When you're changing rotation are you reprogramming the esc's or changing wires on your motors so the motors spin forward/reverse? Have you done a bench test to see if they were both "pushing air"? Sorry if it seems like a silly question.
When you're changing rotation are you reprogramming the esc's or changing wires on your motors so the motors spin forward/reverse? Have you done a bench test to see if they were both "pushing air"? Sorry if it seems like a silly question.
If that were the case it wouldn't even get on plane, it would instantly spin around.
In one of his videos it does instantly spin out, just trying to eliminate possibilities. I've never run a twin with one if the props spinning the wrong way, I have no idea how it would act.
Hi Andrew,
I use to use an airtronics servo in my 45" delta force sniper it was so sensitive it would almost always be darting the corners even with the steering turned down to 15%, which is good for 60plus mph but slower than that your heading for shore! I now use HiTec HS-755MG quarter scale metal gear.
Forgot to say, it would make it easier if it comes from HK Europe or any other European site. From out side of Europe it takes forever plus four weeks to clear customs, plus a week trying to pay the additional taxes at the bank. Never again.
All information gratefully received. It was suggested I should go digital with a minimum of 209 oz of torque. Not sure who is correct and what is sufficient.
Hi Andrew,
My airtronics was 300oz of torque, it was just way to sensitive for me , the Hitec servo I mentioned is slow and smooth with lots of power, also use a separate power supply for the steering servo not the power from the esc. Should be able to pic up the Hitec from your local hobby store. save the shipping B.S.
Cheers, Jay.
Hello,
I think your steering rod is to thin. Your boat hooks to the left, so looking at your setup, the rod is flexing and giving you full left rudder.
Put a carbon tube over your steering rod to stiffen it up.
I wish I had something useful to add. I will be very grateful for posting all the setup issues when I finally get mine on the water!! Keep plugging away, it does look good on the water!!
If I may add something here Andrew.
I have to agree with Joel & Mark in posts 42 & 43.
Being a stepped hull the weight needs to move back a bit. I believe the two props are lifting the transom off the water & running it on the front part of the hull in front of the step. With so little rudder in the water to steady it the boat just spins out. I know the props are low lifting props but they are 3 blade & there's two of them. So that all adds up to a fair amount of lift.
Also the strut & tab angles. They must be measured with the straight edge running from on the step to the transom. Not just on the rear part of the hull behind the step. Otherwise you will automatically have negative angles to the waterline even if you have them set parallel to the straight edge. This will also add to lifting the transom off the water.
Try running the straightedge from on the step to the transom & under the struts, & add about 1 degree of positive angle (prop up slightly higher)
Do the same with the trim tabs, but set them level with the straightedge.
If the boat still lifts the transom, runs wet & bow steers, try a little more angle on the struts, or move the weight back a bit more.
If the nose gets too light & wants to blow over, move the weight forward again.
This may all be taken with a grain of salt, because the only stepped hull I've ever set up was the smaller Outer Limits with one drive, But it had the same issues early in its life & these settings fixed it.
One way or another I'm sure you will get it running right. You have to. It's such a beautiful looking boat.
Andrew,
In the picture of the link you posted the label reads, quarter scale, Hitec, HS-755MG that's the one, also use a chrome welding rod (won't rust) for steering rod, your rudder may be a bit short as stated.
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