Shocker First Maiden Run -- ESC Literally BLOWS through Hull

[IRON-PAWW]

Going from memory, as I'm not at home, I don't think the extra water fittings idea works because one side fouls on the caps there. But - what you *can* do is insert a short length of metal tube between the heatsink fins on the other side. You can then get some heat conducting glue like Arctic Silver to help set it in place and aid with heat transfer. You can crimp the tube down a little as well to make it fit. Properchopper came up with that idea and it works a treat. I did it to mine no prob. Will take a photo later if you like.

[dmitry100]

Yea, send me a pic. You mean there's no threads to screw in more water inlets/outlets on the heatsink?

[IRON-PAWW]

Not exactly. There's a second watercooling hole drilled through the heatsink. Or another hole that looks like you could run water through it. But the problem is that on one side, the capacitors block that second hole. That means you can't just screw water fittings into the existing extra cooling holes. If you removed the capacitor in the way you could - but you have to know what you're doing to do that. Take a look at your v3 and you'll see what I mean.

[dmitry100]

Ahhh ok, I'll take a look.

BTW ... any of you guys have any experience with CF cloth that already comes with 3M adhesive like this? >> http://compositeenvisions.com/carbon...poxy-1440.html
Makes me wonder if I should give it a shot for reinforcement... if it works out it would be a non-messy way of going about doing the hull inlay and fixing some of the seams.

[tlandauer]

Not exactly. There's a second watercooling hole drilled through the heatsink. Or another hole that looks like you could run water through it. But the problem is that on one side, the capacitors block that second hole. That means you can't just screw water fittings into the existing extra cooling holes. If you removed the capacitor in the way you could - but you have to know what you're doing to do that. Take a look at your v3 and you'll see what I mean.

This was my single biggest disappointment, when I saw the picture I thought to myself I could add an additional loop, but as you said, it is not possible and honestly the way they seal the caps I don't think it would be a good idea to extract them. It requires dental surgery. lol.....
Properchopper simply added an aluminum tube in between the heat sink so he could route the water flow in a "U" .
There is an opinion that the V2 wasn't water proof, this is not entirely accurate: the V2 was meant as a water resistant unit. I had one of mine dunked in water for an hour and it is still working today. The problem with that one is that the FETS are housed in a plastic box and then sealed with silicone sealant. How well it stacks up to its "Water Resistant" billing depended on how thoroughly the worker applied the sealant.
My speculation is that with this current design, everything is encased and heat builds up quicker.
Also I wonder the bump on the wire [ cap(s) + Schottky diode(s)] is really an improvement over just a plain extra cap bank.
Again, I am airing this out in the hopes that someone with more knowledge will enlighten us here.

[tlandauer]

Ahhh ok, I'll take a look.

BTW ... any of you guys have any experience with CF cloth that already comes with 3M adhesive like this? >> http://compositeenvisions.com/carbon...poxy-1440.html
Makes me wonder if I should give it a shot for reinforcement... if it works out it would be a non-messy way of going about doing the hull inlay and fixing some of the seams.

This is a stiff panel, not cloth, may be I am not understanding you right, but to the best of my knowledge, this is not what you use for inlay. you need flexible cloth.

[iop65]

next time you buy something this hot from someone else : let the guy give a demonstration before you pay!
like i wrote yesterday : nothing wrong with this setup but it has to be spot on ;no room for errors

[tlandauer]

next time you buy something this hot from someone else : let the guy give a demonstration before you pay!
like i wrote yesterday : nothing wrong with this setup but it has to be spot on ;no room for errors

A test drive so to speak.
You know, I am chicken, I don't think I will ever be able to test drive a Ferrari out of a dealer's lot. lol.........
Then again, as someone mentioned earlier, i don't know many things, but I do know my limitations.

[iop65]

wouldn't be surprised if the motor/magnets have been damaged by this too if it was hanging on the same cooling line

[T.S.Davis]

40-42k rpm is not "saw" territory.....anymore. Sorry. Let me give you some examples. The bj29, the impulse 31 just to mention two....have 1800 and 2000kv motors and the manufacter says it can run up to 6s. So let's do some pretend math here....bj29.....hmmmm... 22.2v x 2000kv = 44,400rpm. "Saw" right? How bout the impulse 31...... 1800kv x 22.2v = 39,960.

That's an irresponsible marketing response to the Spartan. Turns out the Spartan didn't like 6s either.

Guys, consider your source when taking setup advice. You will have to decide who to trust with your money based on your own parameters.

[flraptor07]

Do you guys know where I can get some extra water inlets that can screw into the heat sink of this Seaking 180 v3 ? I think it might be a good idea... to wrap the cooling line back around to the other side of it for better cooling.

OSE and Kintec both have them. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...od=ros-spd-102 This is just one style they have, you might even want to put a 90deg. fitting on it if you could move the cap enough. http://kintecracing.com/Water_Cooling_BQFJ.html Scroll down to the bottom of the page, they have a good selection..

[kfxguy]

That's an irresponsible marketing response to the Spartan. Turns out the Spartan didn't like 6s either.

Guys, consider your source when taking setup advice. You will have to decide who to trust with your money based on your own parameters.

This your response after that long, rambling and semi hostile post above? I'm kind of disappointed. So let's see, you insinuate that people should take advice from someone who's openly admitting to breaking lots of equipment. Sounds like the guy I'd be listening to. Lol

I think your still giving advice based on only 70 amp speedos being available. Like I said, things have come a long way since then. Most of of are running setups today that a couple years ago you would consider just a "saw" setup. I'm running a 1515 2200kv castle motor on 6s in my 26" cat. Runs like this with no issues, day in, day out.




Ps. I'm just giving you a hard time.(you seem to like doing that to me) No need to get upset. :)


Pss. You cannot compare traxxas to proboat. Not even close in quality.

[iridebikes247]

The link shows a carbon panel lol, thats legit gluing carbon fiber veneer into the hull....

Keith's fabric is great, and his prices are too. Inlays are very very easy to do if you take your time and have fresh scissors. Don't use spray adhesive or anything (something I used to do). It gums up and keeps the epoxy from drying.

[rearwheelin]

Do you guys know where I can get some extra water inlets that can screw into the heat sink of this Seaking 180 v3 ? I think it might be a good idea... to wrap the cooling line back around to the other side of it for better cooling.

Did you see how fast they can pop ? That's not going to do any good. The internals don't get rid of there heat fast enough .

[Sean]

I've had two 180v3 blow on me, and hadent run them near
as hard as I run the v2.
.