Shocker First Maiden Run -- ESC Literally BLOWS through Hull

[tlandauer]

Not bad at all!!!! , you are not alone...

[nata2run]

While it is desirable to have the trailing edge of the tear drop pick up rigged at an angle, I had no space in my build (other than having the pick up tube placed straight up) and did just what you had done and was fine. [ATTACH=CONFIG]131803[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]131802[/ATTACH]
I am by no means contradicting what's been said, I just want to chime in and say that this will give you water. The shaping of the channel is very important as well and you have corrected the shape.
All new teflon liners come wrapped in a circle, when you place them in the drive, there is a curve . I have not tried to straighten them out and I don't actually know if they respond to heat or not, you can try. Granted, my don't protrude that much, I used stingers and drives where only less than 1/2 inch sticks out and the curve does not have a chance to add drag yet at that length. I prefer to have the curve where the liner is inside the brass tube as it adds resistance to turn along with the cable.
I want to ask you this, if you take the liner out and try to stick it into the drive barrel, how far does it go before hitting the bushings? Show us a picture.....

Those fancy pickups will pick up water, but to pick up more water....
DSCN7358.jpg

[tlandauer]

Kent, thank you so much, I don't know how I missed that detail, these were actually inspired by you. Srislash (Shawn) helped me when I built the twin H&M Intruder S and he linked me to one of your tutorials on the tear shaped pick up, I did read through it many times but missed this detail, I will correct that.
Awesome, friend!

[dmitry100]

nata2run: So basically just deeper tear drops near the actual metallic part of the intake then? Should I go a little more deeper with mine? >> http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...8&d=1431285176

[dmitry100]

Guys... I was thinking about picking up some MTC drives for this thing. What type of MTC's do you guys think would fit best on this Shocker hull-- the MTC Power Trim V PX-1 120mm (genesis) version?

[kevinpratt823]

I would have to agree with nata on the angle. In my recent build I had little room, and could only lean the tube a tiny bit back, my teardrops are also a couple inches forward of the sponson trailing edge. I still had enough water pressure to blow by the original single zip tie connection of the inlet hose to tube on one side, even with the tube flared out at the top, and water is clearly streaming out even at relatively low speed. I was surprised at how much flow I ended up with.

[iridebikes247]

You can't get the genesis one, my friend and I have been running the px-1 mtc drives for awhile now and they're great, but are not in production at the moment. srislash is a member on here who has owned a shocker or two with a twin setup he would definitely know what drives to put on.

I think keith has the mtc drives in the 90mm version, they're some of the nicest drives going but possibly too short for what this hull likes. I would send keith and srislash (shawn) a pm.

[nata2run]

nata2run: So basically just deeper tear drops near the actual metallic part of the intake then? Should I go a little more deeper with mine? >> http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...8&d=1431285176

You can go abit deeper, but I would recommend to use a tool bit like shown above. Dremmel 3/16 chain saw sharper bit is what I use. On very low rpm.

[dmitry100]

Ok thanks... I'll ask them (unless they are monitoring this thread :))

Is it at all normal for a Swordfish ESC (on Flysky radio) to go full throttle when transmitter is turned off? Or is this more of a Flysky issue. Definitely not a good thing at all lol.

And are the Hilfei guys aware that their software has a bug on Windows 8 ? Its not even anything major-- just a window resizing issue that any novice programmer could fix but it's bad enough that I'm unable to use any of the logging features.

[dmitry100]

Here are some progress pics.... I've added some "automotive grade" fiberglass cloth and epoxy to the front seams and tips and then filled it up with water-resistant gap filler foam. The hull already feels slightly heavier :) I guess it isn't so bad compared to the shell of a box it used to be. I was thinking about maybe using the fiberglass cloth for an inlay in the rest of the hull. Seems like nicely woven and strong cloth. What do you guys think... could I just maybe use some black glossy paint or maybe some sort of black colored epoxy/resin to match the rest of the hull for the inlay, or would a Carbon Fiber inlay be a far much more superior (and better looking) inlay?

foam1.jpg

prebuild.jpg

[ray schrauwen]

Fiberglass laid on top of Carbon usually becomes invisible. Nice poochy there

[srislash]

Fiberglass laid on top of Carbon usually becomes invisible. Nice poochy there

And forms an awesome barrier against accidental power wire/CF shorts. I laid nice panel of FG under my ESC's.

BTW I have a pair of the 80mm MTC drives here and they look like a good fit on the Shocker.

[dmitry100]

srislash: Are they brand new? What model/version? How much are you looking to get for them... if you're looking to sell them that is.

So I spent the entire day putting this thing together today-- from the AM to evening and it was too dark to give it a shot in the water, but here's how it looks now. (that cap bank isn't very space conservative :/)

Just gotta figure out how to sync up the throttles on these SF ESC's... one of them seems to be nice and gradual throttle. The other one is jerky and doesn't even spin until almost half throttle. So tomorrow I'll need to try to reset the calibration and do them both at the same time. The power switch on the SF esc's don't exactly power them down right... I have to plug them out from battery to get it into the calibration mode? I calibrated them separately before hand so that must be why. These are a bit tricky... the Seakings took like a few minutes max and it was done.

Hopefully these TP 4050's don't end up tearing off those motor mounts...

[kevinpratt823]

Not sure what you mean about unplugging to get into calibration mode? On my sf esc's all I need to do is turn the esc switch off, then hold full throttle while turning it back on, after the second beep release throttle to neutral, and that's it. I do them individually on my twin and it seems fine. Make sure both esc's are set to the same start mode (soft/standard/hard)

[dmitry100]

Ok, finally got the throttles synced up as closely as I can... and they seem to rotate at exact same time. I taped the 2 ESC switches together to do it and that seemed to work... i just had to make sure the beeps were in exact harmony with each other first otherwise i'd have to do it over.

I have the Flysky (GT3C) radio/transmitter. So its actually a bit different than what I have to do. Its actually Full throttle to Reverse throttle. Dual Rate and Exponential have to be both set at 50% along with End Points set to 100% (default profile settings). Thats the only time it seems to take effect with the 2 beeps. Even changing these transmitter settings later-- you have to set it back to those default values to be able to do throttle calibration again otherwise it doesn't work. Its weird. I have not even been able to dig up any info about this