Looking for Offshore Warrior or similar

[martin]

Yep trim tabs are a must on the Warrior when increaseing speeds, ive used them for 2 years. Simply cant keep the modded boat on the water without them, they also help with torque roll when using larger props + the torque that an outrunner can give.

[CP598]

Using the stock 30a esc you need to be carefull on prop choices ecspecially going to metal props where theirs no flex in the blades over plastic that give a bit. You will eventually blow the esc by pushing things, then change to a higher amp esc where you will be much safer re pushing speeds.

Yep....I switched to a seaking 35a before the stock one burned up. Thinking I should have went with a 60a or bigger

[3b3b]

I also personally dont like grub screw couplings & use either Octura & Etti collet couplings, their kinda to the flex where as the grub screw bites into the flex & where i take my shafts out to dry & grease every time i get home im undoing & doing up the grub screw type so many times it ruins the flex. The collet type i find are more positive as well when tightened. Just my choice though.

Totally agree. What Octura collet will fit with the stock motor and shaft?

[martin]

I use both Octura & Etti collets, Oct 18098 1/8" to .098 or Etti Flex Hex 1/8" to .098. Both available in the OSE store.

[3b3b]

I use both Octura & Etti collets, Oct 18098 1/8" to .098 or Etti Flex Hex 1/8" to .098. Both available in the OSE store.

thanks!

[MassiveOverkill]

Well, I got her and I'm not happy. She is a Mk2 and comes without radio\receiver as suspected. My Super Mono X plastic hull is very rigid. I can squeeze the hull and canopy and not worrying about flexing. Do that with the Warrior hull and you'll hear cracking. The hull is very weak with the top deck being weaker. The gelcoat is thin and the rear hull has major hooks. You need tape to seal the canopy as the fit is horrible. Mine is once-again victim to Chineese labor and a screw for the rudder mount is misthreaded and I'm having a hell of a time getting it removed. The rudder pushrod is bent to hell.

Absolutely disgusted right now.

[martin]

I think the mk2 is a step back from the mk1, the mk1 you can use a lexan inner cover that is sealed with tape 100% waterfroof. I then also tape around the hatch as well just for more security, the hatch taping is also 100% as i dont get any water between the hatch & cover. The hulls are very thin, with the speeds & mishaps i get i glass the inside of the hulls to make them thicker & much stronger ecspecially at the front & around the deck joint. Ive hit the bottom of the lake to many times at wot in 3foot of water, by strengthening they now withstand these impacts. I also fill any hooks in any monos that needs it,i know its a pain doing this but its something i come to expect with Chinese products. I wonder if any of thses boats are seconds that their selling direct.

[rabosi]

That is disappointing. Unfortunately this can sometimes be one of the pitfalls of buying a first run product as well as buying direct from China. I'm inclined to agree with martin that maybe these are production line rejects that they are selling directly. I still have gotten any indication of shipping for mine btw.

[MassiveOverkill]

OK, so my motor is overheating. I haven't screwed with the strut angle (stock) and water is flowing through the cooling loop.

The stock strut to dog clearance is zero. I noticed that the motor is setup up that it has play to allow for shrinkage but that it's fighting magnetic force to do so. If I add play like you're supposed to, the rear ball bearing in the stinger can back out of the housing, possibly allowing water entry.

Do I run zero clearance at the stinger, or your normal flex cable width clearance? I guess I'd have to glue the rear bearing in place. Nothing is hot from the coupler back. Could it also be run times?

I'll check my motor timing too, it's probably set too advanced, Martin you remember what stock timing is on these motors?

EDIT: I had it set to 21 degrees for my outrunner and backed it down to 7.5 so we'll see later today if makes a difference.

The boat is very fast in stock form and handles better than even my Super Mono X, which is a surprise. I'm using the hatch tape and get very little water entry but I plan on rigging something up so that I won't have to use hatch tape.

Thanks.

[martin]

I dont know what timing is needed on the stock FSD 2 pole motors as i dont know whether their a D wind or y wind, as i never messed using the stock motors other than on the stock esc which is preset. Re the gap at the dog i leave around 1/16" gap + the bit of float thats in the motor shaft, if its to close the dog will bind against the bearing with flex wind up. It dosnt take much on these small low powered motors to cause problems re binding & heat.

[rabosi]

The high timing (21 deg) might be causing the heat issue. iirc 2 pole motors need even less timing than 4 poles

[martin]

Re more cooling i use a small round file on the rudder pickup hole & bring the groove to the front of the blade, even going in past the thickness at the front of the blade so that theirs a full hole facing foward. Rather than the original hole facing out at an angle from the blade to get better flow.

[MassiveOverkill]

I checked my rudder pickup and noticed the vertical bore is the diameter of the nozzle, but then shrinks down to a smaller size. I may drill it all the way through to the horizontal pickup and maybe enlarge that hole as well as Martin did, but with a drill bit.

[martin]

The horizontal hole needs its angle changing to face more foward rather than the hole going into the blade at an angle as the original hole does so opening up the horizontal hole & changing its angle helps a lot, you then end up with a longer groove right to the front of the blade for better pick up. I also open up the nipple at the top of the rudder as this restricts the flow with its smaller diam, but you limited how much larger you can go without breaking through the threaded area. Every little helps though.

[MassiveOverkill]

Well with the new timing, increased dog-stinger clearance, and opened up rudder she still overheats, not as bad but still hot to the touch. I really need to get an IR thermometer to see if she's within limits. Batteries aren't as hot though, so that's a plus. I'm wondering if I need to adjust the strut angle to get more of the hull out of the water..........she's almost too stable.