Genisis...

[stadiumyamaha]

If I had to guess running at over 40k rpm with a small can motor pushing a 445 prop, you over cooked it. I bet the amp draw was though the roof. IMO.

[martin]

Yep to high rpm to big prop & to low c rating.

[LOVE6S]

Never run 25c and don't maiden run a 445 prop, should of started with a 440, did you run a bec?

[Maciek74]

Ok, i fried ESC

DSC_6986.jpg

motor works, but on 35A esc i could only give it small kick to know this, iam not sure if after this overheating it will work ok, ordered another ESC from HK will see after it arives.

[paultbg]

@Maciek74
you really do not want to listen ....
the motor is "shaking" on the small esc because it not receiving all phases;one of the connectors is melted and the motor does not receive full power;
there is no such thing as too small esc and the motor just kick;
also probably the same problem is on t180 side;even in your picture, the bullet connector in the front looks melted judging by it's strange angled position.
just solder again those connectors and you are good to go...

[viper1]

Never run 25c and don't maiden run a 445 prop, should of started with a 440, did you run a bec?

According to his post, he runs "2x6s 4900 25c," Doesn't that mean that he's virtually running 50c? (asuming he connected parrallel )

Edit: What I mean is the capacity doubles as well so the actual c rating will be the same, but his max discharge rate doubles...

Thats why I wrote: virtually

[Maciek74]

Paul, i soldered it again, and it didnt work as i thought, it only give power to transmiter, beeper and engine doesnt work, engine shaked on other ESC (35A) i also burned this small one after trying this motor...
look on picture above, i posted it to show u what i melted, there are 6 squares on upper edge (banks or something) 1 and 6 are puffed and looks melted, anyways they arent protected from overheating like those below i think its worth considering to protect them too cause obviously they needed this...

Love, yes i run 2x6s parallel so i think it gives me 50 c and continuous amps around 240, is it too high?

anyways should i order bigger motor like 4082? or bigger?

Maciek

[iamandrew]

youd need more that 8 gauge wire to do over 150 Amps, otherwise its just going to burn through your boat hull

[viper1]

Paul, i soldered it again, and it didnt work as i thought, it only give power to transmiter, beeper and engine doesnt work, engine shaked on other ESC (35A) i also burned this small one after trying this motor...
look on picture above, i posted it to show u what i melted, there are 6 squares on upper edge (banks or something) 1 and 6 are puffed and looks melted, anyways they arent protected from overheating like those below i think its worth considering to protect them too cause obviously they needed this...

Love, yes i run 2x6s parallel so i think it gives me 50 c and continuous amps around 240, is it too high?

anyways should i order bigger motor like 4082? or bigger?

Maciek

Maciek, when not connected, can you turn over this motor by hand?

[Maciek74]

Viper, yes but not as easy as before, i can feel some resistance but not this caused by magnets... unfortunately iam the only FE boater in my city so i have to wait for new ESC to check it undrer power.

iam thinking now bout 4082 motor, which KV should i get for 6s and x445 prop? or maybe even x447 cause i already have one :)

[viper1]

Don't !

Viper, yes but not as easy as before, i can feel some resistance but not this caused by magnets... unfortunately iam the only FE boater in my city so i have to wait for new ESC to check it undrer power.

iam thinking now bout 4082 motor, which KV should i get for 6s and x445 prop? or maybe even x447 cause i already have one :)

I leave the setup questions for the boat experts,...

But I do know a tiny bit about motors; NEVER EVER run inrunners on full RPM without a load, the magnets will shatter.
I use to work for a large RC distributor doing warranty/repairs. When the first Brushless motors became available (and they were only inrunners back then), we had so many returned, people couldn't wait to spin up their first brushless motor like they were used to do with brushed motors. Magnets simply disintegrated due to the higher RPM.

Are you sure these are ok? Already blew up 2 esc's.., sometimes it is just a tiny hair crack and hard to spot, because the magnets are strong and stay together on shaft. I would think twice before "checking it under power"

[paultbg]

Did you notice the small very noticable vertical spray separate from the rearward rooster tail? That is from water hitting and being directed upward from that small 1/8th inch gap between the transom mounting bracket and the forward edge of the strut. Two things about that. First it causes a small amount of lost speed. Important? That depends on how important maximum speed is to you. Second, in my case it also helped funnel water into my hull via the mounting bolts which over time wallowed a little bit as the strut and strut bracket rocked on the rounded surface of the transom (I posted this situation in a different post). Anyway, dab a little RTV (silicon rubber sealant) around all edges of the bracket and fill the hole forward of the strut and shoot the video again.
Dave

Hello all,
I did what Dave explained and indeed the separate spray of water vanished,thanks for the tip Dave
Below you can see the new video with a touch of top gear post processing... :-)

[viper1]

Great Video Paul, I realize I don't use my GoPro enough.
Do you still have the standard lens or did you change to the sunex?
Are you using the suction-cup mount or the smaller adhesive mount?

[paultbg]

i had to update the video, was stuck somehow...
it is working now.

[viper1]

Previous post edited, see questions added....