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  • obrien
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Nov 2007
    • 1264

    #31
    you may need to make the radio box taller so that you can get the servo arms to the motor, but I am not really sure how it will all line up. If you can get a good deal on a complete lower, I would just do that rather than try to figure out how to make this lower work with no skeg. Since the outboard is running on the surface, you will want that skeg to make the boat turn.

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    • rchippie
      Senior Member
      • Jan 2010
      • 567

      #32
      Originally posted by obrien
      you may need to make the radio box taller so that you can get the servo arms to the motor, but I am not really sure how it will all line up. If you can get a good deal on a complete lower, I would just do that rather than try to figure out how to make this lower work with no skeg. Since the outboard is running on the surface, you will want that skeg to make the boat turn.
      I was thinking about putting the lipo's up FR. Then i could make a seperete little box for the servo & esc . That would sit higher than the the other box at the back. I also might have a converted lower unit lined up .

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      • FloatDaBoat
        Bare Bones Fabricator
        • Sep 2009
        • 368

        #33
        If you decide to convert what you have, this may be of assistance:

        I converted a K&B 3.5 leg to electric by using the pre-existing threaded engine mounting holes. On this lower unit they are 4-40 sized. I cut 4 standoffs from stainless tubing to achieve the necessary clearance for the flex shaft/motor coupler. My motor mount plate is brass, as that was what I had on hand (a lot heavier than aluminum). I used inch & a half 4-40 socket head cap screws to attach the motor mount plate to the leg, with stainless flat washers on both ends of the standoffs. I inserted a ball bearing into the leg where the original engine cable exited to support the new (longer) flex cable. I fabricated my own coupler from aluminum rod with nested brass tubing inserted in the center to make it more robust. The set screws are 3 mm. I used an automotive nylon panel fastener to plug the engine exhaust hole. I didn’t alter the lower unit during this process; I’ll be able to reinstall the nitro engine in the future (if I chose to do so) - - no problems.
        Attached Files

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        • rchippie
          Senior Member
          • Jan 2010
          • 567

          #34
          I was working on the hull when i noticed that the seem on the left side of the boat, has a crack about 3/4 of the length of the hull. It is real hard to get to it from the inside. Can i just mix up some fiberglass resin & pour it in the left sponson & let it harden up, or does it really need fiberglass ?. Or should i maybe look into another hull ?.

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          • Darin Jordan
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • Apr 2007
            • 8335

            #35
            Here are those pics of the offset skag that I mentioned previously. Shouldn't be tough to do and I hear it works just fine. Might even provide an advantage in an oval situation....
            Attached Files
            Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
            "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

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            • rchippie
              Senior Member
              • Jan 2010
              • 567

              #36
              Originally posted by Darin Jordan
              Here are those pics of the offset skag that I mentioned previously. Shouldn't be tough to do and I hear it works just fine. Might even provide an advantage in an oval situation....
              Thank you but i found a converted 7.5 lower unit for under $50 bucks. But while i was working on the boat tonight i noticed the seem on the left side is craked about 3/4 the lentgh of the boat. It's real hard to get at from the inside to fix it. so know im not sure if im going to keep the hull . since it's a old boat the fiberglass is probably week & may not be worth fixing.

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