6 year old thread.
is there a spray foam that i can use for rc boats ?
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He seems to hate foam...check out the other 2 year old thread,Grand River Marine Modellers
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Foam is the work of Satan!
Well, I have on occasion seen problems with some types of foam so he does have a point. But his suggestion to not use any floatation demonstrates rather limited experience with racing boats no matter how long he's run "R/C boats".
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No offense intended, but you clearly have little to zero experience racing FE boats. I'm glad that you have never lost a boat, but sadly many current hulls will NOT trap enough air to keep an FE boat off the bottom. Just last year I watched a $1500 mono sink bow-up - without any floatation. Extra floatation would have prevented the loss of the model. An experienced FE boater would know this simple fact...full scale boats have relatively little to do with FEs.
I wonder, since the USCG requires positive floatation in all small craft under 20' - how does your 'boat shop' meet the regulations, with wood? Kapok? Ping pong balls? (Yes I know the latter have been used in vintage offshore racers, but really.). Seriously, I am curious.
{Be reasonable, my Ignore list hasn't had an addition for over a year...}
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So I must ask. Say your cruising down the lake. You flip the boat. It hits the water just right. It rips the bow open in the front. Water rushes in. What now? Your air isn't there anymore. I speak from experience too. I ripped one open just like I described and had I not had floatation in it, it would be gone.32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) wasComment
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years ago I was working on a boat for RC and bought some 2 part foam, if I remember correctly sold by Prather. I made several batches to fill up the bow of the boat being mindful of the expansion properties.
Don't know if they even offer it anymore or even if Prather is still in business.Comment
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This is an old thread. I'm surprised it's been this long since it was argued again. In my head we debate it about once a year.
I've done noodles, pipe insulation, great stuff, two part, wall insulation, bead board, and no flotation. Even did a packaging air bag thing.
My no flotation boat is at the bottom of Shelby pond.
My great stuff boats went in the garbage. That stuff is stupid.
Some of my Pursuits came with white bead board looking foam. Left it in there.
The two part foam is okay if you're smart about it. It expands and contracts so bad even after you think it's cured it will actually deform a boat. Like next season even. Sits out in the sun one day and then it cools and the deck of you're boat looks like it was beat with a bag of nickles. I only use it structurally where it isn't confined. Like in the framing of a sponson where I don't reach the top of the cavity.
Wall insulation works better than anything but you have to build around it. Done right that's structure too.
Pool noodles or pipe insulation is the easiest. A total hull breach where all the noodles fall out is pretty rare. Plus you can adhere any kind of foam with gorilla glue.Noisy personComment
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I wedge in the pool noodles in, under deck and in open areas. Then I use old servo rods and pin together. For the hatches I use 1/8 sheets of fun foam with adhesive on back just cut to fit and stick.
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I remember many years ago in London....big mono "T-Boned" another..mono that got "T-Boned" split in half...pool noodles made it safely to shore.Grand River Marine Modellers
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Anyway, this topic is about as useless as another thread on what are the best LiPos....Grand River Marine Modellers
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