it seals against the flex. Foam around the hatch in my experience does not seal 100%, you still need to tape the hatch as well. Also make sure the strut is greased not only for lube purposes but it also prevents water entering & going up the stuffing tube into the boat.Comment
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I put my battery back in the stock location and the damn thing still won't self-right. I'm about ready to order the Warrior motor mount and epoxy it into my Super Mono X (I really miss running my Super Mono X......the thing is unsinkable).
I've made a lexan hatch cover and it helps with water instrusion. I plan on making another lexan perimeter 'gasket' that I'll seal to the hull and give a better seal to the main lexan cover. The MK2's hatch design curves, so it's really hard to seal.
I've convinced Banggood to update their website with the MK2's pictures:
I've also convinced them to carry the XBlaze hulls, which should be on the website soon.
Rabosi can you show pictures of your sealing setup please? Thanks.Comment
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MassiveOverkill thats my Warrior that you responded to on Youtube, re selfrighting you must play around with them as the Warrior will not selfright out of the box. I always use higher c rated cells which are heavier to aid righting, if thats still not enough which i suspect it wont be add stick on balance weights along the edge of the deck untill it self rights. On mine i also modded the hatch with an offset raised bubble on top of the hatch, i dont have to wait for the boat to self right as it like a cork & rights instantly as you can see in the video.Comment
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MassiveOverkill thats my Warrior that you responded to on Youtube, re selfrighting you must play around with them as the Warrior will not selfright out of the box. I always use higher c rated cells which are heavier to aid righting, if thats still not enough which i suspect it wont be add stick on balance weights along the edge of the deck untill it self rights. On mine i also modded the hatch with an offset raised bubble on top of the hatch, i dont have to wait for the boat to self right as it like a cork & rights instantly as you can see in the video.
Keep in mind that HK's shipping puts that $55 to ~$90, plus they're always out of stock.Last edited by MassiveOverkill; 09-13-2012, 12:45 PM.Comment
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Thanks for the sealing tips Martin. I had already planned on sealing the strut area and did grease the stuffing tube. I will also try the silicone tube at the coupler. As far as the hatch seal, I think I will just re-do it when it stops keeping water out. Easy than taping every time out I think. I have not tested the self-righting yet but figured it's all about weight placement.
Massive here's a photo of my "gasket". Not the greatest work but working well right now. The adhesive is very sticky and a bit tricky to work with.
2012-09-13 13.11.08.jpgComment
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I got this of a forum member Keithbradley. He also sells hatch bolt kits. I bought a bunch of different weather stripping stuff both home and automotive but the stuff he sells seem much better. A bit closer to the material on your Super Mono gasket. I actually contemplated using some silicone to adhere the SuperMono gasket since it's almost the same size but I had this stuff lying around already.
found the original posting
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...t=keithbradleyComment
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Well second run with s/b tfl 432 prop was much better. Boat moves very well now. Water was a little rough and the hatch popped off the front pin even though I had a strip of tape over front area also (pin is too short). She was submerged except for nose but I was able to drive it back to shore. The hull was completely filled with water. I drained the water out put a new battery in, taped the entire hatch and off it went again. I had to do a recovery because it flipped over and would not self-right. I will have to play around with the weight. Continued running after I flipped it back. Temps after run were all under 100F. Still some small issues I have to iron out but I really like it.
here a small clip of the hatch incident.
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