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32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was -
Haha yeah. Not worth it man.
Still luv ya brosef \m/
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkThere's a hole at the center of earth where the rest of the world sinks but i stand still...Comment
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kfxguy: What kind of hatch bolt kit do you use? I've been looking all over for some anodized colored black, red, or purple ones and no luck.Comment
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Also guys ... is any part of these TP motors salvageable in any way? Maybe bearings or the cans? or maybe sending it in for any kind of discount or credit?Comment
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I have had 2 instances where the fail safe did not work, one was because I used a car receiver and water got in. The other I had a dual receiver hooked up wrong and at radio loss it powered off of the wrong channel. The second incident the boat hit a dock and exploded about 10' from the transom of a 42' power boat worth about $500,000. Both instances I got lucky nothing major was damaged other than the rc boat. Failsafes are huge and I will not run without checking them prior to each run.
I have a question about the original setup the hot wire is unsoldered. Was it loose when the explosion occurred? I have seen that wire cause havoc if it pops loose and if it arced on the esc case could explain why the esc was red hot.Comment
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Too many boats, not enough time...
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Chrissharp: Which unsoldered hot wire do you mean?
Do any of you guys know if there's any kind of temp-based telemetry that allows to do an automatic cut off failsafe of ESC or motors?
Some hatch bolts and foam definitely would be nice ... what would you guys recommend?Comment
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Other than sending them in for repair and wait, you will have little use for the salvaged parts. The very idea of these Chinese motors is that they are more or less expandable items.
I would not buy 2000+kv motors to run with 6s, I know this had been discussed, but you are a sport boater, and there will be just a little more margin for tolerance. No thrills will be gained if every run is done with white knuckles.
Something is not kosher with your drive lines and now that you need to redo them, perhaps it is not a bad thing after all, another words if this bad accident didn't happen yesterday, something in the future will bother you again.
Always check fail safe, I think I mentioned earlier, part throttle and turn off transmitter, motor(s) should come to a stop. May be you did that already, sorry to bring that up.
I wish you the best and the good thing is that you are learning really quickly and will be much better armed with knowledge, there is really no such thing as a FREE LESSON and this is tuition we all paid sometime down out path.Too many boats, not enough time...Comment
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the red 10 gauge that is the hot input from the battery in your original pics. guess I was bringing up old news since you've moved to a new setup already.Comment
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The motors are donezo and I don't think you'll be getting a warranty. I would get leopard 4074 1800-2000kv and just get used to it. You'll have enough room to make a mistake here and there without cooking the whole boat again. IMO just getting on the water and enjoying the hobby for a month before going all out is a good move.
Also, I suggest MBP collets on here, and the 3/16" flex sold on the site. Also a stuffing tube support. You have a powerful setup and with the flex to collet interface of this boat being "different," I think you can and should eliminate the increased torsional vibration this setup will have. Could be why that ten shock cooked, who knows.
--You've had quite a few woes with this setup, at this point I think fool proofing the setup is the answer. As far as hatch bolts go there are a lot of different setups out there that work and keep the hatch on in a crash. Whenever I build a cat I go with 4mm SS screws, and 4-8 hatch bolts depending on hull size. The thing is with a 4mm screw most hatches will be chewed up after being countersunk so myself, Manuel, Chris and a few others started adding molded epoxy blocks to the bottom of the hatch, it eliminates the air void and keeps the hatch from deforming around the screw head.
nomad hatch.jpgIMG_20140622_175312_026.jpgComment
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iridebikes247: The epoxy block idea is a great pro tip... I could see how the hatch would need that as its rather flimsy to begin with... perhaps some fiberglass inlay in the hatch in addition to the epoxy blocks for the hatch bolts would do some good. Do you think those leopards are more durable than the TP motors?
Do you guys know if West systems sells any smaller sized amounts of epoxy? Not sure if I would need as much as they normally sell in those large containers. Or maybe a different brand of maybe some black colored epoxy. MHZ seems to have some black adhesive that they sell on their site which they recommend for mounts and so forth.
tlandauer: Yea, but the drivelines were fine until the boat flipped and throttle went all out to 50k+ rpm and melted one of the the stuffing tubes... if not for the screwed up throttle/failsafe I'd still have a new pair of good motors and driveline. I get what you're saying about the margin of tolerance, but if you look at the SF Esc data graphs I posted earlier the boat was rather "cold" to touch at technically 50% throttle (pistol was at full throttle in the last run before flip) due to the throttle not being calibrated correctly. The props were only 38mm 3 blades... and yet it was still fast at that half throttle with a low amp pull. If I was to go with TP 4050's 1700kv's instead it would make up for the lower RPM with more torque instead though right? So bigger props for an equivalent in speed then.Comment
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Yes, 1700 on 6s is more comfortable, but I did not say anything because the on going different ideas on running 6s on kv. You can indeed run a bigger prop but do so gradually, I recommend get 40 mm and gradually to 42mm and up, even that depends on your temp and log record. That is the fun part to learn how much you can push.
I mentioned the drive live because I wasn't too comfortable with the stuffing tube setup, you need a support near the collet end. Also I wondered why after the "blowup" the stuffing tube was almost touching the coupler. Did the stuffing tube move? Looks like there was hi temp and the metal discolored.
I will get collets in the future, not couplers, these things aren't friendly to the cable, the set screw bites the cable and will flattened the cable in the long run.Too many boats, not enough time...Comment
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I use some stainless ones that are very nice. Knurled.
These are 3/4" but they sell 1" ones too. I keep both sizes on hand. I'll take a pic of them tonight. They are very nice.
32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) wasComment
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Lower kv doesn't mean more torque, and running a bigger prop to make up for lost rpm will not work the way you imagine it will.
There is the coloring agent by evercoat, sold at west marine. Fiberglass cloth when used with black epoxy actually looks really good, a few years back I did an inlay with black pigmented epoxy and it was very clean looking. As far as the leopard vs tp thing goes, I've cooked a ton of TP motors and never a leopard, even with poorly thought out setups. I think 1800-2000kv is a wise choice with 442-445 props on 4s, 5s, 6s.
Gone are the days of 50 mph being fast on these forums, the thing is the guys that went 50, then 60, 70, 80, and onward gained an appreciation for the tuning aspect of the hull as power was always an issue.Last edited by iridebikes247; 05-16-2015, 11:25 AM.Comment
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