What do some other seasoned boaters think in this regard as I was thinking of setting up my Insane as I described, as I am a hydro newbie.
Douggie
Douggie, if Mark's boat handled just fine in the sixties with a single 4S, the P-Spec setup should have no problems with the same. This boat is STABLE !! I should know how mine does tomorrow when I return the 2S packs to Jan & run the spec setup on 4S.
2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
'11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /Mono
Tony and all, my question is what is better for a hydro not a tunnel hull setup 1 battery in the centre or 2 batteries positioned towards the sponsons?? again a newbie hydro question.
Tony and all, my question is what is better for a hydro not a tunnel hull setup 1 battery in the centre or 2 batteries positioned towards the sponsons?? again a newbie hydro question.
Douggie
Douggie, Mark ran his INSANE HYDRO with one battery in the center with no issues. I will do the same. Either way, this boat is so stable that it shouldn't matter. Also, think about this : too much weight in the sponsons prevents some outside sponson lift in turns which could be beneficial.
2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
'11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /Mono
You probably know that moving the battery has nothing to do with changing the roll center - that requires geometry changes. But keeping the CG lower may be helpful on some boats, however on others it either doesn't matter or it can be counter-productive. I discovered this on cat hulls - most I worked with didn't care where the cells went, a few handled markedly better when the cells were on top of the tunnel. Lap times told the story. We are not talking about large changes in the vertical CG here.
Knowing what works for a particular hull requires experimentation, not some rule of thumb or "common sense". That requires a little work - which is part of the fun of the hobby.
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I've struggled with battery placement myself. One thing I can say is that batteries spread out result in sluggish roll response. This can be good, but can also be bad. When I tried spreading the batteries, it was more difficult to start the roll (lift the sponsons) in the first place, but it was also very difficult to recover (slow to respond) from a sponson lift. Think of a long stick with weights on each end that is rotating. It's more difficult to switch rotation direction the further the weights are out. Put them at the center, and there is not much difference with or without the weights. I think this is the reason that tight rope walkers use a very long stick (slow to respond).
Batteries in the center: fast sponson dance (quick roll response)
Batteries spread out: slow sponson dance (slow roll response)
Which one is better? I don't know. It seems to be a "balance act". ha ha.
My $0.02 on batteries... I prefer to keep the weight as low, and as close to the centerline of the hull as possible. In MY OPINION, the further out from center you put the weight, the harder it is for the controll surfaces to control it. Control surfaces would include the planing portions of the hull itself.
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
... By the way... Tony... I just got off the phone with Jeff... After appologizing several times for calling his boat bad names (these threads don't relay the light-heartedness I was trying to portray...) ... he agreed to sell me one! I'm in the queue for hull and hardware! Thanks for the contact info! Need to give Greg someone to race with up here.
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
.I just got off the phone with Jeff... After appologizing several times for calling his boat bad names (these threads don't relay the light-heartedness I was trying to portray...) ... he agreed to sell me one! .
hah! Funny stuff. "so YOU'RE the guy that was bad mouthing my boats appearance!?"
hah! Funny stuff. "so YOU'RE the guy that was bad mouthing my boats appearance!?"
I know... I was actually just joking around... I guess I forgot to mention that I LIKE UGLY... I use the term affectionately. Started using it when I designed and built my own FE Sport Hydro... It was "ugly" too... and I still have it and love it!
... By the way... Tony... I just got off the phone with Jeff... After appologizing several times for calling his boat bad names (these threads don't relay the light-heartedness I was trying to portray...) ... he agreed to sell me one! I'm in the queue for hull and hardware! Thanks for the contact info! Need to give Greg someone to race with up here.
Darin, if you get yours before I do, I will be royaly pissed off, as that will show favouritism towards the home crowd . It is a very intersting looking hull that I will power with UL-1 components and a neu 1415 1Y and a Turnigy 180 amp marine ESC. prop is going to come from egneg (Chuck)
Just got back from the lake; glad you got ahold of Jeff. Seems like many of the FE Royalty are placing orders ; can't wait to see what you guys do with the boat ; should be able to really unleash its potential .
For those of you who have been musing about battery placement theory/practice :
I just ran the Spec setup with a single 4S 5000 Turnigy 30C. Was so fast and smooth/steady [WFO in the turns] that it made a so-so driver like me look like a pro. 'Nuff said !!
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