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  • paultbg
    Senior Member
    • Mar 2012
    • 103

    #106
    Hello Viper,
    It is the standard lens with the small adhesive mount (the plane one).
    If you do have a bit of photography knowledge (exposure,lighting,etc),the rest is only in post processing.
    You can actually recover a lot in post : over/ under exposure, recover highlights (eq:the sky) , add light into shadow areas, sharpen,...
    I am using Adobe premiere because I am used with the Adobe Suite but I bet that any of the most important programs are doing the same.
    Regards

    Comment

    • viper1
      Senior Member
      • Jun 2012
      • 218

      #107
      Originally posted by paultbg
      Hello Viper,
      It is the standard lens with the small adhesive mount (the plane one).
      If you do have a bit of photography knowledge (exposure,lighting,etc),the rest is only in post processing.
      You can actually recover a lot in post : over/ under exposure, recover highlights (eq:the sky) , add light into shadow areas, sharpen,...
      I am using Adobe premiere because I am used with the Adobe Suite but I bet that any of the most important programs are doing the same.
      Regards
      HI paul,

      Sony Vegas 11 on this side.

      Well I'm actually quite happy with the quality of the gopro video as it is, the only thing I hated was the distortion -or better: 'fisheye' effect- from the original lens. I changed to the sunex lens (after I finally got my hands on one as they are very popular among gopro users and always out of stock) and I never looked back.
      I have to say that in your vid it's not that obvious, as you filming from a relatively fixed position in vertical.
      In an RC airplane where you have more pitch movement, it was annoying to see the horizon bend up, then down every time.
      Also under water the picture is so much better.
      Wisdom is knowing how little we know

      Comment

      • Emdev2
        Member
        • Aug 2012
        • 33

        #108
        Just bought a Genesis with a dual setup and FC hardware. Looking for the ultimate motors (leopard), esc's, and props setup for the boat. Looking for 60 mph+. I have 2 3s battery setup to start off with but looking to upgrade later to 4s or maybe 5s depending in input I get from the Genesis experts. Any input would be welcome!

        Comment

        • Bone
          Junior Member
          • May 2012
          • 18

          #109
          Being new to the Electric Boating scene, it's been a steep learning curve for me & my poor suffering Genesis. However each time I take the beast to the river I learn a bit more. Have finally got my Genesis running fast AND reliable - now achieving consistent speed runs of 105 km/hr or 65.2 mph :-) Thought I would share my setup so that others new to the scene or to the Genesis can benefit.

          Using Leopard 4074 2150kv with Seaking 180 amp esc powered by Zippy 5000 ma 45C Lipos in 5S2P configuration. Swapped the standard 4mm flex drive for the 3/16 upgrade with an Octura 742 3 blade prop sharpened & balanced. ESC timing is set to 11.25 degrees.

          Have also hit upon the "sweet spot" for my bog standard 4S 32" Pursuit - consistently reaching 89 km/hr or 55.3 mph. Will post its specs in the Pursuit thread.
          Last edited by Bone; 08-04-2012, 09:46 AM. Reason: typos & minor housekeeping

          Comment

          • Maciek74
            Member
            • Jun 2012
            • 48

            #110
            i just replaced stock tube with brass one 1/4 for .187 cable without liner, tube looks quite soft, shouldnt it be installed inside bigger one? any tips regarding lubrication etc?

            Comment

            • viper1
              Senior Member
              • Jun 2012
              • 218

              #111
              Christmas came early...

              FIIInaaAaly !.... my genesis came in today. So many things to do now, so little time.

              Looks like the inside has been changed though, compared to any photo's I have seen thusfar.
              The motor mount is different, integrated via a long rail with the servo mount and ESC mount.
              More flexible to different motor sizes as it seems. But harder to "rip" out if you want to use another mount.
              The glass 'fillet' is a bit dry around the mount, I might grind it away and lay some C.F. rovings alongside
              Also the cooling jacket is longer than on the HK website.

              Any thoughts?



              steun2.jpg steun1.jpg

              Overall the hull is beefier than I expected, the transom is hard to reach on the inside, (planning some work there) thought it would be easier to reach.
              Wisdom is knowing how little we know

              Comment

              • Bone
                Junior Member
                • May 2012
                • 18

                #112
                Hi Viper1 - I bought mine from the Hobby King Australian Warehouse in April this year & the internal layout is identical to what I see in your photos. So I guess we both have the changed (updated?) version. I have since re-engineered mine to the 3/16" flex drive & Leopard 4074 motor & matching cooler. Those items fit with no dramas at all

                Comment

                • viper1
                  Senior Member
                  • Jun 2012
                  • 218

                  #113
                  Hi Bone,

                  Yeah, shaft & many acc. on the way as well.
                  But because the jacket is longer, It won't fit the (upgrade ?) motor I ordered with it http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...90mm_EDF_.html

                  That motor is shorter.
                  Well, It does fit, but covers the can exactly, no room for the front support clamp
                  I ordered another cooling jacket 45mm long.

