Hobbyking SS Boat Series 200A ESC

[carlcisneros]

MAtt;
you have to make sure that the FET's on the top are VERY falt so the cooling plate can make good contact with them for cooling.

Check them and if need be, use a fine file or fine paper with a flat board and file/sand the tops of the FET's carefully until they are all flush, smooth and you can tell the cooling plate touches each of the FET's for proper cooling.

It takes some time and patience, but I am sure you can do it.

and make sure everything is nice and clean when you get done.

Thanks

[Rumdog]

Sanding, or filing FET's is not a good idea. They are made to be a certain size for a reason. If they aren't mounted to the esc perfectly flat, obviously some will be raised, and some lower. I'd suggest using the thermal type mat that comes with a lot of these chinese esc's between the cooler and FET's.

[lectriglide]

Rummy, I agree about sanding into the FETS. But you can and should sand the conformal coating? that apparently gets on them when they "water proof" the esc. Look at this pic and you can see how much of it is on the FETS. It has to impede the heat transfer.

[Rumdog]

I'd use an exacto knife to carefully remove the conformal coating from them.

[raypa]

Ok I try mine today and works just fine temps just warm and I use it at 6s 132amps checked with wattmeter.

[tiqueman]

I used my 2nd one for the first time yesterday in a 32" mono, 4082 Leopard 2200KV and a X640 prop. I programmed it Thursday night and ran it yesterday. I got to the waters edge and hit the throttle twice to make sure all was in check and the esc blew up. Fire out of my brand new never in the water hull. Seems the issue could have been (not a esc expert) but the center wire of the 3 motor leads was against the cooling plate. Theres a divit burned into the plate where it apparently was arcing and the solder connection for that wire is all black. Im assuming this caused a short? Guess from now on I will be tearing these things apart and checking a bunch of things before I run one again. Only thing that bothers me is the awful stinch in my brand new hull. For the price of the esc's, I really dont care... although, I wish it woulda blown for a better reason, like me pushing its limits or something....

[LiPo Power]

That is my concern for real. I file the edge of the cooling plate that is close to the soldering and also file the soldering down a little so the surface if it is lower than top of fets.
Looks like short but it may also be the fet.
That one in the middle may be gone!
Is your ESC still arming and working but very week?

I used my 2nd one for the first time yesterday in a 32" mono, 4082 Leopard 2200KV and a X640 prop. I programmed it Thursday night and ran it yesterday. I got to the waters edge and hit the throttle twice to make sure all was in check and the esc blew up. Fire out of my brand new never in the water hull. Seems the issue could have been (not a esc expert) but the center wire of the 3 motor leads was against the cooling plate. Theres a divit burned into the plate where it apparently was arcing and the solder connection for that wire is all black. Im assuming this caused a short? Guess from now on I will be tearing these things apart and checking a bunch of things before I run one again. Only thing that bothers me is the awful stinch in my brand new hull. For the price of the esc's, I really dont care... although, I wish it woulda blown for a better reason, like me pushing its limits or something....

[LiPo Power]

I wish SUPO has cooling plates between fet boards installed!
Or why not designing longer single board with fets and have cooling plate sitting on them all???

[Mel279]

I just use a thermal paste in between the cooling plate and fets

[tiqueman]

That is my concern for real. I file the edge of the cooling plate that is close to the soldering and also file the soldering down a little so the surface if it is lower than top of fets.
Looks like short but it may also be the fet.
That one in the middle may be gone!
Is your ESC still arming and working but very week?

It went down like this, I tapped the throttle twice while holding the boat, just before launching it, the first burst seemed fine, the second let out a sound as if a golf ball hit the boat. I pulled the throttle once more and the prop spun at about 1/4 throttle and then slowly wound down to nothing, then another sizzle like pop. I immediately pulled the hatch and unplugged and removed the batts. I have not plugged into it since.

[LiPo Power]

Same here but my concern is cooling the fets on the second and third board. Top one is fine but the rest of them are simply not beeing cooled...
aquastar 120 amp esc has them installed in between the fet plates, good esc...

I just use a thermal paste in between the cooling plate and fets

[Matt_1234]

cooling problems

Well i have 2 options of cooling my esc and i need help in choosing the best one so it doesnt short like tiqueman's esc did. here are some pics. As you can see the stock cooling plate is very close to the solder where it could slide up and may short. but with the red cooling plate. it is a bit smaller so if i turn it around so the cooling plugs are where the 2 round things are (forget what they are called lol) it has a fair bit of room between the solder joints and the plate itself. and the red one still manages to touch all the frets!! please let me know which one you guys think would be the best to cool my esc. i am leaning towards the red one atm. thanks alot
matt

[LiPo Power]

It looks like the red one is nicely covering the fets without getting very close to soldering of cables. I would go with the red one....

[Matt_1234]

yeah thats what i wanted to use so i will put that on this arv and tape the esc back up.
matt

[LiPo Power]

Good thing you got it out....

i had the same problem but mine is the 125amp. it had a bit of metal swarf from the brass inside it. heres a pic. also do i have to put the thermal pad back on cause i took it off and threw it in the bin and put the plate straight on top of the frets?? Do i need that pad?? thanks
matt