You can put a small piece of electrical tape of those solder joints for extra insulation... Or you can dab some epoxy over them just to make sure.
Hobbyking SS Boat Series 200A ESC
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Stiletto tunnel,EPV135 (53") twin cat, CT06"Spirit of Qatar", FD 47" mono, Twin Mini Cat 23.5"Comment
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Attached FilesDrammen rock CityComment
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test fit. But the heat shrink was to brittle, so I have to get a softer one.Drammen rock CityComment
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by the looks of it, you used a too long of a piece. cut it so that it covers only 1/2 the length of the capacitors and maybe about 1/4 inch beyond the cooling plate on the motor side.
What heating method are you using to shrink it?
If you are using a hair dryer (some people do) it looks too cold of a shrink heat.
If you know anyone that flys RC, ask to borrow their covering gun and use that. I use it and it works fantastic. very quick to shrink the heat shrink.
I use the same basic heat shrink and have not had a problem with it at all.
jmo guy.
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Any programming info? -I have 2 of the 200A versions.
I tried the himodel manual and hk ss 200a air esc manual and both are wrong.
-I cant get the timing to more then 15 deg.(3 long beebs)
-there is some drag brake even if the brake settings are "no brake"
-cutoff has no effect, can use 3s even if the cutt off is at 6s
because the beebs wont line up with the manuals I dont know what have I programmed into these...
I have listened these beeps so long that my head hurts
oh, and my esc“s needed blocksanding on the fetts and a new cooling plates(etti) , the included plates were crooked beond anything blocksanding could cure and thecooling plate had contact with motor wire solder(well 1 was crooked but I switched both)
-PateComment
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Ok where can I buy thermal paste, and any of the other options used here? Seems there are so many options for this I am confused! If there is a thermal epoxy that would be my preference, but hey I have 2 of these cheapos in route although not HK but another ebay seller, and want to fix upon arrival.GREAT thread by the way.
Just a thought, but if the water outlets are an issue why not plug the holes already there with a set screw and some red locktite, place the plate in a drill press vice, and re drill into the plate from the side, tap and re install the water outlet 90* from where it was??
That should not be that hard.Comment
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Again when these arrive, my plan is to remove the plate, sand the cooling plate perfectly flat, plug the existing water outlets with set screws and locktite, drill completely through through the plate one end to the other with 2 new locations, flush out any cuttings, tap all 4 holes, and use 4 cooling nipples. I am sure my drill path will cross with the old ones but that will actually allow water to be better dispersed because the water will route itself into the old paths too. I want water coming and going using 4 outlets not 2.
Do the thermal paste, epoxy, whatever is best and re install the plate with shrink tubing. If there is a chance the plate will touch the power wires, well why not remove material on that edge until it clears via a belt sander?? If you plug the holes on that edge no big deal with removal of material.
Man did I say a bunch of stuff!! Probably confused everyone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Maybe it makes sense to some of you.
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