MHZ Lizard Extreme---motor, hardware, etc.,suggestions

[tlandauer]

I am looking at drive hardwares, I would love to have some input:
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...os-stinger-str
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...d=ros-spdr-013
Is the rudder too long? I have bought a DF 45 Sniper a year ago and its rudder is only this long. Also how far back should the rudder bracket go? I thought for this stinger i should go for the 4" version.
Trim tabs: Do i need double trim tabs or one pair is enough? I don't plan to race this hull, would one pair be enough or as I remember the inner and outter ones have separate purposes?
I must admit that I don't like the current version of the turn fins, the knife shape doesn't look good on this hull, prefer straight shaped ones, but don't see around. Maybe I am just being silly...
Thanks again for your time

[properchopper]

The 3/16" stinger is fine ; I use it on just about all my boats. The rudder is fine also. Remember that the drive dog should line up with the front of the rudder blade so the 4" extended rudder will be just about right. Trimming the rudder is normal to get the right length ; once it's installed you can measure it's depth. Single split tabs or dual tabs will work; just get tuned differently.

I am looking at drive hardwares, I would love to have some input:
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...os-stinger-str
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...d=ros-spdr-013
Is the rudder too long? I have bought a DF 45 Sniper a year ago and its rudder is only this long. Also how far back should the rudder bracket go? I thought for this stinger i should go for the 4" version.
Trim tabs: Do i need double trim tabs or one pair is enough? I don't plan to race this hull, would one pair be enough or as I remember the inner and outter ones have separate purposes?
I must admit that I don't like the current version of the turn fins, the knife shape doesn't look good on this hull, prefer straight shaped ones, but don't see around. Maybe I am just being silly...
Thanks again for your time

[tlandauer]

Thanks!

[JIM MARCUM]

Mine is completely filled out and tested/verified . How's yours doing ?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]78267[/ATTACH]

If I had a brain, I'd be in full panic mode, Tony.i.e.; status quo. JIM

[tlandauer]

With the Nats coming I really don't want to bother anyone, also I am waiting for a bunch of hardware to arrive. But I can't help myself so here is a question.
Since I have a Peter Z mount and a regular nose mount, been trying to figure out motor placement. One unpleasent surprise was that with the commom nose mount (53 mm spacing), the rear floor is not flat! the mount is like a rocking horse, however if i use the P Z mount with 4" spaced rails, the floor is ok at that area. I checked the outside ridepad area there is no hook, I can only assume it is an inside issue since there are two chine rails and the epoxy is thicker along those lines.
I know rear mounting is favored by many of you, but I can't get COG right unless the motor is at the VERY rear which makes routine maintenance hard. The other option is to place the motor ahead of the COG and let the batteries to weight down and balance the COG in the rear.
Thanks!

[JIM MARCUM]

Do you have a web link, or pics to take a look at your hull? Need spec info to help you.

As to CG, it's a lot easier to move the LIPOs around to adjust your CG, rather than putting the motor so far aft that it's a pain to work on.

JIM

[tlandauer]

Thanks, will get some pictures, I know you guys are getting ready, have fun !

[tlandauer]

Here is the link:http://mhzusa.com/Lizard-Xtreme-m-1717-N.htm and some question/ideas.DSCN2136_1476.jpgDSCN2138_1478.jpg

[tlandauer]

I can't get this right, sorry!
DSCN2137_1477.jpg As you can see, the floor is not flat where i placed the smaller mount. With the P Z mount, no such problem. The only drawback with the bigger mount is so much space is taken. But the wider foot print is rock solid. BTW, I plan to glass the floor.
Thanks for taking your time to look.

[ozzie-crawl]

Looking at your question it looks like you dont have the hardware yet ?
If you dont have the hardware on the hull i would wait till it is before doing cog. It mite seem fairly light but should make enough difference to allow the motor to go in the rear and still allow resonable access to the coupler etc.

[tlandauer]

That's what I thought, you know, I really should be more patient, I was just sitting aroung today because my work was canceled, as I said originallty I won't be able to start until last week of June.

[JIM MARCUM]

I can't get this right, sorry!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]78761[/ATTACH] As you can see, the floor is not flat where i placed the smaller mount. With the P Z mount, no such problem. The only drawback with the bigger mount is so much space is taken. But the wider foot print is rock solid. BTW, I plan to glass the floor.
Thanks for taking your time to look.

Looks like you have plenty of room in there to use the larger mount. Plenty of room for the LIPOs. I'm a cat guy, so I can't help you with the right CG for this boat. JIM

[tlandauer]

Thanks anyway, Jim, appreciate your spending the time.
BTW, hope I have time to drop by Legg lake and see you guys in action!
Tim

[ozzie-crawl]

Here is a couple pics of my old mono.Different hull but same size.
Room to tighten/loosen coupler was not huge but enough for my big hands. Battery up against motor gave me 28%. From memory i ran around 30-31%.

[tlandauer]

Thanks! All these pictures and advices/suggestions are greatly appreciated!