Can i fix this?

[tlandauer]

I see, Have a great time tomorrow, great job on the repair!

[boilo56]

Thank you! Tomorrow, ill test the gt3b tx/rx combo. I dumped the tactic combo, cause the fail safe didn't work. Now the gt3b's fail safe work just fine i tested it,and the motor stops when signal is lost.

[boilo56]

I went running the boat today! Everything was fine! No leaks, no cracks! But i noticed the cog has moved a bit forward. probably because of the epoxy on the bow.

[tlandauer]

I went running the boat today! Everything was fine! No leaks, no cracks! But i noticed the cog has moved a bit forward. probably because of the epoxy on the bow.

Awesome! Did you get to try some different props?

[boilo56]

Awesome! Did you get to try some different props?

Yes, i tried the x442 from octura, and the grimracer 42x55. The x442 got me to 52kph on 4s, and 60kph on 5s. The grimracer prop seemed slower, i didn't gps the run. But like i said in this tread:http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...-with-my-setup i think i still have some problems.

[tlandauer]

Yes, i tried the x442 from octura, and the grimracer 42x55. The x442 got me to 52kph on 4s, and 60kph on 5s. The grimracer prop seemed slower, i didn't gps the run. But like i said in this tread:http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...-with-my-setup i think i still have some problems.

yes, I am reading it...

[Peter A]

Hi, my boat went submarine and hit the bottom of the river. When it came back up to the surface, i noticed some damages on the nose of the boat. Can this be fixed?
[ATTACH=CONFIG]132699[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]132700[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]132701[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]132702[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]132703[/ATTACH]

https://youtu.be/8iWc5B-uYFA

Thanks!

Mine got run over by a gasser last year!20140406_172423.jpg
Some epoxy glue taped over while it cured and it has been racing like that since. Gonna strip, blueprint and repaint later this year.

[boilo56]

Ouch, that looks bad! Glad you were able to repair it! i also plan on re-doing the repairs during next winter.

[electric]

Now you have a race ready nose. Take out your fellow racers with the battering ram. LOL. I did that same repair to a SV27 when I got started. The nose of that boat became indestructible! Great repair job!!

[boilo56]

Now you have a race ready nose. Take our your fellow racers with the battering ram. LOL. I did that same repair to a SV27 when I got started. The nose of that boat became indestructible! Great repair job!!

thank you, this was my first boat repair!

[electric]

thank you, this was my first boat repair!

You will find boat repair to be a integral part of the hobby. That is how it all starts and you seem to have the ability to do it. Three years later you will be building them from scratch..haha

[boilo56]

Yep, i know it will be like that! But it still too much fun!

[boilo56]

Hi everyone! I would like some advice about hull repairs.My problem is the top off my boat is cracked all along the hatch opening, on the left side.IMG_20150628_155835.jpgIMG_20150628_155913.jpgIMG_20150628_155918.jpgIMG_20150628_155928.jpg
What should i do?

[Heath M]

You'll probably want to line the inside with fiberglass or carbon fiber tape so it holds the join together.

[tlandauer]

Get in there and sand as good as you can, 100 grit or 120 grid. Then use this:http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXK255&P=SM with Epoxy. I use West System, it has the right thickness ( rather the thin viscosity) for you to brush on, but it is expensive and doesn't make sense to buy just to fix this. The Z-poxy 30 min. epoxy is too thick, so the next best thing is their Finishing epoxy. I only use that to do repair as Finishing epoxy is not meant as a pure structurally adhesive glue in that it is more brittle and structurally not as strong as the Z-poxy regular 30 min epoxy. But with inlay work it is fine.
What you need to so is cut a length as long as you can do at one time, no need to cover the whole length of the crack, you can over lay it later, important thing to remember is brush the epoxy on the hull inside where you are going to lay this strip just enough , no over dripping. Do not put epoxy on the strip (yet). Use your bare hand (fingers) to position the strip over the crack line, now let the epoxy SOAK into the strip, this is important because two things need to be achieved, first the soaking will IMOBILIZE the strip so you can work on further positioning, second you need to make sure there is no air pocket underneath.
Only when you see the entire strip is soaked then you may brush more epoxy over the strip. Be careful that your brush is not moving the strip---it is easy to do that.
I have done repairs like this many times.
As for outside, the least disturbing will be to use thin CA to carefully run along the hair line crack, let the CA "drip" inside the line and be careful with over run. Very little amount and have Acetone ready by yourside incase the bottle over runs the glue to your hand and be EXTREMELY aware that there is no over run on the hull. Position the hull level so the glue will not run. Againn, proceed with care and you don't need to do it at one setting. Over run glue outside will make you very unhappy!!!!!

You should use masking tape to cover the entire hull while doing the inside repair, have denatured alcohol ready and paper towers ready, the expoxy will be washed away. Some recommend wearing vinyl gloves (food prepairing gloves bought at super market) as some people's skin is sensitive to epoxy, I never used them and I like to feel the area I am working with my bare fingers to make sure that there is no air pocket underneath, and the one thing I have is thick skin, lol....

Good Luck! ---- you will do a fantastic job , the tip of your bow is testimony of your craftsmanship!