Higher RPM does increase the likelihood of certain types of failures, there's no denying that. That doesn't limit you to running super low RPMs all the time, but it should be considered when choosing a setup. Some motors don't deal with RPM well, that's just how it is. Centrifugal force is a constant that will not be changed by any means. Some low RPM setups are problematic for different reasons.
I think the main issue with high RPM setups, is what most of you are eluding to. Many RPM ranges can be successfully utilized if done correctly. The guy who just runs a 4s setup on 6s to go faster is the one who looses here. Most people would never believe the ACTUAL current peaks you see on some of these cowboy setups if you get a logger that is sensitive enough to properly log them. I've seen peaks over 1000A on overloaded motors. This happens not from spinning a motor fast, but from overloading it, which coincidentally is easy to do when you run higher RPMs. I can't say how many times I've seen this in FE. The happens with factory RTR parts, but the most notorious aftermarket is 6s/2200kv. I think this is because the combo is used in so many 1/8 scale cars and people are first impressed by this setup before they ever get into boating, not realizing that pushing a 1/8 scale car to 60mph is not a heavy load at all...nothing in comparison to what we see in FE boating. Some people never learn how to properly set up a boat and just default to increasing theoretical RPM to increase speed. Not only does this increase risk of failure, but it really limits how fast someone can go without learning how to set their boat up.
When I see these guys run I wince a little...not because they're running a particular RPM, but because they're running MUCH slower than they should be with a given motor/voltage/prop combo, which is a tell-tale sign of an overloaded system. If boat "A" can run 70mph on 5s/2200kv/x442, and boat "B" runs 70mph on 6s/2200kv/x645, it doesn't take a genious to see that the "B" guy is doing something wrong.
I think the main issue with high RPM setups, is what most of you are eluding to. Many RPM ranges can be successfully utilized if done correctly. The guy who just runs a 4s setup on 6s to go faster is the one who looses here. Most people would never believe the ACTUAL current peaks you see on some of these cowboy setups if you get a logger that is sensitive enough to properly log them. I've seen peaks over 1000A on overloaded motors. This happens not from spinning a motor fast, but from overloading it, which coincidentally is easy to do when you run higher RPMs. I can't say how many times I've seen this in FE. The happens with factory RTR parts, but the most notorious aftermarket is 6s/2200kv. I think this is because the combo is used in so many 1/8 scale cars and people are first impressed by this setup before they ever get into boating, not realizing that pushing a 1/8 scale car to 60mph is not a heavy load at all...nothing in comparison to what we see in FE boating. Some people never learn how to properly set up a boat and just default to increasing theoretical RPM to increase speed. Not only does this increase risk of failure, but it really limits how fast someone can go without learning how to set their boat up.
When I see these guys run I wince a little...not because they're running a particular RPM, but because they're running MUCH slower than they should be with a given motor/voltage/prop combo, which is a tell-tale sign of an overloaded system. If boat "A" can run 70mph on 5s/2200kv/x442, and boat "B" runs 70mph on 6s/2200kv/x645, it doesn't take a genious to see that the "B" guy is doing something wrong.
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