How do you fasten your hardware?

[SJFE]

Paul I like the Euro style strut. Tell me have you run that yet? I am curious about a couple things. Have you ever broken an aluminum screw? Also what setup do you run in that hull? While the strut looks great if put under a load will it flex?
Thanks and sorry for hijacking the thread.

[Eyekandyboats]

post a picture of a tap?
you showed one right there.
I don't tap screws. that just pointless. i don't even think a tap is made to tap screw holes
If you used bolts then tap the hole.

[Doug Smock]

then i tap my holes and screw in screws.... yes screws. That way if my hardware rips off because of a log, turtle, or any of that crap it doesn't rip the transom apart. the screws simply pull out.

This may be where that came from.

Doug

[NativePaul]

Thanks SJFE, that is a construction photo as its the only one I have that shoes my screws in focus, I finished it a couple of weeks ago and she has run but only once so far.


I've broken nearly all my screws, there made of 7075 and are a pain to saw through, so I go a little over half way through with the junior hacksaw then whack it backwards and forwards in the vice with a hammer to break off the last bit when cutting them down to size, not neat but its a little quicker. They are plenty strong enough to hold the hardware on.

She is approximately 36"x14" Powered by a Mega 22/30/3, watercooled CC Phoenix 80 and 6s1p Enerland 4350s, first outing was on an X637, but it wasn't enough she will get an X640 next time out.

The strut and rudder is hung from one bolt so it can flip back if I hit a submerged log or the Loch Ness Monster (we don't have terrapins, alligators or turtles to hit over here).

The strut was made by a friend of mine and fellow FE enthusiast, to my specifications, it is rigid fore and aft and up and down but can flex from side to side, there is not much side loading on it though Just a little load from the attempted prop walk, I try to make my boats as light as possible and designed it with that in mind, if I find it twists I can easily solder a couple of thin strips of the same stainless to each side to stiffen it, whilst still being a lot lighter than using thicker steel from the start.

[SJFE]

Wow Paul that is a hot looking cat!! Your friend does nice work. If it's not to much to ask I'd like a pm with instructions on how to solder stainless. I was un aware it was that east to work with. Please post some video of that cat running.
Thanks
Tom

[JimClark]

I drill holes to through bolt the fasteners. Sometimes use SS and lock nuts and for some things like the motor mount I use nylon fasteners and a nylon lock nut. For the holes after drilling them I seal them with thinned epoxy. The last boat I built has several years of racing on it and the transom is as solid as ever. But maybe it is the way I make the transom in that I use 3 or 4 pieces of 1/32nd ply and laminate them together with epoxy and also make them so the grain alternates with each layer making it even stiffer.

Jim Clark

[Flying Scotsman]

Jim, that is a great transom setup.

Douggie