Brushless motor winding class

[donhuff]

Now we get to go back to the very first slot where we started and go down giving it it's second pass. Finish the three turns and exit out the top.
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Notice how the wire is the same length that it was when we used it to do the 2 different ways of doing the delta wind. # turns equals the same length of wire no matter how you do it!

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Top and bottom shots of the first set of coils.


Now let's grab the blue wire and do the same thing. It looks different from the delta winds because of the skipped slots at the start. But after you get away from the start, it begins to look about the same. Carry the blue wire all the way round and hopefully, you end up in the right slot. If it ever seems off and say the slot that you want isn't open. Then look back and you'll probably find that you either skipped one slot, or maybe skipped three. And that's throwing you off. Hopefully you catch it before getting to the end!

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[donhuff]

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Grab hold of the green wire and do it all again.

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Doesn't that look special!

You'll have to put an insulating sleeve of heat shrink on the "Y connection" to keep it from shorting out against the motor case or other wires.

And now you should understand what that "lump" with heat shrink on it is, that's in the rear end of all your Y wound motors.

This is the biggest reason why on some motors, there seems to be a lot of wasted space in the rear end of the case. Especially in some of the delta winds. The manufacture makes a case for lets say a 2Y which will have a lot of wires in each bundle, that makes up the "harness". Like with a NEU or a TP both of which tend to really fill up their motor with wire. Lets say a slot will hold 100plus strands of my wire. I know a 1515 will because I did one of those. So we have 50 strands of wire per bundle (because it's a 2 turn wind). And all three bundles come together and get soldered to make the Y connection. So you see it can be big. And this has to sit atop the pressed windings going through the stator.

So the mfg. makes a case that can hold all that for the 2Y motor. But then when you put an 8 delta wind in that same case, there is a lot of room left over because now the bundles only have 12 strands apiece, and no Y connection. And they aren't going to make a special case just for the shorter stack of the d winds, all the different winds get the same long case. Some "look" full, and some look, not so full.

[TRUCKPULL]

Don - If you don't have enough room in a motor can the "Y" connection be made on the outside? Like the SQUID motor.

Larry

[donhuff]

Yes Larry it can.

A big share of the Industrial motors have been doing that for a long time. They come with the leads for the coils hanging out of the case. And a wiring diagram showing how to wire them in the junction box. Some can be wire for different voltages and either delta or wye.

I use to make the connection stick straight out of one of the holes, before I made the molds so I could press it down against the windings. Now, I don't know for sure what effect (if any) running the connection say 6 inches outside the case would have on the kv. But I suspect that it would have little to no effect at all. Since electricity travels at the speed of light (186,000 miles per second) I think adding a few inches won't matter. I think It would change the resistance because of the longer wire.

[donhuff]

Ya know some rc motors do make the connection on the outside. Some of the lehners, the the skyrc protues https://www.skyrc.com/Power_System/Proteus_x524

[T.S.Davis]

This explains a lot Don. I opened up a baked 1527/.5y last night just to look. First......holy shiznit. That's a lot of crap load O' strands per bundle. I didn't count them but maybe 50? I don't know. It did the junction knot like you just showed for the WYE.

Fair to say a D wind is less hassle?

[donhuff]

Oh Yes. A Neu is overloaded with copper. Those that think copper doesn't make much difference, need to look in one of those motors. I don't know how they get it all in there. I can't get as much back in them as I take out of em.

The one I wound had like 104 or 108 strands per slot. Seems like 54 strands per bundle. It was a lot. And the Y connection was a monster with 162 strands in it. And you'll never get as much in them as they do at the factory. I don't know how they do it.

D is definitely less hassle. Thats why I prefer to do the D winds when I can. When weaving your first leg of coils on the Ys, you have the other two bundles dangling off the stator IN THE WAY getting tangled up from all the turning and twisting you have to do.

Plus, you dont have to heat the lye up that extra time, and strip the ends to make up the Y connection.

[ray schrauwen]

Terry,

I haven't covered it before, only said "do it". That's the disassembling of the wire in the stator. I know that seems like it should be an easy thin to do, but that's not so true if your trying to not bugger up the insulation on the stator.

I have a few motors coming in to be rewired, and I think there will be a 2000kv dyna in the batch. I'll try to get a few pics of the process to show some of the things that I have found to make it an easier job, that doesn't mess up that insulation. The 2000 is the hands down winner in the, easiest to "unwind" race. It's just the hardest one to get the stator out though, since the front end bell won't come off.

Heat is the main tool to make it easier because that softens the glue that they dip them in after they get them wound up at the factory. Here are the tools that I use, a heat gun, but a good hot hair drier would work too. A pair of channel locks to hold the hot stator, a pair of small side cutters or dikes, an awl is handy for lifting the wire away from the stator, and some acetone and wire tooth brush to clean it up with.

The AQ motor is probably the second easiest to take apart, but it's twice as hard as the 2000. The glue they use is harder and has to be a lot hotter to soften, and that makes it a lot easier to chip that insulation on the ends of the stator.

Then there's the SOB of the bunch, the dynamite 1500. It will not come apart without messing up the insulation. And I usually lose a few of the stator laminations because they get bent and twisted. So after getting all the wire out finally, I have to soak it in hot lye to remove ALL the stator insulation, and then recoat it.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]169132[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]169133[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]169134[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]169135[/ATTACH]

Here I have a stator ready to coat with powder, heat proof tape on the outside and teflon wrap inside the rotor hole. These are to keep the powder off of where I don't want it. That stuff is hard to send off. And the wrap on the hole, gives the powder something to rest against so that it will bridge the gap between the teeth and seal the slots off from the rotor hole. You have to do that to keep the wires from finding there way through that gap, and getting against the spinning rotor. That will make smoke real quickly!

I made up this small fluid bed to "dip" the stators in. It works suprisingly well to be made out of pvc and an aquarium air pump. The fluid bed makes the powder act like a liquid, so that when I dip it in, the powder "flows" into all the slots, and doesn't lump up.


I dip it a few times until I have a good build up, not to much or you reduce the size of the slots. Then it goes into the oven @ 400F for 15 to 20 minutes. And that makes a good hard slick finish on the stator.

Holy cow man, that's a bugger!

[T.S.Davis]

Don, what about wire pulling lubricant? Think that would be of any value or just a gigantic mess?

[T.S.Davis]

Don, so......the crazy 3 turn D wind with the CCW/CW pattern is basically the Dynamite 2k. How do we adjust the resulting kv with the turns? Like if I want 1700 or if I wanted 2500? I still have the one that came in at 2900kv. Haven't found a use for that nonsense yet but I'll think of something.

haha How do it know?

[ray schrauwen]

Don, what about wire pulling lubricant? Think that would be of any value or just a gigantic mess?

HA! Haha, hahahaa!! :)

[ray schrauwen]

Don, so......the crazy 3 turn D wind with the CCW/CW pattern is basically the Dynamite 2k. How do we adjust the resulting kv with the turns? Like if I want 1700 or if I wanted 2500? I still have the one that came in at 2900kv. Haven't found a use for that nonsense yet but I'll think of something.

haha How do it know?

Put it in a JAE 26 like I might try.

[T.S.Davis]

HA! Haha, hahahaa!! :)

I know it's funny but it's a real thing.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/IDEAL-32-oz...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

[TRUCKPULL]

Terry
That is for pulling jacketed wire,
Like house or industrial installations.

Larry

[fweasel]

and it is a damn mess. I hate it.