                  Inside smells like polyester, might give problems with using epoxy, did anyone use epoxy in the hull yet?
                  Wisdom is knowing how little we know

                  Comment

                  • paultbg
                    Senior Member
                    • Mar 2012
                    • 103

                    #114
                    @viper-why do you think that particular motor is an upgrade?
                    generally is considered an upgrade a bigger motor with lower rpms so you can increase the size of the prop,
                    like leopard 40 series or turnigy 500 :http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...er_1600KV.html if you really want an outrunner
                    the smell in the boat is actually the smell of epoxy used in the building process.

                    Comment

                    • Maciek74
                      Member
                      • Jun 2012
                      • 48

                      #115
                      iam finnishing rebuilding my Genesis under 4082 and .187 brass shaft without teflon, 1/4 tube is a bit too small for strut, should i ignore it and just put some shrink tube on connection or connect it somehow?

                      here are couple fotos for experts, to find my mistakes... :)
                      DSC_8009.jpgDSC_8011.jpgDSC_8012.jpgDSC_8013.jpgDSC_8016.jpg

                      Comment

                      • tlandauer
                        Fast Electric Addict!
                        • Apr 2011
                        • 5666

                        #116
                        Originally posted by Bone
                        Hi Viper1 - I bought mine from the Hobby King Australian Warehouse in April this year & the internal layout is identical to what I see in your photos. So I guess we both have the changed (updated?) version. I have since re-engineered mine to the 3/16" flex drive & Leopard 4074 motor & matching cooler. Those items fit with no dramas at all
                        Did you have to replace the stock stuffing tube inorder to fit the 3/16" flex cable? Is the stock stuffing tube the very thin/cheap Chinese brass tube?
                        Thank you .
                        Too many boats, not enough time...

                        Comment

                        • Maciek74
                          Member
                          • Jun 2012
                          • 48

                          #117
                          stock tube is stainless 5mm inside 6mm outside so i dont think 3/16 will fit even with special thick teflon

                          Comment

                          • Bone
                            Junior Member
                            • May 2012
                            • 18

                            #118
                            Originally posted by tlandauer
                            Did you have to replace the stock stuffing tube inorder to fit the 3/16" flex cable? Is the stock stuffing tube the very thin/cheap Chinese brass tube?
                            Thank you .
                            The 3/16 flex cable will fit inside the originally installed stainless steel tube PROVIDING you remove the plastic / teflon liner - but then you have a slightly looser fitting arrangement with metal on metal wear & I suspect much harder to keep the grease staying in the tube. But from what I read on these forums, some folk have done that & had success. For me though, I opted to replace the tube, the liner & the shaft so that the parts matched "hand in glove" so to speak.

                            Living in Australia, I purchased my flex upgrade kit from an Australian store http://shop.rcboatbitz.com.au/index....roducts_id=753

                            I was initially concerned about getting the correct bend in the replacement brass tube & not kinking it. By using my portable gas camping stove to heat the tube & wearing thick leather gloves, getting the correct bend was easy (I placed the original tube side by side for comparison as I gently bent the new one). Use SLOW setting epoxy to secure the new tube in the boat. You will need to replace the strut to accept the 3/16 shaft or replace the 4mm bearings in the existing strut with the 3/16 ones. It's a worthwhile upgrade that makes the drive line more robust & eliminates the need to put the brass sleeve in the prop mounting hole to reduces its diameter (which can be a nuisance if you want to swap props between boats with different diameter drive shafts ie: 4 mm & 3/16).
                            Last edited by Bone; 08-07-2012, 10:18 PM.

                            Comment

                            • tlandauer
                              Fast Electric Addict!
                              • Apr 2011
                              • 5666

                              #119
                              @ Bone,Thank you very much for this info. and the link.
                              @ Maciek74, thanks too !
                              Thinking of another cat, just getting some ideas first.
                              Too many boats, not enough time...

                              Comment

                              • tlandauer
                                Fast Electric Addict!
                                • Apr 2011
                                • 5666

                                #120
                                Originally posted by Maciek74
                                iam finnishing rebuilding my Genesis under 4082 and .187 brass shaft without teflon, 1/4 tube is a bit too small for strut, should i ignore it and just put some shrink tube on connection or connect it somehow?

                                here are couple fotos for experts, to find my mistakes... :)
                                [ATTACH=CONFIG]82040[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]82041[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]82042[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]82043[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]82044[/ATTACH]
                                Looks good, i am no expert, but I rebuilt my PB Blackjack 26 with a Genisis 3/16 strut , had the same issue, shrink tube took care of it .
                                Too many boats, not enough time...

                                Comment

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