Tweet
Bro go get you a $30 flycolor 150a off ebay and you will be good
-
-
I have ran the hell out of 3 of them with no issuezComment
-
I don't think a 150 amp ESC will handle the load. I just think I'm doing something wrong when I try to calibrate and link the esc and my TX. I'm going to read through the instructions again and check the threads on the esc page and try again. If it still doesn't work, I will solder bullets on the other one I have and try it. I hope I can get the first one to work because I have already cut the shrink wrap off and potted the whole unit in epoxy to waterproof it. Live and learn, try things on the bench before doing any work on them. If anyone else reads this, any help with calibrating and linking a Swordfish ESC (220 amp Pro) would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
BobComment
-
It seems that Steve Neu can't get the timing message consistant. He posted this on RC Groups six months ago:Yea you ran a hydro and I ran a mono with the same motor. I ran 0 timing so motor didn't get as hot. Even Steve Neu recommends 0 timing to gain efficiency and less heat. 0 timing should never get you more heat. A hydro can run a lot more loose than a mono.....
Originally posted by sneuERROR 403 - This is not the page you are looking for
Comment
-
Jay
I have talked to Steve and he says you get the best efficiency at 0 timing. Period. You can get an extra 3 to 5 mph by adding timing but at the expense of more heat in the esc. How many sport boaters do you need to read they burned up there esc while playing with timing. They think they can just copy what the veteran does without knowing the consequence.
A .5 wye is a very low inductance motor and any esc can have a hard time reading the motor. Steve suggest raising the PWM rate can help here sometimes. Or adding more caps. But I would never start at 15 deg timing on this motor and would start at 0 before raising it to check temps. I know you know this already but many here do not. So I do not think it's a good idea to jump in to tell somebody running a .5 wye in a mono to start at 10 to 15 deg. timing because it worked for you in your hydro. My comments are aimed at sport boaters who don't know better. Not at veterans who can claim my comments aren't technically right. I know how this game works just like you.
MarkComment
-
Okay, I think that I have narrowed down what's happening. I'm pretty sure I have the ESC calibrated correctly. I can run the motor at full throttle without any problem. If I try to run a partial throttle or change speed, it seems that the leds on my RX flash once and the throttle drops out. When I let go of the throttle, I get two beeps and the throttle is reactivated. Am I getting a low voltage to my RX because of the draw from the motor and ESC ? I'm using 2-2S Revo 5000 mah packs with a full charge. They are brand new. I would have thought that they have enough juice to run this system. Anyone have any thoughts? Should I try a separate RX battery pack? As I said before, I'm using a Hitec Lynx TX with their Proton RX. If I try a separate battery for the RX, I've read that I have to cut the red wire from the ESC to the RX, is that correct? Again, any help or ideas would greatly appreciated. I really want to get this boat running.
Regards,
BobComment
-
First off, you should never be running any motor at full throttle on the bench for more than a second or 2. Anymore could burn up the motor or the esc up. Wait till you have water to run in and try it again. Also make sure your packs are warm. If there cold, that will cause LVC to happen sooner. I think your equipment is fine.
MarkComment
-
What radio? Is it possible you are getting a brown out on your Rx if you're using Bec? Could you try a separate Rx pack?
Yes, you need to remove the red wire. It's easiest with an extension or if you carefully remove the whole red wire with connector from plug casing.
Nortavlag Bulc Comment
-
Also, after ANY AND ALL THROTTLE calibration, shut it all down and disconnect main packs, then plug back in before test or running. This is for SF escs. Nortavlag Bulc Comment
-
I only ran for a second or two. Running a Hitec Lynx with a Hitec Proton RX. I'm thinking that Ray is correct. I'm getting low voltage to my RX under load. I'm heading into town to see if I can pick up a RX battery pack. Slim pickings in Montana, if not I can rig up a 2S pack by making up a jumper with the appropriate connectors. Do you guys think I'm getting a brown out or I'm bumping the LVC. I'm seeing a reaction on the LEDs on my RX. That leads me to think brown out and not LVC.Comment
-
I did the shut down after calibration. Throttle seems to work fine, except for it dropping out on anything other then full throttle. Like I said before, on partial throttle, the LEDs on the RX blink once and the throttle drops out. Then I let off throttle and I get 2 beeps and the throttle is re-energized.Comment
-
Just try an RX pack, 4 AA batteries will do.
If you crack open a 9v battery it has 6AAA batteries inside. You can remove 2 and the rest are already wired up except for the + & - mains.use some tape once they are opened up to prevent short circuits.
Don't forget to remove the red esc wire!!! Nortavlag Bulc Comment
-
Gotcha. Never went into town today. Have to go to work tomorrow so I'll be in town and pick something up. Will keep you posted.
BobComment
-
Just food for thought here, Your TX has had a couple of firmware updates. Your RX has an operating range of 4.8, to 35 vdc. Some servos can handle aprox. 9 volts. I have 1 boat that uses a 2S RX battery unregulated.Comment
-
Good point. I'll have to check the servo in this boat. I know it's a Spectrum. I don't think it's one that can handle higher voltage. I will check the updates on the TX as well. I can also swap in a digital servo that will handle higher voltage. I use them in most of my other boats. I knew the TX could handle higher voltage, I had pulled out the instructions last night. I just didn't think to check the servo.Comment
Comment